Fuel Float
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 587
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
Fuel Float
Took the Ride of Shame this AM.
1964 327/365hp
Car running great then suddenly died.
Pulled air cleaner off and saw Holley Carburetor (2818) over fueling, spewing gas over the engine.
-Tried tapping fuel bowl
-Loosened needle valve. Was free movement in shaft
Seems to me float is stuck and need replacement
Appreciate any thoughts
1964 327/365hp
Car running great then suddenly died.
Pulled air cleaner off and saw Holley Carburetor (2818) over fueling, spewing gas over the engine.
-Tried tapping fuel bowl
-Loosened needle valve. Was free movement in shaft
Seems to me float is stuck and need replacement
Appreciate any thoughts
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 587
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
Le Mans Master
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From: New York New York
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Yes it is possible to remove the float bowl if it is the front one and they are reusable gaskets. The rear one is more difficult.
But first I would remove the needle and seat assembly and see if there is any debris on the seat, which is more common.
Clean it good, reinstall and set the float using the sight hole.
But first I would remove the needle and seat assembly and see if there is any debris on the seat, which is more common.
Clean it good, reinstall and set the float using the sight hole.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 587
Likes: 351
From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
Took the Ride of Shame this AM.
1964 327/365hp
Car running great then suddenly died.
Pulled air cleaner off and saw Holley Carburetor (2818) over fueling, spewing gas over the engine.
-Tried tapping fuel bowl
-Loosened needle valve. Was free movement in shaft
Seems to me float is stuck and need replacement
Appreciate any thoughts
1964 327/365hp
Car running great then suddenly died.
Pulled air cleaner off and saw Holley Carburetor (2818) over fueling, spewing gas over the engine.
-Tried tapping fuel bowl
-Loosened needle valve. Was free movement in shaft
Seems to me float is stuck and need replacement
Appreciate any thoughts
A. Any tips on removing the ‘C’ clamp holding float in place?
B. Understand fuel rails leak when reinstalled.
Likewise any tips to prevent leakage.
Again, thank you for the assistance
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,655
Likes: 3,665
From: Central Arkansas
Just use a pick or small screwdriver to pop off the c-clip. They usually are not tight and often can be replaced with fingers although a set of needle nose pliers with a death grip on it also works well to snap it back on.
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 587
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
[QUOTE=DansYellow66;1606609510]If by fuel rail you mean the fuel line between the bowls, they have a rubber o-ring seal. They come in rebuild kits but you can get them individually too.
Thanks Dan
On order
Thanks Dan
On order
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Le Mans Master
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From: Central Maryland
That's actually an E-clip, and as noted above is easily dislodged with a pick or tiny screwdriver. I would cover the bowl as much as possible with a rag to prevent that clip from taking a flying leap when removing it. They can be buggers to chase across a workbench or shop floor.
Live well,
SJW
Live well,
SJW
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 587
Likes: 351
From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
That's actually an E-clip, and as noted above is easily dislodged with a pick or tiny screwdriver. I would cover the bowl as much as possible with a rag to prevent that clip from taking a flying leap when removing it. They can be buggers to chase across a workbench or shop floor.
Live well,
SJW
Live well,
SJW
In anticipation of that clip taking a flyer, I removed the bowl and ordered an extra clip from Holley.
Frustrating to have experienced such a severe leak. Fuel was gushing from the secondaries.
Ironically I had replaced that needle valve 2 years ago.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 21,374
Likes: 1,004
From: Various places in Southern California.
That's actually an E-clip, and as noted above is easily dislodged with a pick or tiny screwdriver. I would cover the bowl as much as possible with a rag to prevent that clip from taking a flying leap when removing it. They can be buggers to chase across a workbench or shop floor.
Live well,
SJW
Live well,
SJW
I've always called them "Geezus" clips because that's what you say when they shoot across the garage.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,093
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From: WV
I just rebuilt a Holley and the car was running great! Saturday after it sat for a few hours it wouldn’t start. After I finally got it started I noticed the weep hole on the secondary was leaking just a tad of fuel.
I adjusted the float on the front and back bowls and had it running good with both weep hole plugs out and had the level adjusted right to the bottom of the weep holes. Put the plugs in, **** it off and came back an hour later and the secondary was leaking again! Removed the weep hole plug and fuel came running out.
So I removed the bowl to check the float, put it back on, but like you said that fuel rod didn’t seat fully and leaked. Removed the bowl again, got the fuel rod seated, put the bowl on and snapped the last bowl bolt in the main body of the carb. Not a fun day!
I did get the bolt out but I also took the opportunity to buy a better carburetor, I will rebuild this one and have an extra.
I adjusted the float on the front and back bowls and had it running good with both weep hole plugs out and had the level adjusted right to the bottom of the weep holes. Put the plugs in, **** it off and came back an hour later and the secondary was leaking again! Removed the weep hole plug and fuel came running out.
So I removed the bowl to check the float, put it back on, but like you said that fuel rod didn’t seat fully and leaked. Removed the bowl again, got the fuel rod seated, put the bowl on and snapped the last bowl bolt in the main body of the carb. Not a fun day!
I did get the bolt out but I also took the opportunity to buy a better carburetor, I will rebuild this one and have an extra.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
I just rebuilt a Holley and the car was running great! Saturday after it sat for a few hours it wouldn’t start. After I finally got it started I noticed the weep hole on the secondary was leaking just a tad of fuel.
I adjusted the float on the front and back bowls and had it running good with both weep hole plugs out and had the level adjusted right to the bottom of the weep holes. Put the plugs in, **** it off and came back an hour later and the secondary was leaking again! Removed the weep hole plug and fuel came running out.
So I removed the bowl to check the float, put it back on, but like you said that fuel rod didn’t seat fully and leaked. Removed the bowl again, got the fuel rod seated, put the bowl on and snapped the last bowl bolt in the main body of the carb. Not a fun day!
I did get the bolt out but I also took the opportunity to buy a better carburetor, I will rebuild this one and have an extra.
I adjusted the float on the front and back bowls and had it running good with both weep hole plugs out and had the level adjusted right to the bottom of the weep holes. Put the plugs in, **** it off and came back an hour later and the secondary was leaking again! Removed the weep hole plug and fuel came running out.
So I removed the bowl to check the float, put it back on, but like you said that fuel rod didn’t seat fully and leaked. Removed the bowl again, got the fuel rod seated, put the bowl on and snapped the last bowl bolt in the main body of the carb. Not a fun day!
I did get the bolt out but I also took the opportunity to buy a better carburetor, I will rebuild this one and have an extra.
I am frustrated beyond belief with my Holley, model 2818-1 built 1967. The carb was rebuilt by a well known carburetor service in NH several years ago. (Hobbs)
Since then, I have experienced difficulty with both needle valves suddenly leaking.
Sunday was horrific. Gas gushing out of the secondaries all over a hot engine. I plan to replace
Needle and seat
Float, float spring
Bowl gasket
’O’ rings for fuel transfer line.
Next move is to buy a new carburetor, most likely non Holley.
What brand did you purchase?
Interestingly, Sunday was the first breakdown in 53 years of ownership
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,093
Likes: 757
From: WV
Jason
I am frustrated beyond belief with my Holley, model 2818-1 built 1967. The carb was rebuilt by a well known carburetor service in NH several years ago. (Hobbs)
Since then, I have experienced difficulty with both needle valves suddenly leaking.
Sunday was horrific. Gas gushing out of the secondaries all over a hot engine. I plan to replace
Needle and seat
Float, float spring
Bowl gasket
’O’ rings for fuel transfer line.
Next move is to buy a new carburetor, most likely non Holley.
What brand did you purchase?
Interestingly, Sunday was the first breakdown in 53 years of ownership
I am frustrated beyond belief with my Holley, model 2818-1 built 1967. The carb was rebuilt by a well known carburetor service in NH several years ago. (Hobbs)
Since then, I have experienced difficulty with both needle valves suddenly leaking.
Sunday was horrific. Gas gushing out of the secondaries all over a hot engine. I plan to replace
Needle and seat
Float, float spring
Bowl gasket
’O’ rings for fuel transfer line.
Next move is to buy a new carburetor, most likely non Holley.
What brand did you purchase?
Interestingly, Sunday was the first breakdown in 53 years of ownership
You might want to check out this video.
I basically followed this video step by step and successfully rebuilt mine but I must have got the float level off just a bit.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,655
Likes: 3,665
From: Central Arkansas
I’m a little embarrassed that Tbarb had to point this out to me, but these hard plastic (nylon) bowl gaskets for the fuel bowl screws are terrible and highly prone to leak, unfortunately that’s what you get in a lot of rebuild kits. The older style composite (paper) gaskets are far more resistant to leaks. Here is one source but googling around you might find a cheaper price. You can get by with just using them on the two lower bowl screws as the upper ones don’t have fuel standing against them.
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
When removing the ‘E’ clip from the float, the pin on which the float pivots came out as well.
Does it merely push back in, or do I now have a problem with the bowl?
Thank you for your assistance
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 21,374
Likes: 1,004
From: Various places in Southern California.
What sort of fuel filtration do you have ahead of the carb? I note that lots of classic car owners have added small in-line filters to the gas lines. I assume this is because of the risk of dirt and debris causing problems.
I'm not a fan of Holleys, but I wouldn't blame the carb or rebuilder for needle valve problems. I've had issues with all brands of carbs over the years.
I'm not a fan of Holleys, but I wouldn't blame the carb or rebuilder for needle valve problems. I've had issues with all brands of carbs over the years.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 587
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From: Plymouth MA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified 2020
What sort of fuel filtration do you have ahead of the carb? I note that lots of classic car owners have added small in-line filters to the gas lines. I assume this is because of the risk of dirt and debris causing problems.
I'm not a fan of Holleys, but I wouldn't blame the carb or rebuilder for needle valve problems. I've had issues with all brands of carbs over the years.
I'm not a fan of Holleys, but I wouldn't blame the carb or rebuilder for needle valve problems. I've had issues with all brands of carbs over the years.
My fuel filter is the original style AC GF 90 in line canister.
My principal concern now relates to the pin on which the fuel float pivots . It came out when I attempted to remove the ‘e’ clip .
Can it merely be pressed back in, or am I in need of a new bowl?