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Hi. Thanks again to all the help with tuning this year. 1966 427 390 rebuilt to spec about 20 years ago. Runs really good since all the tuning help. I run 93 octane. Timing is about 10 degrees advanced at idle. Runs rich but starting and running very good. I get s little spark knock if I'm getting on it in 3rd gear. It's real subtle. Most people wouldn't hear it. Its not very long eve t eithet. Could try and tune it out but wondering if blending in 110 would work for rest of summer until I can rebuild car and fine tune after car season. If so any suggested ratio? If retarding timing is best suggestion silly question but can I get wrench on distributor with the chrome housing? Offset wrenches I have are too short. The grommets and housing are original and fragile. Thanks for any thoughts. TravelTodd427
You can add Tetraethyl lead to raise the octane. Nasty stuff, wouldn’t recommend it but it does work and is available. Barring that you can buy 5 gallon jugs of high octane fuel at performance shops and mix some in with pump gas. I can even get 118 octane leaded racing fuel where I live. Not cheap but a gallon of this in a full tank of premium pump gas would raise the octane enough to prevent the pinging.
It’s not so much the initial timing that results in pinging, but the total timing and advance curve. Mixing in some race gas as NeverL8 suggested will probably take care of it for now.
In my 60 for drag racing I would mix 1 gal of 110 to 4 gal of 93. The engine liked it ! Bumped the timing 2 degs, then backed it off for street and 93 or 91.
You can get a wrench on the bolt but not sure how you rotate the distributor without taking the top shielding off. The L36 should be around 4*BTDC with vac plugged at idle.
The Chevrolet Power Manuals from the era recommend 36-40 degrees of total WOT advance for best power. That would be the sum of initial plus total centrifugal. Do you know the OE centrifugal specs for your engine? They are listed in the CSM and AMA specs that you can download from the GM Heritage Web site. It's lazy and can probably be improved, but you have to test your engine with a dial back timing light to see what it actually is as modifying the centrifugal advance was a common thing even back to when these cars were new. The most aggressive detonation-free map is best, but modern gasoline has slightly less detonation resistance than back in the day.
So it's up to you to obtain and post the data, and then you might get some decent advice.
Most "science" is based on data as opposed to some closed form set of equations like Einstein's Special and General Theories of Relativity, and without data you have no "science". Just ask any quack like "Dr. Fauci".
If it's no too much trouble for you, you might want to search for threads started by me and download my "tuning seminar" to get some basics on how to set an optimized detonation-free spark advance map for your engine.
I have an offset cro-foot wrench that was made by Snap-on it worked for years on my 67. Check them out they should still sell them, if not you can have mine for 20.00 you cover shipping.
Tom
Most "science" is based on data … and without data you have no "science". Just ask any quack like "Dr. Fauci".
Nearly spit out my iced tea at that one. Love the quip !
I am a big fan of the data on the GM Heritage Site. Thanks for that pointer I few years back - but I am unfamiliar with the “Chevy Power Manuals”. Any pointers to those as a resource ???
At this time in the late afternoon/early evening you should be drinking BEER (like me, and I'm sure Lars would agree), not iced tea, but anyway...
They were published by GM from the mid-seventies to the early eighties. I doubt if you can find "new" anymore, but used copies may be available on ebay and other similar auction/sell sites.
Other great reference books include "How to Hot Rod Small Block Chevy's" and "How to Hot Rod Big Block Chevy's", both published by HP books back in the seventies. Don't let "hot rod" fool you into thinking that they are just recommendations for some high overlap cams that high school Harry with his highjacker Nova can impress his cruise night buddy morons with a rumpety-rump idle. They have lots of recommendations for "invisible" interior mods for improving OE engine performance including pocket porting heads, most of which cost little if you are doing a rebuild.
David Vizard's books are also excellent references for "warming up" OE engines without going overboard and more. I don't know if any are still available from the publishers, but an internet search should show you what is available, new or used.
They were published by GM from the mid-seventies to the early eighties. I doubt if you can find "new" anymore, but used copies may be available on ebay and other similar auction/sell sites.
Other great reference books include "How to Hot Rod Small Block Chevy's" and "How to Hot Rod Big Block Chevy's", both published by HP books back in the seventies. Don't let "hot rod" fool you into thinking that they are just recommendations for some high overlap cams that high school Harry with his highjacker Nova can impress his cruise night buddy morons with a rumpety-rump idle. They have lots of recommendations for "invisible" interior mods for improving OE engine performance including pocket porting heads, most of which cost little If you are doing a rebuild.
David Vizard's books are also excellent references for "warming up" OE engines without going overboard and more. I don't know if any are still available from the publishers, but an internet search should show you what is available. new or used.
Duke
I just pulled out my old copy of Hot Rod BB's for my current 427 fix & rebuild. I read through it over and over way back in my teens - it's been so long since I pulled it off the shelf, it was like looking back into an old family photo album.
Thanks for updating my ancient pre-internet stone age references. I can't tell you how many revelations/problems I have solved sitting on "The Throne" back in the day.
The early "lap top" computers were too heavy and cumbersome to work with while on The Throne. I still prefer soft cover books and magazines in that environment.
I recall the '67 L-36 OE full centrifugal is 32 degrees. Add 14 and you have a max of 46 degrees total WOT advance, which is well beyond the Chevrolet Power Manual recommendation of 36-40 for best power.
You need to report specifically what the current centrifugal specs are if your post is to be of any use to anyone else.
I recall the '67 L-36 OE full centrifugal is 32 degrees. Add 14 and you have a max of 46 degrees total WOT advance, which is well beyond the Chevrolet Power Manual recommendation of 36-40 for best power.
You need to report specifically what the current centrifugal specs are if your post is to be of any use to anyone else.
Duke
I am guessing you did not read the part where I said my distributor was recurved.
34 degrees all in at 2800 rpm.
Thank you again for all the great advice. Will try a fuel mix as short term fix. Bought those wrenches. And planning to do a timing tweak after a big car show next weekend.
I am guessing you did not read the part where I said my distributor was recurved.
34 degrees all in at 2800 rpm.
Yes, I read your first post where you said your distributor was "recurved", but you didn't provide any actual data of what the new curve is, so I asked you for the current centrifugal and you say 34 degrees at 2800 max. Add 14 initial and you are at 48, which can't be the case.
34 total WOT advance, which is the sum of initial plus full centrifugal makes sense, which means total centrifugal is 20 @ 2800. Is that what you mean to say?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by SWCDuke
At this time in the late afternoon/early evening you should be drinking BEER (like me, and I'm sure Lars would agree), not iced tea, but anyway...
Duke
Duke and I agree on tuning, timing, and drinking issues. You'll get the same answers from both of us on each of those topics.
Lars