Spent the past couple days gutting the interior and doors......first time and I gotta hope the last!. Done several metal cars but this one being glass, being tight, being unconventional, just makes it a bit not fun. It'll get better, I promise. So, after a couple bits of research it seems most everyone is popping those rivets and removing the dash structure, which I have no problem with, but a few were seemingly convinced it's standard to reskin the thing?? Mine really shows well, and I'm a big proponent of saving anything oem that I can, and this piece is a major piece.
What are your thoughts? I've also committed to all new wiring after noticing a couple splices, some hard insulation and even a bit of melt on the ignition switch....could have dogged a bullet there. Another thing, and there's gonna be a lot, is the gauges, the lower readouts are a bit rusty colored while the main speedo and tach are just slightly faded. I really don't mind the faded, but am leaning towards finding oem used to replace the ugly faces of the oil and temp. Clock also looks a bit faded, but I'm good with that also. I do want to get it back working.
This is a 425 coupe, so I don't plan on scrimping but I also won't likely be looking to show, just put it back on the street because we need more on the road!

 

You are committed don't stop make it pretty

 

@nutt Make everything pretty or you'll kick yourself later.

 

Nutt - are you considering pulling the fiberglas dash housing because one or both dash pads are in need of reskinning or just to be thorough? In all the midyears I've worked over, only one really needed to have the entire dash housing pulled and that was due to a PO having installed a non-vertical radio in place of the original and I needed to patch the extra holes. If you pads are acceptable, the amount of teardown you have gotten to now should be fine.
On to the instrument cluster, it's such a pain to pull it out, you will want to go through it all now. The two main gauges have brand new faces available new for reasonable prices. Ive only had to replace one of the small gauges and I replaced the entire gauge...ammeter. I dont know if the small gauge faces are available if the gauge themselves are still functional.
The instrument cluster, next to the steering wheel, is the part youll be staring at 'each and every time' you get behind the wheel, so you'll really enjoy the view if you refurbish it all now.
Keep us posted on your progress, always like seeing an L72 brought back to its former glory.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

 

 

Removing the fiberglass dash frame piece will give you more access and make it easier to remove/ replace the padded dash pieces and repaint the fiberglass. It makes access to the padded dash clips easier. But it’s not absolutely necessary. I replaced my dash pads with the frame in place, repainted the frame with a detail gun in place, installed new harness, rebuilt heater box, rebuilt pedal box, and etc. But in the end I realized I would have made life easier for myself by popping the entire assembly out. Fortunately I was younger then so I endured.

 

You're not color changing the interior, correct?
Is this a time to consider going through the wiper motor and transmission? I think it is.

 

You're just a few simple steps away from removing the entire dash out. I would (and did), drill out those rivits and take the entire dash out. It definitely makes the replacement of pads, as well as access to everything up there, a whole lot easier.

Pat

 

Okay, it's waking time for me, being recently retired and I like the range of opinions here. Appreciate that! My thoughts on any car I've done, mostly chevelles.....the repop stuff ALWAYS leaves me a bit remorseful that I couldn't find perfect or next to perfect oem stuff, beings if it's visible, it's detectable as aftermarket. Maybe that's not the case as much with the C2 stuff???
The only things I've purchased so far are the tailpanel bling and the front blinker assemblys.....all are top notch and I'm impressed, much like "trimparts" stuff. Still detectable to the informed, but nice. Those very minor differences I'm okay with IF i can't repair or restore my vintage parts.to perfect condition.
This dash is without flaws except it may be a slight bit "flattened" in color and texture from hand rubbing and sun. Since I do my own paint and body, I'll have to mask it every stage, which is a consideration also. Access to firewall matt, clean-up, and roughing in the new harness are lesser concerns.
Side note....I've seen the "ears" of dash module that are riveted to the a-pillars painted dash color, and plenty pics of them painted body color. I have an AIM, and "Technical Guide" but haven't purchased the NCRS judging manual......but will. My point....I haven't educated myself on the AO Smith means of assembly, but will. Just a bit of cheating by asking the forum beforehand. Also again.........can those big dash rivets be EXACTLY duplicated, they certainly look like hardware store variety 3/16" rivets???

 

You mite as well pull the whole thing at this point it would be easier to replace the dash pads. And replace all the gauges. And put the wiring harness on the back of the cluster before installing in dash


This pic is just showing how nice new gauges are and the wiring is attached to the cluster. But you can't install like this. Oh yeah do your self a favor and put in a volt meter not the worthless battery gauge

 

If the interior and exterior are the same color i.e. red/red, then the rivets are unpainted and remain black. Repos are readily available from say ZIP. If the body color differs from the interior i.e. red/black, the ears and rivets are painted body color.

And I still wonder why. The body was painted less interior by GM. So they had to paint those ears after assembly at some point. Wondering exactly when, where and how?

 

So, the rivets were black? Way in the future for me, but I always like to know my methods of reinstall before I remove.

 

Here is my 64. New rivets, old paint on ears, yet to be repainted body color.

 

Just clean and redye the pads if they’re in good condition. The Corvette vendors have the right color dyes.

 

Yep, that's the option I hadn't mentioned yet, but I've been successful doing that on several dash pads. Again, I was basing this on chevelle dash pads, any year, they just don't offer anything that's even close to perfect. I still haven't heard testimony of oem vs. repop side by side in quality, grain, and color......and fitment.

 

if the interior color matched the exterior color then the rivets where left natural that is black. if the interior was a contrasting color then that dash tab and rivets would be painted body color. St Louis and A O Smith did that towards the end of the line in repair paint booth

 

I second the comment to pull the wiper motor and transmission at least to clean them up and check them. Pulling the wiper motor with the dash in place isn't the most fun thing to do.

 

I'm ready to put my dash in with new pads, a restored cluster, new harness, and an aftermarket radio already installed. Any advice on putting it in place? Anything to avoid or do? How does the harness thread thru? I basically have the entire thing together with the far-left end of the harness with the fuse block hanging down and the far-right end of the harness hanging down too. The speedometer and tach cables are just poking thru the firewall ready to go. Trying to avoid mistakes that would make me take it out again.

 

Don't see a radio?? I would definitely restore/refinish the speaker grill first. Then re-install the speaker grill along with the speaker...way easier before all the other "stuff" gets in the way.

 

That's not mine it's Nutts. This is mine.