So does it make a difference which type I install? If I use the uni set, do I still need the condenser on the coil pos term?

Thanks, Craig

 

the condenser on the coil that is separate is not part of the ignition system but part of the radio option. As for the uni set vs standard I can't answer.

 

Thank you. Appreciate your help.

 

but seeing how all the major manufactures made both for decades I don't think it makes a difference and you should replaces both at the same time

 

I always choose the two as separate components. No direct experience with the uni-style but seem to recall others saying they were not as reliable. That said, I don't like the set you have due to the lack of wire securing screw. If you get the separate condenser, it and the coil negative wire are secured here.

 

The highly knowledgeable folks here recommend, and I've had good results with, NAPA Echlin Part #: ECH CS7860 or Part #: ECH CS86. The condenser is Part #: ECH RR175.

Have you checked the negative coil wire, that goes to the points, along its full length for any chaffing of the insulation and for continuity?

 

You are astute to notice my existing points did not have a screw attachment. However, I had to pull the negative wire off with pliers! It was on tight. The new set I put in looks like the picture you added with a tightening screw except that it is a uni with the condenser included like the old set.

 

I visually inspected as much of the negative wire as I could see. And Yes, the continuity is good from end to end and all the way to ground on the engine. My probelm is not speratic as a bare ground wire might suggest. The problem currently is that I have NO spark at all from the distributor. So I went from a bad set of points with burnt contacts and at least some firing to new points and NO fire at all. Still trying to figure out why. I've got power to the coil and nothing out of the distributor. As I wrote this, I went out to the garage and tested my wire from the coil to the distributor. The test showed NO CONTINUITY. Somehow an 8" heavy wire got destroyed while doing all this new install and test. I'm still trying to believe it. So tomorrow I'll try to find a new coil -> distributor wire and install it to see what happens.

 

"And Now For Something Completely Different"

Perhaps, the/an O-ring in the carb has a slight leak or the float level is a bit high letting fuel pass. Enough fuel gets passed and the mixture goes rich for a moment until it burns out.

I had this happen to the secondaries of my Holley 600 dp (deteriorated o-ring) and it got so bad as to stall out the engine.

 

Check the accelerator pump for a good squirt.

 

Irregular Engine Missing?

For those who were following and contributing to my post on Engine Missing:

I thought I had this beat when I realized I had power to the coil but nothing coming from the distributor and I thought I'd check my coil main cable to the distributor for continuity. As I have been checking every other wire and getting logical results, I thought this test was a no-brainer. When I tested the coil out wire I got nothing. No results. Ammeter kept reading "1" as if I was not doing anything. After a while I finally got a reading of 1.78+, no where near zero so I thought OK, this wire is the cause of no spark. Bought a new coil to distributor wire and that did NOT solve the issue. Well, now what? So I decide to check the points setting again and found it right on .019. Then I noticed a second ground wire inside the distributor that I never knew was there. Didn't see it on my wiring diagrams, and still do not know where one end of it comes from. However, it was on a loose screw and not tightly connected. So I tightened it and instantly got an engine to fire. And run well. This must have been loosening up over time and I never noticed it since you can barely see it at all. This could have contributed to my point arcing and burning away the contacts (see pic). So over-all I still have my original AC Delco coil (< 1 yr old) but put in new points (with condenser included) and a new rotor. Problem finally solved. I still want to check for play in the distributor shaft and look closer at the lobes on the shaft that open the points. Mine seem less sharp than pictures I've seen. It's a number matching distributor but age is unknown so wear may be 100,000 miles (still not much).

I'm hoping this is the last of this issue and I can drive again with taking a tow strap with me. Thank you very much to everyone for offering help.

Craig

 

I'm getting an education from your problem, glad it's solved. Any chance of getting a pic or two of that second ground wire, just so I know what I should or shouldn't be seeing?

And thanks for the follow-up! It's frustrating when some guys ask about a difficult problem but never report back on what they finally find.

 

This second ground doesn't clearly show on wiring diagrams so I didn't know to look for it being a problem. Then I saw it on my distributor and noticed the loose connecting screw. I believe that loose connection was causing a short that was burning my points.

 

FWIW, to add to your experience that ground wire can work harden from heat and break from the repeated movement cycles of the points plate from the vacuum advance.

That's why is simple maintenance to inspect and clean these distributors when you encounter one that has never been serviced. Be careful with paint also as that can disrupt the ground path of the primary circuit.,

 

Congratulations. Admire your disciplined troubleshooting and repair. Thanks for the followup.