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C2 charging system problem

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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:00 PM
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Default C2 charging system problem

Perhaps my search wording is wrong The car is charging but the gauge does not indicate so. The 1.5 volt battery test indicates the gauge is not the fault.(swings to +40) Multimeter says I'm charging Gauge never moves from 0.. I know the horn relay is in that circuit but the horn works. having trouble getting to the source of the issue. Any ideas???
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:08 PM
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if it stays at zero that means its working as it should
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:20 PM
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Been a long time since I worked on a C2 As I recall, the meter does not show actual voltage or amps but a "differential". Right now, I know the battery is not fully charged so I think I should be showing + something indicating the system is being told from the regulator to charge the battery.. I'm fairly confident something is wrong.
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:23 PM
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Is this a change from previous operation?
Does the gauge move when you turn on the lights (all of them) at idle?
Does the gauge move when you blow the horn (at idle)?
Using a multimeter, what is the battery voltage with everything off?
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stefuel
Been a long time since I worked on a C2 As I recall, the meter does not show actual voltage or amps but a "differential". Right now, I know the battery is not fully charged so I think I should be showing + something indicating the system is being told from the regulator to charge the battery.. I'm fairly confident something is wrong.
a multimeter will tell you if something is wrong
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kellsdad
Is this a change from previous operation?
Does the gauge move when you turn on the lights (all of them) at idle?
Does the gauge move when you blow the horn (at idle)?
Using a multimeter, what is the battery voltage with everything off?
This car is new to me. I'm getting it ready for safety inspection for a friend. I am a retired mechanic with a fair amount of C2 and C3 experience. FYI the gauge never moves running or not.
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:36 PM
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Did you do the 1.5 volt battery test just to the gauge or from end to end? End to end, which is from the black/white wire at the horn relay to the black/white wire at the starter solenoid, will check the entire meter circuit. Be sure to disconnect the battery for that test.
.
Normal gauge behavior is slight or a bit more to the + side after cranking and the engine starts, gradual fade to zero. At idle with a bunch of stuff turned on (lights, wipers, heater blower) you may see it go as low as -20. You'll see a blip to + and fade to zero once you get moving.
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 04:46 PM
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Will a c2 amp gauge pulse with the turn signals like a c1 with a generator? Just curious as I’m looking at a charging issue today and noted that my 63 amp gauge doesn’t move with the turn signals blinking like my 62, but since the 63 has an alternator I was not sure if that might react faster.
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Avispa
Did you do the 1.5 volt battery test just to the gauge or from end to end? End to end, which is from the black/white wire at the horn relay to the black/white wire at the starter solenoid, will check the entire meter circuit. Be sure to disconnect the battery for that test.
.
Normal gauge behavior is slight or a bit more to the + side after cranking and the engine starts, gradual fade to zero. At idle with a bunch of stuff turned on (lights, wipers, heater blower) you may see it go as low as -20. You'll see a blip to + and fade to zero once you get moving.
I did the 1.5 volt battery test directly on the gauge. That's as far as I went with it earlier. That said, it's not the original 327. It's a later model 350 so I'm not sure if it even has the correct alternator. The wiring in the engine compartment is a mess of wire nuts and wires that go no where. Right now, it's starting and running off the ballast resistor. I haven't found the start (straight 12V wire) from the starter that should be connected to the coil and be providing 12V starting voltage.
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 07:20 PM
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When you start with a known configuration and a single problem, it's fairly easy to diagnose from afar. But with a butchered wiring harness, it's hard to know where to start, other than to suggest an entirely new wiring harness for safety's sake if nothing else.

Last edited by kellsdad; Oct 9, 2022 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 07:30 PM
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Well wire nuts do not belong anywhere close to a cars electrical system. It’s time to save headaches and just buy a new plug and play OEM harness. They are fairly easy to replace
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 09:14 PM
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With the car NOT running, did you turn on the headlights, hit the brakes, turn on the ignition and the heater fan. The battery gauge should go to the negative side with these loads, if the gauge has the correct connections.
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 04:43 PM
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It never moves car off with everything turned on Just another electrical gremlin to chase out
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 04:58 PM
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For the battery gauge to read charge or discharge, the key doesn't even need to be on. BUT, there must be a wire (black/white) connected to the red wires on the horn relay, AND a wire (black) connected to the RED positive wire on the starter solenoid. Those two wires connect to the battery gauge connections. They pass through the bulkhead connector.
There should be a pink wire running from the starter solenoid (R connector) to the positive side of the coil (same place the pink wire from the ballast connects).
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 05:02 PM
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The wires for each electrical side of the gage go thru the firewall bulkhead electrical connector block. If the electrical connectors in the block get corroded a bit, the gage will not respond.

You can:

1. Locate and disconnect the inputs to the amp gage back in the engine compartment and try the 1.5 volt battery test from that point.

2. Check resistance of each of the two leads from engine compartment back to gage connector in the dash.

3. Pull apart the firewall connector block that has these two wires running thru it and clean the terminal connections. There are two firewall connector blocks, but only one of them contains the amp gage wires.

Larry
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 06:23 PM
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is the car AC or not? if it's AC it has 2 fewer wires, the connector and black wire with the orange stripe are not there.
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 06:55 PM
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stefuel,
Here's a W.A.G. based on your description of the "modified" engine compartment. If it now has an internally regulated alternator and the wiring was changed to bypass the OE voltage regulator, that would be a good place to start. Folks sometimes take power from the new alternator directly to the buss at the horn relay, and that would bypass the BATT gauge.
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 08:18 PM
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I won't get a chance to look at it again until Wed. This is not a A/C car. Not even a nice one when new. Something else I noticed while adjusting up the new parking brakes. Unless it's totally blown out, it doesn't even have Posi. I don't ever recall working on a C2 that didn't have a posi rear end. Not saying they didn't make them, I just never saw one.
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by stefuel
I won't get a chance to look at it again until Wed. This is not a A/C car. Not even a nice one when new. Something else I noticed while adjusting up the new parking brakes. Unless it's totally blown out, it doesn't even have Posi. I don't ever recall working on a C2 that didn't have a posi rear end. Not saying they didn't make them, I just never saw one.
posi was an option. Some engines like the L88 required one. but not too many were made without one

Last edited by Nowhere Man; Oct 11, 2022 at 05:46 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
posi was an option. SHP engines required one. but not too many were made without one
Not so. My '67 L79 (SHP) has a 3:70 open differential from the factory. "AS" code. No cost option for the L79.
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