How do you know...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 912
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From: San Antonio TX
St. Jude Contributor '03 & '04
How do you know...
if you need to rebuild your trailing arms?
With my body off, I am getting the frame repaired, then will blast and paint it.
Also rebuilding the engine and the front end. The trans and clutch look good.
Also will put new fuel and brake lines.
Should I go ahead and do the trailing arms now? What tells you that they need it?
With my body off, I am getting the frame repaired, then will blast and paint it.
Also rebuilding the engine and the front end. The trans and clutch look good.
Also will put new fuel and brake lines.
Should I go ahead and do the trailing arms now? What tells you that they need it?
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Re: How do you know... (gary6696)
I would remove the half shafts and then check the spindle for excess end play and then spin hubs and if see you feel any roughness in the bearings.
But depending on mileage, I would do them at this time as a precaution.
But depending on mileage, I would do them at this time as a precaution.
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Re: How do you know... (gary6696)
Some other's may think or do differently, but why wouldn't you do it if the rest of the car is in need of rebuilding especially since you have it in the body off stage. Sometimes the spindle/bearing assembly won't tell you anything until you hear a grinding 200mi from home. You can check for excess verticle movement. Take the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positition and move it up and down, should not make much movement. The front bushing is probably dry rotted and should be replaced. If your arms have serious rust some repairs can be made, but can also be replaced. Approx. cost for rebuild $500-600. Trailing arms about $200 ea. My thoughts, and good luck.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 912
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From: San Antonio TX
St. Jude Contributor '03 & '04
Re: How do you know... (Mike Smith)
"Believe me - do it now while the body is off"
OK, I believe you. But I don't see why it would be difficult to drop the whole rearend with the body on. Am I missing something?
OK, I believe you. But I don't see why it would be difficult to drop the whole rearend with the body on. Am I missing something?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Washington Michigan
Re: How do you know... (gary6696)
'Cuz it's a lot easier to manage the huge pry bar you'll need to pop the crossmember loose, and you can remove the diff first (top diff bolts not accessible with the body on, you have to drop the crosssmember with the diff still hanging on it). Also much easier to get the front bushing bolts out if they're rusted to the bushing sleeves.
To rough-check the bearing clearance on the car, you're better off to grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock; that way the only bushing that can influence the "feel" is the cross-car slop in the front trailing arm bushing, which is rarely an issue. If you grab it at 12 and 6 o'clock, that lets the slop in the lower camber strut bushing and torsional slop in the front trailing arm bushing influence the "feel". The best way is to unbolt the half-shaft at the spindle flange and use a dial indicator mounted on the trailing arm to check axial play at the end of the spindle; Chevy Shop Manual specs call for .001"-.008", but that's pretty generous - they'll last a LOT longer set up at .001"-.003" :thumbs:
To rough-check the bearing clearance on the car, you're better off to grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock; that way the only bushing that can influence the "feel" is the cross-car slop in the front trailing arm bushing, which is rarely an issue. If you grab it at 12 and 6 o'clock, that lets the slop in the lower camber strut bushing and torsional slop in the front trailing arm bushing influence the "feel". The best way is to unbolt the half-shaft at the spindle flange and use a dial indicator mounted on the trailing arm to check axial play at the end of the spindle; Chevy Shop Manual specs call for .001"-.008", but that's pretty generous - they'll last a LOT longer set up at .001"-.003" :thumbs:
