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Installing power steering in 66 BB and I don't see how GM fit these things. First, the belt is touching the frame with the pump adjusted all the way out. I cannot move the pump in closer with a smaller belt because the return line out the back of the pump is almost hitting the block now. This car has Vintage Air and I have put 2 shims under the left motor mount but the belt still hits.
Anybody ever deal with this?
Doesn't appear so from what I have found so far. The crank pulley measures 6.75" and the P/S pulley looks to be about 6" or maybe a tad larger.
Strange
Ah, I see now you already said that in your original post. I need to lift mine up to look at something so I'll look at this area too.
Do you have the OEM "Canned Ham" pump?
Ah, I see now you already said that in your original post. I need to lift mine up to look at something so I'll look at this area too.
Do you have the OEM "Canned Ham" pump?
My '67 has a '66 Corvette L-36 installed. The engine has all of the A/C brackets and a power steering pump. I'm pretty certain that the PS pump is factory. The car is non-power steering so the pump was never hooked-up.
If you like, I can go out in the garage this evening and take some pictures so you can see how it was installed. Just let me know.
That pump looks smaller than mine....so much room to adjust before hitting block.....maybe it's just the pic. Do you know what size pulley is on that pump? The pulley and pump diameter look to be about the same
Here is a top pic. The pulley has a larger diameter than the pump. Your pic 6T7 looks like they are closer in size. Curious what the diameter of that pulley you have there. Mine is 6.75"
It's hard to get in there and measure the pump pulley. It's the correct BBC dual belt cast iron pulley.
It's a little over 6". The crank pulley is a little less than 7".
Clearance from the bottom of the crank pulley to frame:
I added power steering to my two Bigblock Roadsters. On one of them, I wound up buying a PS takeoff from another Forum Member and since his was a smalblock, brackets and pulleys were needed but the PS pump was part of the kit
I bought from him. On the other BB Roadster, the parts I got were yet another 'relatively fresh' take off but no pump in that kit so I ordered one from Summit and it fit quite well and has the 'forward leaning' top tower and you can just make
out the return tube on the back. You can also see the belt I have on it and it wound up being a 45.5 belt. A slightly shorter belt 'should' make the top of the pump move inboard and also make the return pipe move outboard away from the engine
but I do remember, there wasn't a lot of adjustability in that tight cramped space.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Looks like I have the same pump with the forward leaning fill. Looks like you also have a tight fit with that return line next to the block.
Thanks Mike
Do you have a Muncie or have you installed a 5 Speed like me? To get rid of vibrations I had to raise the trans mount till it hit the tunnel.
That lowered the front of the engine and caused my slightly modified fan shroud to hit.
Do you have a Muncie or have you installed a 5 Speed like me? To get rid of vibrations I had to raise the trans mount till it hit the tunnel.
That lowered the front of the engine and caused my slightly modified fan shroud to hit.
That's interesting. I'm having the same issue with the TKX swap in my Mopar. I have the trans up against the torsion bar crossmember and I still get serious vibration at 80 mph. I bought a new set of tires, new axles, new driveshaft (to replace my other new driveshaft, SMH), and every other little thing I could think of. The car drives better, but it's still not fixed. I'm in the midst of major crossmember and trans-tunnel mods so that I can get a little more room to properly adjust my driveline angle. Hopefully, that will fix things, once and for all.
That's interesting. I'm having the same issue with the TKX swap in my Mopar. I have the trans up against the torsion bar crossmember and I still get serious vibration at 80 mph. I bought a new set of tires, new axles, new driveshaft (to replace my other new driveshaft, SMH), and every other little thing I could think of. The car drives better, but it's still not fixed. I'm in the midst of major crossmember and trans-tunnel mods so that I can get a little more room to properly adjust my driveline angle. Hopefully, that will fix things, once and for all.
I have had this same issue. I am doing my 65 GTO from the frame up. When I was in the process of reinforcing the frame with a Helwig kit, they suggested measuring everthing BEFORE welding. I found that with the pontiac engine and muncie on stock mounts the centerline of the trans output was exactly in line with the top of the frame. To get it back to this position a 3/4 block is needed under the rear mount on the TKX. driveline angles can be tricky.
BB power steering
