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So I’m putting side pipes on my car and ran into a question I’m sure you guys can answer for me. Does the spear trim rest on top of the mounting strip that the cover screws into or does it somehow slip behind it. The spear trim is “hooked” on the top and ends and seems like it should slip down over, rather than rest on top of,
the mounting strip. The only way to do that is to leave the screws loose and that makes no sense. What am I missing? My AIM’s doesn’t say.
It goes over the strip. Try sliding it on from one direction or the other. With those fat tires, you may need to remove one. Dennis
This & use multiple layers of tape to protect your paint. I only had one layer of blue tape & when the trim popped off while sliding & tapping with a rubber mallet It took a nice chunk of my fresh paint off with the sharp end of the trim piece.
Darin
Thanks guys. It seemed like a simple question but I’ve never done it before and I’m mocking everything up before I go to paint. Just to clarify, does it slip behind the rocker molding retainer or the side pipe cover? Good call on the tape. Thanks. Jeff
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C2 of Year Finalist (stock)
2016 C2 of Year Finalist
Post some finished pictures from both ends. I have been thinking of making the jump, but the purest in me keeps saying "no". Post pic of pieces you cut out with dimensions.
One more "lesson learned". Make sure you bend the front 2 brackets on the side pies to line up with the bolt holes before you rivet them on while test fitting. I bought new brackets because mine were badly rust pitted & I mistakenly assumed they would line up. Mine will come off again this winter to fix this since I can't get them to bend properly while riveted on.
Darin
I cut the front ears off at the existing body line and cut the 6 brackets leaving about 1/2” in case I wanted to weld them back on. I haven’t cut the rear ears yet and may not. The thing I stressed about most was cutting the keyhole slots in the frame and making sure they were in the correct position so the pipes would be positioned properly. I did as much research as I could then just went for it.
The engine is new, I dropped it in so I could finish mocking everything up before it goes to paint. The pipes look great but the engine hasn’t been fired yet and it’s coming back out before it does. It could be a month or so before I hear it.
The previous owner of my car (my next door neighbor) was in the process of rebuilding it from the ground up, but unfortunately he passed away. He also happened to own a paint and body shop for twenty plus years before he died. Before his passing he’d amassed 90% of the parts to complete the project (all new in the box) and had taken the body off and done all the repairs and painted it. When I bought it from his daughter, I got a finished rolling chassis and a hundred boxes of parts. He had painted it yellow so I sanded it down so I could take it back to its original Riverside Red.
What did you use to cut the slots in the frame for the rear sidepipe mounts, and any lessons learnes? I've got to do the same on my '64 frame.
Thanks,
John
What did you use to cut the slots in the frame for the rear sidepipe mounts, and any lessons learnes? I've got to do the same on my '64 frame.
Thanks, John
Years ago, when I put side pipes on my '64, I had no idea about 'keyhole slots" for the rear mount. I put everything in place and welded a bolt on the frame, put a round rubber shock grommet (I think that's what I used) in the hole and bolted it up. Worked fine.
Jeff,
Were those two holes already in the frame rail before you cut the slot? Can you post a current picture? I bit the bullet on a set of side pipes.
Jeff,
Are you asking this question because you're wondering if your '65 has the keyhole or not? Did you buy the side pipes for your '65? If so, all '65 - '67 frames had the keyhole punched in the frame, whether they received side pipes or not.
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