which set of guide plates should I use? I have a set of elgin flat style, raised 4800 comp cams and the set of adjustable guide plates which came with the heads. Should I spot weld the adjustable guide plates to keep them from walking if I should use the ones which are adjustable? I can use some feeler gauge to keep the guide plates from walking when I torque the studs down. Also, I presume all I need to use is permatex to seal up the studs correct? The adjustable guide plates will need to be deburred.

 

Firstly do you need the adjustable ones, are the rockers that far off on those speedway heads? You probably won't know until you get the cam in and check valve train geometry. The stepped ones are the strongest compared to the flat style.
If the threads for those go into water you will need some thread sealant, NOT silicone.

 

Your rocker stud should be blind holes not passing into water jackets, just use arp assembly lube and torque.

 

Its hard to tell without the heads sitting on the block. The exhaust side looks off a little bit. I have 8 roller 1.6 or a full set of 1.5 roller comp cam magnum roller tip rockers. I did not look to see if the studs go into the water jacket. I will check for that. I have plenty of thread sealant.

 

The intake rocker stud will thread into the intake port roof. You will need to seal it. I have used Dow 732 for years. None go into water and the exhaust will be blind. I use CMD3 or ARP lube and torque to spec. Remember the intake is under vacuum, so you need to seal the oil out as the piston will want to draw it in during the intake stroke. The ports look to be a 1204 or 1205 size, so I doubt you need an adjustable plate. With the short stud, I'd use the flat one. Adjustable guide plates should be tacked together, so no need to make more work than necessary. Your head will need mounted and the final rocker set on before you can try to align them.

Brandon Unklesbay
All-In Performance, LLC

 

Last night, I noticed the intakes are open to the water. I will test each one as I start assembling the rockers. This weekend, I am going to pull the short block out.

Thanks for the information

 

If someone has enlarged the stud holes to like 7/16, then it is wise to check that they didn't drill into the water jacket.

 

I don’t have any preference over the GM style or the stepped guide plates. I guess there may be a difference. But your engine will dictate if you use the adjustable guide plates or not. I would assemble with the studs dry using the flat guide plates and check for misalignment on the valve tips. Looking at the engine from the side, are the rockers all centered on the valve tip? If so then you will be fine using the fixed alignment plates. If not, you will need the adjustable plates to correct the misalignment. I would then remove the flat plates, install the now sealant applied studs in the adjustable plates aligning the rocker to the valve tip, then torquing them down. I probably would tack weld them, but it also probably isn't needed as very little side load and they are clamped down pretty darn tight.

 

First, I am meticulous on the correct pushrod length. Once I have that, it goes along way to not have misalignment.
Yes if using adjustable guide plates, weld, as don't trust any epoxy in that application.

 

These are new heads from speedway.

 

I don’t see any reason to use the adjustable guide plates and I would use the stepped plates. That said, you will need to mock up one cylinder to measure for the proper push rod length (never assume what some vendor tells you about valve train geometry). Leave the guide plates off until you mock up the cylinder and determine the best one at that point. I think you will find the stepped ones work best. Good luck!

 

I just went through similar testing for guideplates for my Fast Burns. I have had issues with the "self aligning rockers" nut working that great(Harland Sharp better than the stamped for sure) so converting them to guideplates. I have the original 350 Vortec out of my '97 Chevy truck as well as a 383 with 69 041 heads one it. The Vortec and the Fast Burn heads use no guideplates and no slots in heads to keep the pushrod straight. ALL the heads are different spacing. The factory no guideplates 041 that still has pushtods to rockers had almost 0.040 variance in spread between cylinders!
The plain flat Comp guideplates are tight on the 041 a few cylinders , fit the Vortec OK, I went with Isky Adjustable ones. Often with a non adjustable on a pair one rocker is on the valve tip better than the other, they let you get both centered.

I tried the Isky's -they only made SBC on a Pontiac head before and the slots were not deep enough for the pushrod but I was using higher ratio rocker, hopefully the Fast burns won't have that issue when I mock them up.
Many heads the intake stud hole goes into the port, in fact Chevy lists a special sealer for the Fast Burns-12346004 Valve rocker arm stud sealer-which is also a bad *** Loctite!. I just have used the liquid Permatex #14 Teflon sealer or ARP's sealer that I use on Chevy head bolts into water.