[C2] Distributor Main Shaft
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 6
From: Long Island
Distributor Main Shaft
I need to replace the main shaft and bushings on my 1111196 Delco Remy distributor.(1967 Corvette L79 ).The vendors offer a standard or High Performance shaft.Trying to determine which would be correct for me.What is the difference? Also would I just replace the shaft or also replace the weights? Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,076
Likes: 1,191
I need to replace the main shaft and bushings on my 1111196 Delco Remy distributor.(1967 Corvette L79 ).The vendors offer a standard or High Performance shaft.Trying to determine which would be correct for me.What is the difference? Also would I just replace the shaft or also replace the weights? Thanks
I believe you want the High Performance Distributor Main Shaft # 1870718
Here is some more information FWIW:
https://www.tispecialty.com/articles/article6.htm
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/770021-distributor-mainshaft-base-or-hi-perf.html
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 28,232
Likes: 2,872
From: Beach & High Desert Southern California
I need to replace the main shaft and bushings on my 1111196 Delco Remy distributor.(1967 Corvette L79 ).The vendors offer a standard or High Performance shaft.Trying to determine which would be correct for me.What is the difference? Also would I just replace the shaft or also replace the weights? Thanks
A helpful thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ditioning.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,869
Likes: 196
From: Maryland
Be sure to order an end gear shim kit , a new plate plate ground wire and a set of quality 28-32 oz points & condenser kit.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 6
From: Long Island
After installing the distributor I noticed the tach wasn't working.I replaced the main shaft ,bushings and tach gear in the distributor(shaft and lower bushing was worn but the shaft gear and tach gear were fine) .I removed the tach gear back out of the distributor, slid it onto the cable and saw it was spinning without turning the cable.After closely comparing the new and old gears I noticed the square end of the new gear was slightly larger then the older one.So should I just order a new cable hoping that the end of the cable is thicker or use the older gear that was in the distributor.Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 28,232
Likes: 2,872
From: Beach & High Desert Southern California
After installing the distributor I noticed the tach wasn't working.I replaced the main shaft ,bushings and tach gear in the distributor(shaft and lower bushing was worn but the shaft gear and tach gear were fine) .I removed the tach gear back out of the distributor, slid it onto the cable and saw it was spinning without turning the cable.After closely comparing the new and old gears I noticed the square end of the new gear was slightly larger then the older one.So should I just order a new cable hoping that the end of the cable is thicker or use the older gear that was in the distributor.Thanks
The tach cable end fits into the shaft end square hole without binding (twist the cable and try again).
If your gears are stripped, the cause is almost always due to the sidegear having worn itself into the thrust surface of the distributor housing and then locking up. You cannot put a new mainshaft and crossgear in a housing with thrust surface damage. If you have any wear on the surface, you have to machine the housing and install a custom machined thrust surface insert to repair the surface. If you don't do this, the new gears will strip out almost immediately.
Lars
Lars
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...7-rebuild.html
The kit issues I experience are with the tach cross shaft gear thrust button. Later +1968 distributors use a thin nylon button, early distributors use a thick brass button. Neither button works out of the box if the housing is worn, unless you get lucky. The last few I have rebuilt required the brass button to be thinned to provide the correct end play with the tach cross shaft assembly tight. I now use a mill bit, but a file and time will hand fit the button clearance (a winter, time kill, project).
