I was trying to figure out if my clutch fan was not engaging because it was slightly overheating at idle. Well, it was not the clutch fan. The coolant looked like a chocolate malt. There is no coolant in the oil pan. Its a 327 with 461X heads. I started it up and could see bubbles instantly in the reservoir. I will get the heads checked too make sure the deck surfaces is not warped. Hopefully, only a new set of intake, exhaust and head gaskets will fix the problem. I am crossing my fingers and toes that the block is not cracked. The way, I could see it bubble so fast lets me think its a blown head gasket. I guess not a bad deal if the heads were cracked. It gives me an opportunely to buy some of those fancy trick flow double hump heads. #3 plug looked like where the problem is...

This week, I am going to tear down the top end. It been good for last 13 years. I guess my gear slamming took its toll...

 

Well, that bites! Hope it's relatively easy and inexpensive. (Yeah, as if either of those is likely! )

 

A few months ago, I had to replace the water pump and clutch fan because the bearing in the water pump had gone out. I think the problem happened when that event occurred. It does not heat up when I am just driving. It even stays under 180 degrees. It just started so I think I caught it at the early stages. I noticed that the temperature climb right after a long drive. It would not idle correctly and wanted to shut off. I got it home then ran through my usual checks. I left the coolant alone since it was way too hot. The clutch fan was under warranty so I decided to replace it since I could not tell if it was engaging or not. That's when I checked the coolant...

Right when its that time of the year for some good car events. Oh well! I just got my son's 74 L82 corvette running well. No leaks with this corvette. His corvette is running strong. Now, I guess the 62 was just jealous with all that work being done.

 

Keep those ‘62’s running!😀

 

Guess there is no need to pressurize the radiator and listen in the plug holes to verify the cylinder if your #3 plug is cleaner than all of the others.
Cars are still cheaper than women and you can park/ignore the car for a while and not pay the consequences. Hope it is the head gasket.

 

Yeah, I could tell right off the bat by looking at #3. I will start the tear down. I really think its a head gasket because of the way it was happening but only a tear down will tell the truth. In the meantime, I sprayed down the cylinders on that side with WD40.

 

If it is any solace, I have had my few cracked blocks over the years. You are correct... at least for me the engine needed to get somewhat warm before the bubbles were in the radiator and the oil in the pan turned to mayonnaise

 

Beware of bearing problems from lack of lubrication. Water in the oil is very hard on bearing surfaces.

 

Yeah, I thought about that too. I did not see any water real amount of water in the oil. I will take a look at the bearings too.

 

Head gaskets usually fail soon after an overheat issue. When things get hot the heads expand first and crush the head gasket. Not too many starts later the head gasket fails due to the crush from overheat. If the heads are not warped you can normally go with new gaskets and be good. Or go with your desired new heads and be happy!

 

Do your radiator hoses blow up like a balloon. Almost instantly go to high pressure? Have you tried a radiator pressure testing gauge. If it holds it not a head gasket. If not lits eaking somewhere.

 

Yeah, I am going to take the heads in this Friday and see if the heads are warped. If so then I will have to figure out the next step.

 

Have them magniflux or PT the head for cracks as these old Chevy heads would crack between the intake and exhaust valves. Also, if you or someone had hardened seats installed, you may have one coming loose or just leaking. The shop may want to pressure test the head to find the leak which is common also instead of doing the NDE.

 

OK, call me un educated, please explain NDE. Not a term I know. Thanks
Mark

 

Same here...

 

I apologize, after 50 years in engineering and welding engineering and inspection and related fields (ASME, AWS, ANSI). I guess I am like the people that text stuff that I don't understand and fail to spell it out. So:
NDE is Non-Destructive Testing or Evaluation of anything really. For iron or steel in the welding industry, the following are common tests:
The tests include PT which is Liquid Penetrate Testing using a light weigh oil applied to the surface (A heated oil will work best) and then the oil is wiped off after a dwell time to let the oil enter any cracks. Then, a developer, similar to talc powder with a pink dye, is dusted over the surface and gently blown off. If there is a crack, the developer will be held by the oil remaining in the crack.
MT which is Magnetic Particle Testing, which uses an electromagnet to induce and magnetic field in the metal. Fine metal particles are dusted on the surface between the magnet probes and if there is a crack, the particles will align along the crack.
RT which is radiography, an X-ray of the metal using a film just like in the doctor's office. They may have digital X-rays now like most medical facilities.
For the Redneck, a light oil like clock oil 5wt or so can be used and a powder like the colored face powder your significant other may use can be substituted for the professional PT penetrate oil and developer.

Ron

PS, I am not responsible if she catches you stealing her expensive powder. You are on your own.

 

I also worked in the NDT field early in my career . I may have missed it but did not see UT. Ultrasonic Testing in your response. We used a shear wave to evaluate structural steel and large welds in high-rise construction in San Francisco and the fabrication shops in the area.
My introduction MT for container crane construction for the port of Oakland . Dirty nasty and hot work .
The UT and dye/penetrant was used for nonferrous metal.

 

There are really talented people on this forum, thanks for the training.
Mark

 

 

I am lucky to remember 3 out of 4 these days. Yes, UT was used mostly to check for subsurface discontinuities, (porosity, slag inclusions, etc.) and material thickness, along with RT as I recall now. I doubt any automotive shop would have this type of equipment, especially the source for RT.
Thanks for filling in my omissions.