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Hello. I’m looking to buy this 427 block below, but before I do I am asking the machine shop to magnaflux and hot tank this engine. The casting numbers look a bit off, but some builders tell me it looks fine. I figure if it is counterfeit the numbers will melt away when it’s hot tanked. If they don’t melt, then it’s probably legit. All thoughts and comments are appreciated.
Yeah, the correct numbers engine game is dicey. I'm .040 over, two cylinders sleeved, decked and line bored so much the pistons are .017 out of the hole. Had a hairline crack in the cam tunnel welded up, and all these years later, there's probably a hairline crack near the oil pressure gauge fitting. But by golly it's a correct 942 block with a good casting date. Pffftttt! It's still a NOM car. The purists have hone off the rails. Now they have a new term for NOM cars with otherwise correct engines, "not born with."
If I had to do it over, I woulda just bought a nice 454 crate motor and dressed it up with correct looking stuff.
Yeah, the correct numbers engine game is dicey. I'm .040 over, two cylinders sleeved, decked and line bored so much the pistons are .017 out of the hole. Had a hairline crack in the cam tunnel welded up, and all these years later, there's probably a hairline crack near the oil pressure gauge fitting. But by golly it's a correct 942 block with a good casting date. Pffftttt! It's still a NOM car. The purists have hone off the rails. Now they have a new term for NOM cars with otherwise correct engines, "not born with."
If I had to do it over, I woulda just bought a nice 454 crate motor and dressed it up with correct looking stuff.
I agree with you. Mine is a 68 427 out of an Impala SS 427. Hydraulic cam 2bolt 390hp.It has been warmed over with a cam and it has a Richmond 6spd behind it with 3:55's. Runs pretty good for what it is but the car was originally a 327. NOM or NBW it still is now a 427 that I dressed up to look the part of a factory install. Living the dream......
I understand both views, but my car is 95% correct numbers. I thought my engine was original, but turns out it was a counterfeit and fooled many people. So now I’m buying a date correct block to match my car. It won’t be the “born with engine”, but I’m too far in to restomod it or put anything else in it. IMO.
You're going about verifying the casting numbers the right way. If they're molded out of JB Weld or some other not cast iron material they should flake off just like you said. .040 over is workable. If you need to go to .060, the block will still live a long, healthy life.
I wasn't suggesting resto mod for a mostly correct car, just that any old Mk IV 4 bolt main block will do the job, cost a whole lot less, and not send you to drinking if you put a rod through the side. Other than the casting numbers, they're all identical on the outside. It's not at all clear to me that a correct casting number, casting date, but not original motor adds enough value to the car to take the risk. Correct number and date parts are pricey, frequently not usable without major repairs, and as you already found out are often fraudulent.
I've got a 68 Corvette 427 that has had the motor swapped out years ago for a 454. The car is all original including the top except for the motor...
I'm thinking about trying to find a correct numbers matching 427 to put back into it to make it as close to original as possible. For some reason, I
think that they stamped the VIN on the blocks at the time which would negate having a true numbers matching car. Is that correct?
Any ideas on where to look for a correct 427 engine?
I've got a 68 Corvette 427 that has had the motor swapped out years ago for a 454. The car is all original including the top except for the motor...
I'm thinking about trying to find a correct numbers matching 427 to put back into it to make it as close to original as possible. For some reason, I
think that they stamped the VIN on the blocks at the time which would negate having a true numbers matching car. Is that correct?
Any ideas on where to look for a correct 427 engine?
thanks!
Raney
Raney,
You are correct that you won’t have a born with engine, but a number and date correct is still a good move. In my case, NCRS awards 350 points for the correct block with vin and Engine plant stamp, plus broach marks. The block i bought had been decked, so I will lose 25 for no VIN, 25 for no engine plant, and 38 for no broach marks. 88 total points.
If you are not going to have your car judged and you aren’t going to try and make it 90%+ numbers correct, I don’t think I’d chase down a date/numbers correct engine. Just my personal opinion.
I found two blocks in my 6 week search. One block I found on EBAY from a very reputable engine building company called Ross Racing. Jeff was top-notch to work with, honest and helpful. Tomorrow I will finish building my motor and probably install it. I had the engine sonic tested and it was exactly as Jeff said.
The other block I found was from a local machine shop here in Tucson. It was truly a diamond in the rough. I would look on EBay, bring a trailer.com, and start calling machine shops. I plan to build the other engine I have, and it will be all date correct with a clean pad. You could also post a WTB on this site too?
I've got a 68 Corvette 427 that has had the motor swapped out years ago for a 454. The car is all original including the top except for the motor...
I'm thinking about trying to find a correct numbers matching 427 to put back into it to make it as close to original as possible. For some reason, I
think that they stamped the VIN on the blocks at the time which would negate having a true numbers matching car. Is that correct?
Any ideas on where to look for a correct 427 engine?
thanks!
Raney
If your car started its life on the west coast you may find your block in Idaho at this up coming auction:
427 Casting number
