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I made a puller to pull the bushings out. Once both are removed, you can remove the shaft / bar. As you are going to replace the bushings, you can cut them out with an air chisel / saw / etc. You may want to consider Moog offset upper control arm shafts to obtain a little more caster and camber if you are needing some more with radial tires
Just a side note: On step 13 or 19, your A arms may or most likely do have double openings on both sides and you need to support that opening with an approx 1 1/4" size of nut so you don't collapse the two together when you press the fitting back in. Another important step, is to NOT powder coat the bushing openings because that extra material makes a big difference on clearances anywhere on the car.
Cheers,
John
Remove the end bolts and then see if you can spin the shafts by hand. This will give you an idea of how difficult the removal will be. Everything else is covered above but I will reinforce the point about ensuring you take great care not to damage or compress the bushing mounting ears. Good luck!
There is a (Brothers) video on youtube on rebuilding a squarebpdu chevy lower a arm. It was very helpful in rebuilding my daughters Silverado C 10 . It is very similar to your project. This is not a project for the timed. A little coke and rum will go a long way.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
That's a very old version of my paper - for a current revision with photos in it, send me an e-mail request for the Front End Rebuild Paper.
Lars V8FastCars@msn.com
That's a very old version of my paper - for a current revision with photos in it, send me an e-mail request for the Front End Rebuild Paper.
Lars V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars, Always enjoy your post, you may have addressed this question in the past, but your front end article on coil spring alignment states to use the lower c/arm hole for the alignment of the coil spring, I thought withC2 Corvettes we used the hole in the upper frame pocket for spring alignment? Easy on that alcohol Bro:-)..