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You don't say small block or big block. That might make a little difference. Last time I did it, I did engine and tranny all together. I had to remove the core support and drop the steering linkage. But, if you're OK to do those things, the assembly goes in and out fine. Next time, I'm going to try leaving the bellhousing on the engine but unbolt the tranny and leave the tranny in the car. That might work or it might not work. If it doesn't work, then go ahead and remove the tranny too and put it all back together. As you probably well know, trying to get the pilot shaft of the tranny thru the clutch and into the pilot bearing can be a B!+(h.
So, specifically answering your question, my advice would be to plan on removing the core support so you have plenty of room forward, and plan on maybe needing to drop the steering linkage.
R66 is a 300hp / 327. I would remove the hood first. All electrical connections, linkage, and speedometer and tach cables disconnected. Remove the exhaust manifolds. The ground cables at the engine to engine mounts are easy to forget and break. I pull the distributor, carburetor, alternator, power steering pump, plug wires, spark plugs etc. on the top side.
Of course you need to put the car up on jack stands unless you have a lift with open center to access the driveshaft and transmission. The shifter is a PIA to remove on a Muncie 4 speed, I pull the DS exhaust pipe totally out to access it. I have under car exhaust.
The hood, fan, fan shroud, and fuel pump are removed. I removed the fuel pump just to prevent damage to it, at least the second time.
Unless you have a removable cross member, you have to lift the engine a bit, then move it forward for the tail shaft of the transmission to clear the cross member allowing the engine / trans to tilt. (don't forget a plug in the transmission output shaft). I put a jack under the transmission to help it slide forward. A helper to operate the cherry picker is a plus.
I didn't drop the steering linkage, but might not hurt.
I'll think of some more later.
Ron
Since you are planning to swap out your transmission anyway, I would remove and install the engine and transmission all as one unit. There has been quite a bit of step by step procedures posted here on the Forum on removing and then installing an engine and transmission all as one unit.
You will need to remove the hood, the radiator and fan shroud, the fan, exhaust manifolds, distributor, carburetor and plug wires, clutch cross shaft, shifter linkage, accelerator rod linkage and driveshaft just to name a few of the many items. You do not need to remove the fuel pump, the steering box, steering linkage or the radiator core support. Take your time and use the interim period between removal and installation to clean and repaint your engine bay. C.J.
If you are working in a garage with an engine hoist make sure you have plenty of overhead room. When I pulled my engine and transmission I ran out of height due to the open garage door and had to drop the car nearly to the ground at the front to get it out. My garage was too short to close the door as I had no room for the lift up front. Also, hoisting from the front usually is the best approach when pulling the engine and transmission together, but some lifts are a little short of arm length for this and won’t clear the nose. Look for one with a little more capacity and reach if necessary. Good luck.
R66 is a 300hp / 327. I would remove the hood first. All electrical connections, linkage, and speedometer and tach cables disconnected. Remove the exhaust manifolds. The ground cables at the engine to engine mounts are easy to forget and break. I pull the distributor, carburetor, alternator, power steering pump, plug wires, spark plugs etc. on the top side.
Of course you need to put the car up on jack stands unless you have a lift with open center to access the driveshaft and transmission. The shifter is a PIA to remove on a Muncie 4 speed, I pull the DS exhaust pipe totally out to access it. I have under car exhaust.
The hood, fan, fan shroud, and fuel pump are removed. I removed the fuel pump just to prevent damage to it, at least the second time.
Unless you have a removable cross member, you have to lift the engine a bit, then move it forward for the tail shaft of the transmission to clear the cross member allowing the engine / trans to tilt. (don't forget a plug in the transmission output shaft). I put a jack under the transmission to help it slide forward. A helper to operate the cherry picker is a plus.
I didn't drop the steering linkage, but might not hurt.
I'll think of some more later.
Ron
All good advice listed above..... only things to add/reinforce would be to use an 'engine leveler' similar to what is shown above by C2Scho and to make sure you have the pick point on your engine hoist out as far as it can go, with capacity, as DansYellow66 noted..... if not, you run the risk of having the post of the engine hoist running into the nose of the car......
If you are working in a garage with an engine hoist make sure you have plenty of overhead room. When I pulled my engine and transmission I ran out of height due to the open garage door and had to drop the car nearly to the ground at the front to get it out. My garage was too short to close the door as I had no room for the lift up front. Also, hoisting from the front usually is the best approach when pulling the engine and transmission together, but some lifts are a little short of arm length for this and won’t clear the nose. Look for one with a little more capacity and reach if necessary. Good luck.
I had the same issue...did the same as you did...and is was scary lifting it over the nose of the car...thinking of the 'what if's'..
All good advice listed above..... only things to add/reinforce would be to use an 'engine leveler' similar to what is shown above by C2Scho and to make sure you have the pick point on your engine hoist out as far as it can go, with capacity, as DansYellow66 noted..... if not, you run the risk of having the post of the engine hoist running into the nose of the car......
You will not be able to remove the engine and tranny together without a leveller and preferably one with a hex drive so you can use an impact wrench to turn it. I did it by myself which is doable, but a friend will speed up the process and give you some piece of mind. Another thing to consider is where to attach the leveller. A stock C2 V8 does not have accessory holes drilled and tapped into the heads. I used four intake manifold bolt holes with longer bolts and a big washer through a chain link. Lots to improvise on these cars when making changes!
Last year I installed a Tremec TKX behind my big block in a 1966. Due to the Tremec being approximately 3.5 inches longer I needed to install as one unit. I tried several times with the motor in the car but due to very tight clearances could not get transmission in place.
One item/tool that helped me was using a 2 ton engine hoist. Due to space and the position of the hoist legs I could not install from the side of the car. The standard hoist was literally pushing again the nose of the car while we were tilting the motor using a leveler. The 2 ton hoist gained me some piece of mind as the hoist was further away from the car. I checked at least 5 tool rental companies and no one offered the 2 ton hoist so I ended up purchasing one.
I do so agree with: get helpers. I could and did remove the engine alone, in my '70 GM A-body, in an afternoon. I just removed all the front end sheet metal, and I had done it maybe a dozen times so I knew exactly what to do and which custom-made attachment or custom-bent wrench to use to make it easy. I had the blocks to support the trans while on a jack, the hoist and leveler the stand, everything ready, it was bam bam bam. It was not so the first five times or so.
But no matter what, you can't see everything at once. Even if it's to just have more sets of eyes on what's happening where you can't see it. Ripping out a transmission detent cable with the engine hoist because you didn't realize it was trapped against the block by the lift chain, after you unbolted it, is embarrassing. Ask me how I know.
I went from the side on both removal and install. Had a cheap harbor freight leveler on removal. It scared me because the side braces on the pivot pin wanted to spread apart on removing the 327. Bought a better built one for install of the 427 and tremec. Also I made a C3 style removable crossmember when the body was off. I think it helped on the install of the longer transmission.
You will not be able to remove the engine and tranny together without a leveller and preferably one with a hex drive so you can use an impact wrench to turn it. I did it by myself which is doable, but a friend will speed up the process and give you some piece of mind. Another thing to consider is where to attach the leveller. A stock C2 V8 does not have accessory holes drilled and tapped into the heads. I used four intake manifold bolt holes with longer bolts and a big washer through a chain link. Lots to improvise on these cars when making changes!
As above, if you have a leveller and get the car about a foot off the ground, you can pull the whole lot out (including the shifter) in one go.
Hood off, fan off, radiator and shroud out.
Exhaust left in, just tied to each side.
Disconnect the tail shaft and leave the yoke in the tranny, or you’ll have a real mess the clean up !
It’s a fairly easy process with the right tools and a friend to help and watch. Good luck.
It was also a good opportunity to tidy up the engine bay
Last edited by anyChevy; Jan 24, 2024 at 06:30 AM.
Dennis
