CADbrian

Not long ago I removed and rebuilt my car's clutch and brake pedal assembly because the shared rod for my clutch and brake pedals was soooo sticky (due to old/wrong lubrication) that BOTH pedals moved in unison about an inch of travel. To see what I'm talking about click here to go to the OP. During the disassembly process I noticed the pin of my car's clutch pedal's welded flange had a noticeable groove worn into it from use; not bad and I've seen a lot worse, but while I was there I thought about pressing the pin out and replacing it but I couldn't find just the pin and that pin (if I'm not mistaken) is factory tac welded to the flange. So, not only could I not find just the pin but I'd also have to weld the pin to the flange and I'm not a welder. So I called my machinist to get his thoughts and he came up with a good plan that I'll share for anyone in a similar situation. See below, scroll down.

Here is the clutch pedal welded flange pin I'm talking about...








My machinist suggested that he create a bushing between the pin and the clutch push rod and here's how he did it.

Here is the junction of the clutch pedal and the clutch push rod with the correct spacers /washers installed on both sides of the clutch push rod.

Here is the junction of the clutch pedal and the clutch push rod with the correct spacers /washers installed on both sides of the clutch push rod.

Reaming to .403 ID

Reaming to .403 ID

Reaming to .403 ID

Choosing bushing material. He chose aluminum-bronze.

Machining the aluminum-bronze

The bushing was machined 0.002 greater than the ID of the hole in the clutch push rod and was pressed in. For extra insurance he used permanent red loctite.

The bushing was machined 0.002 greater than the ID of the hole in the clutch push rod and was pressed in. For extra insurance he used permanent red loctite.

I know there could be a debate about the choice of material (there's a lot of possible choices) but I put my trust in my machinist (who is also a car guy) and he chose aluminum-bronze because it's a hard bronze and it work-hardens the more you use it and no lubrication is needed.

Since the bushing is surrounded on both sides by a larger washer, the bushing isn't going anywhere and I'm sure the bushing will outlast me and/or the # of clutch pushes that I'll put it through.

Anyway, I hope this post helps someone who might be in a similar situation.

Corn Fed

That's a good fix if the hole of the rod is worn, but I don't think it addresses the pin wear. The moving contact area is still on the worn pin surface. If the bushing was made to press fit over the pin, with the new moving contact area on the OD of the bushing, then you'd have solved it.

CADbrian

I don't remember examining the hole but it could have been out of round. I think another factor contributing to the wear on the pin was the fact that my clutch pedal assembly was not installed with the correct number of washers and spacers perhaps enhancing the wear on the pin and creating a situation where there was more play and more slop than what there should have been. This bushing and the use of the correct washers and spacers eliminates or at least reduces extraneous play and slop in that mechanism and I am confident that this solution (combined with the correct washers) will outlast me and the next owner and probably the next owner after that.

66jack

Did you have xtra bushings made, just in case?

CADbrian

No, but I could easily have them made.

Vitaminmopar

Admire the work put into this repair. I wonder if a 5/16 or 3/8 clevis pin would suffice in this application. Use a flanged oilite brass bushing over the clevis. Bushings are made oversize to fit shafts, cut down length as needed.

CADbrian

I have to admit that I have to see pix to better understand ideas. For the benefit of those who might find this post when they are considering all other options, could I talk you into posting up some pix of your idea? Thanks.