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other than the pic, i don't know anything about it. it just looks like it would be a little less scary than the type with the two threaded rods and hooks that clamp on the out side of the coil. every time i use one of those i'm waiting for a disaster. this one looks like it would be more positively located on the coils and the threaded rod down the center should help keep the spring from flying out.
I made this to RR springs...put it on in through the shock tower...used parts from the rear diff snubber bushing....worked like a charm...put it in...tighten it up...remove ball joint...release pressure and the spring comes right out...reverse procedure...i made a deep socket...cut a socket in half...weld the socket to a 10" piece of thin wall pipe...
I would recommend a setup like 66Jack uses and go through the shock tower. You’ll need to grab the spring as low down as possible. Those “store bought” pullers are a little short for the shock tower method. I bought one then used the hooks from the kit plus some all thread rod to make a puller. Worked like a charm, made the job a breeze.
I've used one like Jack's since 47 years ago. The difference in mine is it is a longer rod, 1/2 inch threaded rod, and a 1/2 pipe flange for the A-arm hole. My first was 3/8 inch threaded rod, but I decided that it might be a bit too weak for safety. Also, the 1/2 inch nuts get a better grip on the rod. If you can find a barrel nut that size, all the better. I also have two nuts on each end, so that if the pressure nut strips, the second is there to catch it.
The big advantage to one like Jack's and mine is the spring cannot get loose and go flying. It is always captured. That said, I typically still loop a couple of 1 inch motorcycle straps around a coil.
Edit:
Now that the picture of that one you are looking at came in, it is basically the same thing. The only real difference will be price. You can buy a piece of 1/2 inch threaded rod for $8 at Lowe's, about $2 in nuts, and a couple of dollars from some very large flat washers. If you can't find any washers large enough for the A-arm hole, then you might do as I did with a pipe flange but those run about another $7 at Lowe's. So if that compressor above is less than $25, you might as well have something nice.
Last edited by Procrastination Racing; Feb 3, 2024 at 01:33 PM.
I used it at the dealership I worked at. This was an essential tool from GM. We used it to remove the coil spring. When used as instructed, all you had to do was remove the lower control arm attaching bolts to the frame and swing the arm down pivoting at the ball joint. A very safe spring tool. A real time saver.
thanks for all the great input guys. i also have one like procrastination and jack describe: 3/4" threaded rod, large washers, double nuts at the bottom and a plate that bolts to the shock mounts in the LCA. this keeps the lower end from walking around. problem is, my spring is so tall it gets a large bow in it when it's coming out and going back together. i usually end up separating the ball joint, unbolting the inboard end of the LCA and lowering spring and LCA together. to make this work better i put 5/16" threaded rod through LCA to frame mount holes to guide it back up to the frame. it works well enough but it's convoluted and takes forever. the OTC tool looks like the adaptors locate it fairly well and would allow the spring to be compressed and removed without all this hassle.
I used it at the dealership I worked at. This was an essential tool from GM. We used it to remove the coil spring. When used as instructed, all you had to do was remove the lower control arm attaching bolts to the frame and swing the arm down pivoting at the ball joint. A very safe spring tool. A real time saver.
John, very interesting, never thought about just lowering the inboard end of the LCA. i take it that the LCA swings down or out of the way to clear the spring enough to decompress the spring and remove it. any trouble getting the spring to align back up when going back together?
Enclosed is a video of a through the shock location to compress the spring. I make a block up and use the lower control arm shock mounting points to make the spring tool tied to the lower control arm and that way it can just hang before you start to compress the spring.
playz, that's very similar to how i do mine except i install the knuckle assembly on the UCA and i use some threaded rod through the mounting holes in the frame and the LCA cross shaft to help guide the LCA up to the frame.
Coil Spring Compressor
