I tried a new shop for my 67 alignment. They said they knew how to do it but right off the bat the guy calls and said one of the cam bolts (new) stripped and they had to order a new one. When I picked up the car he said the left TA has zero shims on the inside to get the toe correct. So all the shims on the outside. Now the car was hit in the right rear years ago and if a TA arm was bent I would have thought it would be that side, not the left. When I got the car home I noticed right away the rear camber wasn't right. Checking with a level they have about 1/2" lean or -2 degrees. So now I'm thinking if they couldn't get camber right why assume the toe is even close

 

Yah, something is clearly and obviously not right if you've got that much camber. Tom, are you using the slotted shims or the shims with the holes in them? The difficulty level (I'm sure you know this) between the 2 is night and day difference. Maybe the shop got started and realized it was too much work?

Some time ago, I called my chevy dealership from where I have purchased my last 2 new vehicles and asked them to do the alignment on my 67 (using holed shims in the rear) and they turned me down. I was shocked they turned me down but now that I've been through the rear alignment process MANY times changing out the shims I can understand why the dealership said they had no interest in doing that job. Such a pain in the butt. It is what it is though and had to be done so I did it.

 

I used the slotted ones.

 

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Are you willing / able to do the alignment yourself?

 

I'm considering it. My friend does WAY more cars than I do but the place we use now charges $700+ for a four wheel alignment. The camber is simple, the toe adjustment will take some tooling investment. I'm thinking we do the rear and take the car to a natl tire store for a $150 front end alignment

 

This is very common. Those who don't know what is involved in C2 rear toe say they can do it and usually screw everything up. Those who do know what is involved refuse because there are a lot of other easier ways to make money on other cars.

 

Are you in Michigan Tom? I went to Slims on 10 and Gratiot for my alignment. They know what they are doing

-Patrick

 

Yeah, we have been using Kovach Auto in Brighton. They do a great job but $700+ for a car with new everything and slotted shims? This shouldn't take them more than two hours

 

Tom
Something to consider is that the new bushings (pictured in the background) can be wider/fuller than the originals in the foreground which can give less-or-no room for shims. That could result in not being able to get enough toe-in.
See the difference between new shims shown as measured 2.286 in on the caliper compared to the width of my original never modified bushings in the foreground.
Gary

 

Could be, but your old one looks a little collapsed where as the new one looks nice and square

 

It's not that hard. Just follow the ST 12 and tube and experts on this site. We can get you through. It very satisfying. Jerry

 

I initially used the slotted shims when I took my 65 to a local " alignment pro"....They fell out on the way home with the car. I wound up getting the other shims ( round hole shims ) and found a small shop that had a four wheel alignment machine. The fellow that owned the shop was an immigrant from Thailand he had been a Master Toyota tech at a local dealership. A really smart fellow. I brought my shims, alignment specs and showed him what I wanted done. Left it for a day and when I came to pick it up he showed my the printout and I inspected the shim install.......perfect! The car drove home like a dream. Front and rear alignment was $ 350.00. This was in 2022. - Best of luck on getting your car aligned - Fred

 

Make sure to ask them how experienced they are with adjusting camber and caster on the front. I went to a regional tire chain that said they would do the front of my '72. All they did was adjust the toe and did nothing to increase caster as I requested (nowhere near the limit). I suspect the tech didn't know how.

 

Tom, if you do decide to go the string, at home alignment for toe, you should find the process fairly easy especially with new slotted shims. I installed rebuild T/A's from Bairs this spring and needed to then realign things. I was able to "rent" the alignment rack from my daily driver mechanic so the readings were easier than going the string route but the home alignment process should get you close. Camber, as you said, is straight forward, a bar spanning the wheel with a bubble protractor attached. On the toe, I found that if you jack the spring up until there is daylight between the spring end and the rubber cushion, loosen the frame pocket bolt, you can wiggle the slotted shims out of the pocket and add/subtract as necessary to dial it in and I was able to do that without pulling the tire. Re-tighten the pocket bolt (no need to torque it yet) drop the spring, bounce the rear end a bit with your hands and recheck the measurements. I went home with a bit more toe in that I wanted and was advised by factoid to correct that. I made a few 1/64" shims out of home fascia stock. At home, on my 4-post lift and using the procedure I mentioned above, I was able to add the 1/64" shims to the inside of the pocket, reduce the outside by the same amount and had it tightened up all within about 30 minutes. It is do-able.

 

As I am starting to put in my rebuilt rear suspension and differential this week, this is a very timely thread. Was wondering what "ST12 and tube" means. I am guessing tube means YouTube, but what is ST12?

Thanks. Mark

 

Does this shop have enough experience to have checked for differential side yoke play before doing the rear alignment? Too much play will result in dynamic alignment changes as you drive.

 

Mark,
The ST12 is a service manual for C1...not for your '66. What you're looking for are the ST 130 and ST 131 manuals for your '66. Pictured are the ones for my '67

 

Oh, I have those. Thanks for clearing that up. Now I look at mine I see the ST # on mine. Appreciate it. Mark

 

 

I think you guys are too worried about toes, yokes, cambers' and casters, what ever those words mean?? When you are only driving the car 1,000-2,000 miles a year.
The most that will happen is the tires won't wear evenly. The tires will "age out" and ( need to be replaced) before any real damage will show up.