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I am looking at this block to replace my blown engine.
I am not having a lot of luck so far figuring out what it is out of, year, etc. Worried if it has the opening for the road draft tube (I want to use the finned aluminum type).for pcv.
Any help on identification and suggestions on suitability for use for my rebuild is appreciated. My plan is correct looking 327, look, sound, and perform like original higher hp 340 hp plus, carb set up with practical upgrades where they make sense.
The partial VIN shows a D for Dorvaville GA. assembly plant, they built Impalas there, so the H makes sense, although it should have another letter following it. It would have been a 250 or possibly 275 hp 327.
If the block is in good condition, it should work fine for you, as it should have the draft tube hole, etc. Of course you'd want to check a lot of things about it before buying it....like any other used part..
The partial VIN shows a D for Dorvaville GA. assembly plant, they built Impalas there, so the H makes sense, although it should have another letter following it. It would have been a 250 or possibly 275 hp 327.
If the block is in good condition, it should work fine for you, as it should have the draft tube hole, etc. Of course you'd want to check a lot of things about it before buying it....like any other used part..
Most definitely, thanks.
I agree it is a D for Doraville. Which is consistent with what they told me (Impala).
The year had me confused. I think the H is HM. It is hard to see in pictures. I saw HM for both a 65 and 68. So if it is a 68 I was not sure if there was still a draft tube hole.
If you don't have the block to look at, get more pictures of it, showing the entire block from a few different angles, if possible. But that casting number block should have the hole in back. That was the last of the engines that had it.
Here's a few pics of my 68 L79 block (Chevelle L79). In 68 they still had the casting where the road draft tube used to be but in 68 it was not open anymore.
Are you planning on having the block decked to remove the numbers? The T indicates it's a Tonawanda small block of which none were installed in Corvettes, so correct looking would be an F for Flint engine plant. I'd remove the stampings altogether.
If you don't have the block to look at, get more pictures of it, showing the entire block from a few different angles, if possible. But that casting number block should have the hole in back. That was the last of the engines that had it.
Are you planning on having the block decked to remove the numbers? The T indicates it's a Tonawanda small block of which none were installed in Corvettes, so correct looking would be an F for Flint engine plant. I'd remove the stampings altogether.
Good question. I recall forum discussions on the ability to deck/not deck when rebuilding. I am not a numbers guy and I don't show it. Its a nice driver and I drive it a lot (too much). The last one (65 impala block) that was in there did not have the numbers touched when I bought it, and on the ill-fated rebuild the guy slightly decked the numbers when machining it but not completely. That was a Flint block. So he didn't care one way or another and I was pretty much ambivalent. Probably the same here. I do like the 327 and try to stay as correct as practical appearance wise. The numbers I am not sure. Maybe if I determine the block is not otherwise identifiable but it sure looks different already appearance wise from my old one. Haven't had a good look yet. Think its a large journal.
Here's a few pics of my 68 L79 block (Chevelle L79). In 68 they still had the casting where the road draft tube used to be but in 68 it was not open anymore.
I agree with Factiod, it looks like "HM" to me too, a 68 327/250 with a Turbo Hydro in a passenger car (except Corvette). The "660" was a new block casting used in 68 only, so I'm pretty sure it won't have the opening for a road draft tube, and probably not even the boss for it.
"HM" was also used for the 65 Corvette 327/365 and the 69 passenger car 350/250, but the casting number identifies it as a 68 engine.
I agree with Factiod, it looks like "HM" to me too, a 68 327/250 with a Turbo Hydro in a passenger car (except Corvette). The "660" was a new block casting used in 68 only, so I'm pretty sure it won't have the opening for a road draft tube, and probably not even the boss for it.
"HM" was also used for the 65 Corvette 327/365 and the 69 passenger car 350/250, but the casting number identifies it as a 68 engine.
If you don't have the block to look at, get more pictures of it, showing the entire block from a few different angles, if possible. But that casting number block should have the hole in back. That was the last of the engines that had it.
The last block to have the rear crankcase vent provision was casting 3933180, this is a large journal 327 used through 1969.
The last block to have the rear crankcase vent provision was casting 3933180, this is a large journal 327 used through 1969.
Thanks. This is consistent with what my friend who found it for me said (large journal). And what it looks like as far as rear crankcase provision.
Now, will I still be able to keep finned valve covers. Not liking any of the options I am finding so far. Still researching whether large vs small journal will matter to me. I wanted 6500 rpm and small journal but sounds like this will be going in a different direction with this block.
Thanks. This is consistent with what my friend who found it for me said (large journal). And what it looks like as far as rear crankcase provision.
Now, will I still be able to keep finned valve covers. Not liking any of the options I am finding so far. Still researching whether large vs small journal will matter to me. I wanted 6500 rpm and small journal but sounds like this will be going in a different direction with this block.
Since you are building an engine make life easy and go large journal as blocks are much easier to find and with a large journal you can build a 383. A 383 rotating kit will come with all the hard parts ready to go to include new rods. You could use a 400 block also but scarcity and virginity will be a factor. Heck even the 350 is getting that way. Either way the crankcase ventilation will need to be addressed. You can dress the engine as an LT1 or you can plumb the engine for the ventilation either by drilling out the rear china wall or through the rear of the intake manifold and add an oil control baffle to keep from sucking oil. This task probable reads as being a lot harder than it is. Reach out to DZ Auto for further info as he used a 400 and drilled out the rear china wall. Remember the oil dipstick location when sourcing a block as that may influence you oil pan choice. If you want to use a small journal block with a windage tray you will need (1) to find the correct main bolts which even used are pricey or (2) shorten the large journal main bolts or (3) use aftermarket main studs and tray or (4) use the Z28 oil pan and tray. All four options have a downside, (1) price/availability, (2) a somewhat increased distance from crank, (3) line hone the block and research the studs and tray that will work with the block, (4) $$$$
I do not know about the machining availability in you area of the country but here in my town only two shops still bore a block and rework heads. Crankshaft grinding cost is $150, has to be sent out to Denver 65 miles away, and only one shop does it so the wait can be 3 weeks or longer. When the costs of travel, grinding, and balancing are added up along with a possible long wait the kit maybe the way to go.
I can't believe these old 327s are hard to find. I personally have a 64, 65, 66, and 68 laying around that get only second glances from the LS crowd and only laughs from the BB boys. Also, the shipping to anywhere is a deal breaker in most cases. Machine work has gone crazy also, so most are springing for aluminum heads.
If you are dead set on a pre 1968 block and heads, an advertisement in Craig's List or Facebook could probably give you the engine you want.
Since you are building an engine make life easy and go large journal as blocks are much easier to find and with a large journal you can build a 383. A 383 rotating kit will come with all the hard parts ready to go to include new rods. You could use a 400 block also but scarcity and virginity will be a factor. Heck even the 350 is getting that way. Either way the crankcase ventilation will need to be addressed. You can dress the engine as an LT1 or you can plumb the engine for the ventilation either by drilling out the rear china wall or through the rear of the intake manifold and add an oil control baffle to keep from sucking oil. This task probable reads as being a lot harder than it is. Reach out to DZ Auto for further info as he used a 400 and drilled out the rear china wall. Remember the oil dipstick location when sourcing a block as that may influence you oil pan choice. If you want to use a small journal block with a windage tray you will need (1) to find the correct main bolts which even used are pricey or (2) shorten the large journal main bolts or (3) use aftermarket main studs and tray or (4) use the Z28 oil pan and tray. All four options have a downside, (1) price/availability, (2) a somewhat increased distance from crank, (3) line hone the block and research the studs and tray that will work with the block, (4) $$$$
I do not know about the machining availability in you area of the country but here in my town only two shops still bore a block and rework heads. Crankshaft grinding cost is $150, has to be sent out to Denver 65 miles away, and only one shop does it so the wait can be 3 weeks or longer. When the costs of travel, grinding, and balancing are added up along with a possible long wait the kit maybe the way to go.
I think that's what my friend/installer now builder apparently is thinking (make life easier). I did find a used 327 intact I thought would be perfect--numbers show out of a 65 corvette actually, but when I told him my friend (who was originally only supposed to install) suprised me, found this block complete with heads, quadrajet, etc.. so I think he has other ideas. I didn't think he wanted to build it (I have asked in the past) but I guess he changed his mind. So I'm not complaining. I would have preferred the complete corvette engine I found but the guy wanted $2k and my friend thought his find was a better option especially since he doesn't have to disassemble and see what is what. This block is all apart so he can see what he is buying and what it needs.
I suggested drilling the intake. He didn't seem to excited by the prospect but I will leave it to him.
I can't believe these old 327s are hard to find. I personally have a 64, 65, 66, and 68 laying around that get only second glances from the LS crowd and only laughs from the BB boys. Also, the shipping to anywhere is a deal breaker in most cases. Machine work has gone crazy also, so most are springing for aluminum heads.
If you are dead set on a pre 1968 block and heads, an advertisement in Craig's List or Facebook could probably give you the engine you want.
Yup, think you are right. As I indicated above I did find one that fit the bill but my installer now builder found something he thought was a better option so I will probably go with his judgment. I may have thought differently if it wasn't for the fact I already paid for a rebuild. At this point I just want a motor competently build. I am already out the $$ on the previous bad rebuild.
Dennis
Block Identification
