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I’m picking up my 63 this weekend. The current battery in the car looked smaller than a regular battery when I saw the car. Unfortunately that battery is dead. Will a standard size battery fit in there? If not, what do I get? Thanks, Brian
I put a group 34 in my 63 with all original style box and hold down. Fits fine slightly easier to get in. I always remove coolant tank and heater hoses.
I put a group 34 in my 63 with all original style box and hold down. Fits fine slightly easier to get in. I always remove coolant tank and heater hoses.
Spot on! Group 34 is same X-Y dimension as 24, but it's 1" shorter in height. Easier to install & remove, and provides generous clearance from cooling system expansion tank. The extra inch provides better access for battery disconnect switch. There seem to be more CCA, CA & AH selections available with 34s. The hold down & J-bolt can be shortened or used with a spacer. Caution - select a "34", not a "34R" which has poles reversed.
I took off one of the hoses and coolant started leaking so I put the hose back on. will the coolant continue to come out? How do you deal with that? Do you leave the tank attached to the hoses and swing it all around?
When not driving the car. As in your parking it in public or in your garage . The disconnect switch isolates the battery from the wiring harness's in the car. Removes the possibility of parasitic drain.
I can let my car sit for months and when I do start it there is no hesitation by the starter ,
newbie here...what is the battery disconnect switch for? Obviously disconnects the battery but when do you use it?
1) Any time you might possibly play with anything related to fuel
2) Many of these cars have slow parasitic electrical drains. It's a bit more of a PITA than a steel bodied car. So many of us use the disco switch to easily "shut off" the battery connection, avoiding a drain
I took off one of the hoses and coolant started leaking so I put the hose back on. will the coolant continue to come out? How do you deal with that? Do you leave the tank attached to the hoses and swing it all around?
Yes, on R66 I remove the tank from the fender well and push it as far toward the engine as possible and secure it with a bit of twine.
The clock in a C2 is powered 100% of the time the battery is connected. Assuming the clock is original and still works, the rewind coil draws a bit of current and can contribute to battery drain. Also, any aftermarket radio or other device can have a memory that needs constant power, but adds to the drain.
I have added an aftermarket radio with memory, dash cam with parking monitoring, power hood lock, and cruise control. I power them with a separate wire from the battery thru a toggle switch. If the car is to be setting more than a week or so, I kill the power at the switch.
Enjoy your 63.
Ron
Thanks for all the help! I removed the tank brackets as advised and removed the top hose from the firewall and was able to swing it around. I used a group 34 battery as suggested in these forums. Its a little shorter so the battery hold down didn't fit perfect. Its snug so it will do until I figure out a solution. The car started and we were able to take our first ride today so a successful day.
I started it in the garage and I have noticed a smell of exhaust and maybe some fuel in the garage. No sign of a major fuel leak I have the garage door open and will investigate further. I guess its somewhat normal for these older cars?
Thanks for all the help! I removed the tank brackets as advised and removed the top hose from the firewall and was able to swing it around. I used a group 34 battery as suggested in these forums. Its a little shorter so the battery hold down didn't fit perfect. Its snug so it will do until I figure out a solution. The car started and we were able to take our first ride today so a successful day.
I started it in the garage and I have noticed a smell of exhaust and maybe some fuel in the garage. No sign of a major fuel leak I have the garage door open and will investigate further. I guess its somewhat normal for these older cars?
as for the gas smell, make sure you don’t have a leak anywhere first. But remember, these were pre-emission. No catalytic converts, and. no emissions. They can run rich and they are belching out a lot of 60’s raw horsepower. The smell is just an added bonus. You’ll get use to it….and probably embrace it. LOL
The only emissions control device that was present on your '63 when it was built was a PCV valve. There was no attempt to control either tailpipe emissions or evaporative emissions. Therefore, the exhaust fumes will be thick and heavy - worse with any tuning deficiencies that haven't been addressed -- and evaporating fuel from the tank's vent and the carburetor will escape into the atmosphere to add to the olfactory experience.
Additionally, the ethanol that's present in most of today's pump gasoline increases fuel evaporation from the carburetor on a hot engine.
So, yeah, you'll smell all of this. Increasing airflow through the garage can do a lot to knock it down, but you'd need to pull a lot of CFM of air through the garage in order to eliminate the aroma entirely. It's a fragrance that we accept as part of the overall price of admission that accompanies owning and using such old technology as existed in the 1960s.