I’m at the front end shop to have the front end aligned on my 57 and the young man is wondering how to do the alignment. Specifically adjust the camber. Anybody got some help ?

Thanks
Rex

 

When he finds out he'll probably tell you he "came in sick" that day. Top outer knuckle grease fitting comes out so as to insert an allen wrench. Then loosen the bolt that squeezes the knuckle pin in place then turn the allen wrench to adjust camber. Keep turning to eventually adjust caster. He'll probably find that there is neither enough adjustment to fully achieve both.

 

Back home now. Car drives a littler better, steering seems a little more responsive. The young man who did the alignment is the son of a good friend and he's been doing alignments for 10 years, he'd just never done one on a C1 Corvette. He did the best he could, considering it's a nearly 70 year old car. The frame and suspension were restored probably 25 years ago and it sat until I got the car a couple years ago and did the restoration, adding some of my personal touches.

Here are the before and after numbers for the alignment:

BEFORE
L front R front
Camber 2.6* 0.4*
Caster 0.3* -0.3*
Toe -0.46* -0.61*


AFTER

L front. R front
Camber 1.8* 0.4*
Caster 0.6* -0.4*
Toe 0.12* 0.11*

I'll also add the car is on bias ply tires which doesn't help matters. I know a nice set of radials would help considerably but I'm trying to stay old school as much as possible. Hoping to take the car down the strip a few times and just trying to make sure it's safe and goes straight.

Thanks,
See y'all in the funny papers.

Rex

 

Beautiful '57 Rex

 

Another great car Rex.

 

Very nice 57!
In regards to the alignment, in order to increase the caster, you will probably need to add caster shims like these between the frame and crossmember:
https://www.corvettecentral.com/571025?gad_source=1
I had to add an extra one on my 57 to get the caster to approx 1.3 deg. ( I do the alignment on the garage floor. Close enough for these cars.)
It also leveled out the tie rods nicely to get rid of a bump steer problem. I hope this helps.

 

Can you explain that in more detail?

Since the third arm rotates with the crossmember as shims are added, I don't see how the steering geometry changes. I am familiar with dropping the rear of the third arm to reduce bump steer. In fact, that's the only technique I've heard about.

 

 

I don't know about the alignment but that is a beautiful car. Wow. The Cragers really make it.

 

Now that is a Vette!! May ask about that master cylinder?

 

Hi Jim, I agree that the third arm needs to be lowered to change the geometry.
Prior to adding shims, the tie rods were angled upwards toward the third arm. After adding the shims, the third arm rotated with the crossmember, and the tie rods were level.

 

Thank you ! ABS Power Brake .com

 

Outstanding car Rex. I love it.
Jay

 

Nice, I wish my ‘57 looked that good

 

That car checks all the boxes for me, Rex. It has all the hallmarks of the 60s. Wow. That is the best-looking '57 I have seen in a looooong time.

This is embarrassing. I am now forced to kick mine to the back of the garage and throw a tarp over it.

 

Rex
Could you give us the rundown on the engine ?
It looks like a newer intake and I can't tell if the valve cover bolts are off set or not . The exhaust looks like ir is custom fabricated.

 

Hi Tom,

I’m happy to share details about the car. The engine is a 66 327 block bored .060, Carrillo pistons on Scat rods, all swung by a std 283 forged steel crank. This combination yields 310 cubic inches. Cam is a custom grind mechanical roller; heads are 1970 angle plug 492 castings; intake is a vintage single plane Edelbrock Torker with a Quick Fuel 735 CFM carburetor; lighting the mixture is a modern Mallory Uni Lite distributor with mechanical tach drive.

Moving back in the driveline, the clutch is a Centerforce dual friction, enclosed in a Lakewood scatter shield. Transmission is a Power Brute Borg Warner Super T-10 with 2.88 first gear and Hurst Competition Plus shifter and a Hurst Line Loc.

Rear end was donated by a 1957 Pontiac (same width as the stock 57 Vette rear, so it’s basically a bolt in swap, just had to relocate the spring perches), axles are 31 spline by Summers Bros,; 3rd member is all new GM stuff, 5.13 gears and posi., and a set of Traction Masters. Wilwood disc brakes are resting at all 4 corners.

Fenderwell headers and custom 3 inch side pipes are by Stahl (now ACP) and have 33 inches of spiral baffles in each side in an attempt to quieten (?) it down a little, but not too much.

Sorry, I guess I got carried away a bit answering your question about the intake and valve covers.

Future plans call for a vintage Rochester fuel injection to replace the Quick Fuel carb.


Thanks to all for the kind words about the car. I built it as a tribute to the old Junior Stock drag cars from the late 60s and 70s. It’s been fun thus far.

Rex

 

Rex
That is what I , as well as many other members wan ted to know . 310 CI engine must have a ridiculous red line especially with those "street gears" out back .

 

I remember those 311 cid engines. At NEITA raceway in Cedar Falls, Iowa (circa '66'-70), a guy named Howard Allen had a B/SR (street roadster), a National Record holder employing one of those engines. High revving engine, to be sure. His shifts were in the 9,000 rpm range. He was the first person in our area to use a Clutch-Flight trans.

Rex mentioned that he patterned his car as a tribute to the Junior Stockers of the day. Below is an excellent article on that class.
Junior Stock Drag Racing - NHRA Production Race Class History - Hot Rod Magazine (motortrend.com)

 

Dan
Thanks for the link . Good read .