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I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what headers to install in my 1963 roadster. The engine is a 350 stroked to 383. It will have Edelbrock dual four's and Edelbrock E Street aluminum, D ported heads. It will have great torque for use on the street. I want something that will bolt on with minimum about of additional work. Based on my research I believe the long tube type header may create clearance issues with both the ground and engine compartment. So I've decided long tube headers are out. I'm not sure of this but I think there is a shorty header that is somewhere in between the block hugger and long header. I believe the shorty will provide more torque, which is what I want, than the block hugger. The D port has proved to create more of a challenge as they doesn't seem to be as readily available as the oval or round port. I've been told that certain oval and round port headers will work as well. I believe the preferred size of the primary tubes would be 1 5/8" and the collector 2 1/2". Does that sound right? It's all rather confusing. The bottom line is I've spent a lot of money so far and don't want to loose any potential torque/hp because I selected the wrong header. Does anyone have any suggestions on this issue? Thank you.
With a 383 you might get away with 1 3/4 primary tubes, but in any case headers will be an improvement over stock manifolds. 1 5/8 primary tubes are good. 2 1/2 collector should be ok, but 3 inch will work. You shouldn't have any fitment problems with long tubes or mid length tubes. I had long tubes on my 65 and that had a big block in it.
Do not waste your money on shorty's Summit long tube are an excellent choice I have a set on a 500hp stroker no clearance issues. I also have Hookers Summit are better
Yes it's the same guy and still looking for guidance. It's more technical than I thought. Years ago I took apart and reassembled GM motors with parts I picked up at junk yards and they ran fine. I knew where each bolt fit and how tight they should be. I wasn't concerned about HP or torque as long as it sounded cool and hauled ***. But now I'm old enough to where I don't want to crawl over and under cars. So now I had an engine built and am ready to have someone install it. I had it dyno'd and noticed that the headers used were nothing like what has to go in the engine compartment. I'm sure what ever header I wind up using will produce less torque and HP than as dyno'd. After spending the $'s on the engine I want to make sure I'm installing the right header. The heads are D ported so it makes sense that the headers should be D ported also. Some folks have said it doesn't matter as long as the header ports are bigger than the ports on the head. I don't know. So I'm basically looking for an expert to tell me what brand header, the size of primary tubes and collectors, etc.
Don't worry about a D port header....not as likely to find them. Larger than port is a good plan though. If the bottom of port is flat and provides a step where header is larger it actually creates a slight reversion dam to help during cam overlap
1-3/4" would be my choice for that engine size. If headers are designed properly the clearance will be fine. My buddy has a set of Hooker Super Comp headers on his '65 and they fit well. The cheaper ones might not. I had some Hedman's 1-5/8" once that seemed to hang too low as well as be too close to the idler arm.
Post #4 are the Summit headers I like the way they are made the fitment it better around the oil filter and the starter and there is more ground clearance. These are the Hookers cost more and not made as well
Yes it's the same guy and still looking for guidance. It's more technical than I thought. Years ago I took apart and reassembled GM motors with parts I picked up at junk yards and they ran fine. I knew where each bolt fit and how tight they should be. I wasn't concerned about HP or torque as long as it sounded cool and hauled ***. But now I'm old enough to where I don't want to crawl over and under cars. So now I had an engine built and am ready to have someone install it. I had it dyno'd and noticed that the headers used were nothing like what has to go in the engine compartment. I'm sure what ever header I wind up using will produce less torque and HP than as dyno'd. After spending the $'s on the engine I want to make sure I'm installing the right header. The heads are D ported so it makes sense that the headers should be D ported also. Some folks have said it doesn't matter as long as the header ports are bigger than the ports on the head. I don't know. So I'm basically looking for an expert to tell me what brand header, the size of primary tubes and collectors, etc.
There is no such person because there is no single right answer. It depends what you want.
If you are still talking about shorty headers you are already making a compromise in power (vs longtubes) so just buy what fits best. There may be some HP differences between your choices but it is highly doubtful your butt dyno will be able to tell the difference.
If are looking for max power, longtubes are the way to go and then you get into primary tube size, primary length, collector size, tri-y, 4 into 1, stepped, etc., etc. and you know what, unless it is a race car it really doesn't make all that much difference. The ideal combo will make more power than the non-ideal combo but you'd probably never know it just driving around the street.
When I was shopping headers for my Camaro (LS3) I spent A LOT of time researching. I ended up with Kooks 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 stepped because, after hours and hours of reading that's what seemed best for what I wanted. I like knowing I have a quality, theoretically optimal combination, but I could have probably saved myself a bunch of time and money by just slapping on a cheap set of Chinese 1-7/8 because, from a street performance perspective, the difference would be largely unnoticeable
So really the advice here is don't stress over it, but if you must stress there is a ton of info out there and Google is your friend.
Don't worry about a D port header....not as likely to find them. Larger than port is a good plan though. If the bottom of port is flat and provides a step where header is larger it actually creates a slight reversion dam to help during cam overlap
1-3/4" would be my choice for that engine size. If headers are designed properly the clearance will be fine. My buddy has a set of Hooker Super Comp headers on his '65 and they fit well. The cheaper ones might not. I had some Hedman's 1-5/8" once that seemed to hang too low as well as be too close to the idler arm.
JIM
Thank for your response. I've spent a lot of time researching and have determined that D ported headers aren't as critical as I thought. So you are right. Thanks again.
There is no such person because there is no single right answer. It depends what you want.
If you are still talking about shorty headers you are already making a compromise in power (vs longtubes) so just buy what fits best. There may be some HP differences between your choices but it is highly doubtful your butt dyno will be able to tell the difference.
If are looking for max power, longtubes are the way to go and then you get into primary tube size, primary length, collector size, tri-y, 4 into 1, stepped, etc., etc. and you know what, unless it is a race car it really doesn't make all that much difference. The ideal combo will make more power than the non-ideal combo but you'd probably never know it just driving around the street.
When I was shopping headers for my Camaro (LS3) I spent A LOT of time researching. I ended up with Kooks 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 stepped because, after hours and hours of reading that's what seemed best for what I wanted. I like knowing I have a quality, theoretically optimal combination, but I could have probably saved myself a bunch of time and money by just slapping on a cheap set of Chinese 1-7/8 because, from a street performance perspective, the difference would be largely unnoticeable
So really the advice here is don't stress over it, but if you must stress there is a ton of info out there and Google is your friend.
It sounds like I've been thru exactly the same experience as you. I did stress over it. I like to know what I'm getting. Like you, after spending hours on researching I've decided on what to order which is what was recommended to me in the first place.....but I had to convince myself it was the right way to go. I decided on Sanderson headers and am convinced they are the only way to go for me and how I will be driving the car. Thanks for your response.
I repeat this from an earlier thread: Here's the back story. My 63 coupe was a NOM modified hot rod when I bought it 44 years ago. About twenty years ago I took it all apart and rebuilt it with a clone ZZ430 engine (Vortec style heads). At the time the only headers with the correct D-port shape were from Sanderson. They were so-so. . . . A couple years ago I decided to change the spark plugs for the first time since the rebuild and found I couldn't access some without partially removing the headers. I also noted the headers were very close to my new Borgeson power steering box. So when I decided to refresh the engine compartment a few weeks ago, I started looking for new D-port headers. Again, Sanderson seemed the only brand and they were more than $600. I was resigned to cleaning up the old headers when I noticed a set of stainless steel headers complete with gaskets and all hardware on Ebay for LESS THAN $100 including shipping!. There was little information on them but the pics, but I decided to risk paying for return shipping in order to see them in person. I was astounded when they arrived. Here's what I found:
Excellent TIG welds everywhere
Very thick (3/8") flanges with clean edges
Holes for the hard-to-access 2nd and 5th mounting bolts enlarged to allow easy installation
Smoothly bent tubes with everything nicely polished
Port openings large enough for all the SBC exhaust port styles I know of including my D-ports
Outer tubes tucked in behind the center tubes providing more spacing between them and my steering box
Tubes shaped to allow all spark plugs to be accessed with normal tools with the headers installed
Excellent gaskets for both the headers and collectors
I would have paid name brand prices for these had I seen them elsewhere. The low price is just a bonus for me. Here are pics provided by the seller, and in my car.
I repeat this from an earlier thread: Here's the back story. My 63 coupe was a NOM modified hot rod when I bought it 44 years ago. About twenty years ago I took it all apart and rebuilt it with a clone ZZ430 engine (Vortec style heads). At the time the only headers with the correct D-port shape were from Sanderson. They were so-so. . . . A couple years ago I decided to change the spark plugs for the first time since the rebuild and found I couldn't access some without partially removing the headers. I also noted the headers were very close to my new Borgeson power steering box. So when I decided to refresh the engine compartment a few weeks ago, I started looking for new D-port headers. Again, Sanderson seemed the only brand and they were more than $600. I was resigned to cleaning up the old headers when I noticed a set of stainless steel headers complete with gaskets and all hardware on Ebay for LESS THAN $100 including shipping!. There was little information on them but the pics, but I decided to risk paying for return shipping in order to see them in person. I was astounded when they arrived. Here's what I found:
Excellent TIG welds everywhere
Very thick (3/8") flanges with clean edges
Holes for the hard-to-access 2nd and 5th mounting bolts enlarged to allow easy installation
Smoothly bent tubes with everything nicely polished
Port openings large enough for all the SBC exhaust port styles I know of including my D-ports
Outer tubes tucked in behind the center tubes providing more spacing between them and my steering box
Tubes shaped to allow all spark plugs to be accessed with normal tools with the headers installed
Excellent gaskets for both the headers and collectors
I would have paid name brand prices for these had I seen them elsewhere. The low price is just a bonus for me. Here are pics provided by the seller, and in my car.
I wish I'd read your response before ordering the Sanderson Headers. As much as I've driven with the old engine I probably won't have to change plugs for 10 years. I don't have power steering so maybe that will make a difference.
Headers
