Help Determining Correct Transmission
with a unit from a '67 Corvette. I am working to put the car back into its original configuration and would like to source a correct spec 1965 4 speed transmission for the car.
Attached are photos of the data plates... my question: is there a way to determine the correct transmission for the car based on this information? I'm not clear if a close ratio or wide ration transmission is correct
for the car.
Thanks in advance for any help!




Ted











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Yes and no.
For the 1963-65 model years, THERE WAS ONLY ONE OPTION FOR THE 4sp. It was M20, PERIOD.
The FACTORY------NOT THE CUSTOMER-------determined if the Muncie was a wide or close ratio. This determination by the factory was dependent on engine option and rearend gear ratio. LATER TO BE REFERRED TO AS M20 OR M21 beginning in 1966
Then, beginning with the 1966 model year, the 4sp options became M20, M21, M22.
And, speaking of M22, A VERY SMALL handful of M22 Muncies were installed later in the 65 model year. These were installed behind the very hi-perf engines, such as the solid lifter SB and the 425hp/396. Information and documentation on the few 65 M22s which were installed is very sketchy.
Last edited by DZAUTO; Feb 16, 2024 at 03:38 PM.





With a high gear rearend ratio, such as 3.08, 3.36. it most likely got a wide ratio Muncie NOT an M20 specifically.
If it got a low gear ratio, such as a 3.70, 4,11, it normally got a close ratio Muncie, NOT an M21.
Back then, CLOSE and WIDE ratio is the way Muncies were referred to. NOT, repeat, NOT M20 or M21.
I don't know how to explain it any better.
With a high gear rearend ratio, such as 3.08, 3.36. it most likely got a wide ratio Muncie NOT an M20 specifically.
If it got a low gear ratio, such as a 3.70, 4,11, it normally got a close ratio Muncie, NOT an M21.
Back then, CLOSE and WIDE ratio is the way Muncies were referred to. NOT, repeat, NOT M20 or M21.
I don't know how to explain it any better.
Muncie M2? transmission – 3851325 stamped P05 12 (May 12th 1965) SN S117792
Differential – 3876476-N stamped (A)M5 14 05 (May 14th 1965, 3.36, posi (rebuilt as 3.55 posi)
Last edited by JohnnyRay; Feb 16, 2024 at 05:46 PM.





Muncie M2? transmission – 3851325 stamped P05 12 (May 12th 1965) SN S117792
Differential – 3876476-N stamped (A)M5 14 05 (May 14th 1965, 3.36, posi (rebuilt as 3.55 posi)
For the same years, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL Muncies used the same case, regardless of wide/close ratio or M20, M21, M22. Just one example, ALL 1967 Muncies (M20-M21-M22) used the same case with the same casting number, 3885010. Same for tail housings and same for side covers.
Thus, pull the transmission and look at the input shaft-------------------------MAYBE, MAYBE, MAYBE! FROM THE FACTORY, 63-65 wide ration Muncie input shafts had NO grooves on the input shaft. Close ratio had ONE groove. REMEMBER, WE'RE TALKING ORIGINAL FACTORY CONFIGURATION.
The 1966-74 M20 (wide ratio) Muncies had 2 grooves on the input shaft.
The 66-74 M21 Muncies (close ratio) had 1 groove on the input shaft.
The 66-74 M22 Muncies (heavy duty/rock crusher) had NO grooves.
Again, the above were FACTORY configuration.
BUT, if the gears were busted, or teeth broken off, A REPLACEMENT INPUT SHAFT USUALLY did not have any grooves.
Thus, that finally brings us to the question "How do you SURE FIRE determine what you actually have inside your Muncie case. Super simple, pull the side cover and check the tooth count of the gears.+
Frequently, unknowledgeable (or unscrupulous) people will try to pass off an M20 or M21 as an M22. If it has 1 or 2 grooves, run forest, run!
And, if it has no grooves, that DOES NOT necessarily indicate that it is an M22. It could be a rebuilt M20 or M21 that got a replacement input shaft.
AGAIN, the ONLY way to tell is remove the side cover and look at the gears. The angle of the teeth in an M22 are at a lesser angle than M20/M21 teeth, as below.
So, in (early) 1963 it was a BW 4spd to change later to Muncie with no named identity per se.
I find it funny/not funny the factory determined what trans (wide/close) the customer wanted based on engine HP.
My 66 has a 300HP and 4 speed. It dops about 600 rpm per gear, thus I assumed it was a close ratio. I guess I need to roll my ol' fat body under the car to see what numbers are on it to see if it was born with it.





So, in (early) 1963 it was a BW 4spd to change later to Muncie with no named identity per se.
I find it funny/not funny the factory determined what trans (wide/close) the customer wanted based on engine HP.
My 66 has a 300HP and 4 speed. It dops about 600 rpm per gear, thus I assumed it was a close ratio. I guess I need to roll my ol' fat body under the car to see what numbers are on it to see if it was born with.
Remember, on ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL 63-65 Muncies, they were only M20.
For the same years, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL Muncies used the same case, regardless of wide/close ratio or M20, M21, M22. Just one example, ALL 1967 Muncies (M20-M21-M22) used the same case with the same casting number, 3885010. Same for tail housings and same for side covers.
Thus, pull the transmission and look at the input shaft-------------------------MAYBE, MAYBE, MAYBE! FROM THE FACTORY, 63-65 wide ration Muncie input shafts had NO grooves on the input shaft. Close ratio had ONE groove. REMEMBER, WE'RE TALKING ORIGINAL FACTORY CONFIGURATION.
The 1966-74 M20 (wide ratio) Muncies had 2 grooves on the input shaft.
The 66-74 M21 Muncies (close ratio) had 1 groove on the input shaft.
The 66-74 M22 Muncies (heavy duty/rock crusher) had NO grooves.
Again, the above were FACTORY configuration.
BUT, if the gears were busted, or teeth broken off, A REPLACEMENT INPUT SHAFT USUALLY did not have any grooves.
Thus, that finally brings us to the question "How do you SURE FIRE determine what you actually have inside your Muncie case. Super simple, pull the side cover and check the tooth count of the gears.+
Frequently, unknowledgeable (or unscrupulous) people will try to pass off an M20 or M21 as an M22. If it has 1 or 2 grooves, run forest, run!
And, if it has no grooves, that DOES NOT necessarily indicate that it is an M22. It could be a rebuilt M20 or M21 that got a replacement input shaft.
AGAIN, the ONLY way to tell is remove the side cover and look at the gears. The angle of the teeth in an M22 are at a lesser angle than M20/M21 teeth, as below.










