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I much prefer the reliability, simplicity, and invisible attributes of the SE Breakerless.
I was surprised to find the one in my (recently acquired) 66 has been in there for over 10 years.
I have a set of points and condenser in the glove box though.
I was surprised to find the one in my (recently acquired) 66 has been in there for over 10 years.
I have a set of points and condenser in the glove box though.
I've had this one in my car for at least 10 years with zero issues!!!
Good looking blue car you have. I noticed the soft top fits remarkably well. Is your engine still painted blue?
The soft top fits lousy, can’t latch it at the rear, too tight. No, couldn’t stand that blue with all those hoses so finally got that cleaned up. Thanks for the compliment!
Don't know what part number you have, but number 38131 uses the original resistor. From the instructions. Substitute coils that have a primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms are also compatible. Here is a link to 38131 instructions. JP https://breakerless.com/pdfs/92965073.pdf
Okay, I just installed the Breakerless SE and I have a couple of questions that I can’t find an answer to, and can’t get customer support today.
1. I don’t have a ballast resistor anymore. Do I need one?
2. I have two coils, one with a primary resistance reading of 1.2 ohms, the other 1.7. Which should I use?
3. I installed the 1.2 and I’m getting erratic readings on my tachometer. Does that mean I using the wrong coil? Is the tach bad?
Thanks for help you can give me
Quote from the Breakerless SE instructions:
COIL The Breakerless SE is optimized for use with either the factory original coil or Breakerless Replacement Plus series coil. Substitute coils that have a primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms are also compatible. Very low resistance MSD Blaster and Accel Super coils are supplied with a supplemental resistor to raise the primary resistance to 1.5 ohms. Failure to use this supplemental resistor will damage the Breakerless SE module. IMPORTANT: Ballast Resistor - This ignition is designed to work with the factory installed ballast resistor. The ballast usually takes the form of resistor wire that is part of the engine compartment wiring harness. It may also be in the form of a small white ceramic block mounted on the firewall in series with the +12V supply to the coil. Its purpose is to limit current to prevent coil overheating and point burning. The ballast typically has a resistance in the range of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms. The ballast resistor (or resistance wire) should not be removed when installing the Breakerless SE
Okay, I just installed the Breakerless SE and I have a couple of questions that I can’t find an answer to, and can’t get customer support today.
1. I don’t have a ballast resistor anymore. Do I need one?
2. I have two coils, one with a primary resistance reading of 1.2 ohms, the other 1.7. Which should I use?
3. I installed the 1.2 and I’m getting erratic readings on my tachometer. Does that mean I using the wrong coil? Is the tach bad?
Thanks for help you can give me
As Leif said, "Yes" you must have a ballast resistor. It was made very clear in the directions that came with my kit.
You also should have noted in your original question that you are not running a stock tachometer. Stock runs by cable off the generator, and you are running an alternator. Unless you have replaced the distributor with to a C2 style with cable output, you no longer have a mechanical tach. I am running an SE Breakerless with an electronic tach AND a ballast resistor and the tach is very stable.
Leifs right, I've had breakerless installed for 5 years with my original resistor. No issues. I don't have your electronic tach so I can't comment on that.
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