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Glad you got your problem solved - while you are at it............. You might want to take a look at how close the overflow tank is to the battery terminal. In this pic it looks real close............... Factory AC cars had the battery on the drivers side.
I received a significant amount of positive comments that I need to fix my fuel line. Can someone share a photo of the installed assembly so I can see how its all supposed to go together? I see chrome lines are available in a kit but I always thought it was originally stainless, not chrome. The fuel filter bracket that I found is also chrome, is that correct? I really want to get it right before I buy the parts!
Rick - regarding the tight fit between your expansion tank and battery top, as Tom pointed out, a lot of folks use the 24 series battery in a midyear but a number of us
switched to the shorter series 34 batteries instead because it's roughly one-inch shorter (with the other dimensions the same) and gives us a bit more clearance so less likely to contact the battery terminals.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
I received a significant amount of positive comments that I need to fix my fuel line. Can someone share a photo of the installed assembly so I can see how its all supposed to go together? I see chrome lines are available in a kit but I always thought it was originally stainless, not chrome. The fuel filter bracket that I found is also chrome, is that correct? I really want to get it right before I buy the parts!
Chrome bracket is correct for high HP engine. Picture below of installation.
Update for anyone who was interested in my problem. I finally solved it. I removed the choke completely (not needed here in Florida, I replaced the accelerator linkage with all correct components, installed the correct air cleaner and all was well except this constant shutoff while driving. It was becoming more frequent with each test drive. I finally thought maybe a coil issue so I started by tracing the coil wires. Keep in mind I bought this car sigh unseen and have zero history on it. BINGO, the wire from the coil to the ballast resister was falling off. The small screw and nut were on the verge of coming completely undone so the wire was flopping in the breeze. I removed the wire and the engine would not start. Then tightened it appropriately and Walla, this issue is resolved.
Thanks to everyone who weighed in to help me!
Rick
Isn't it nice when the solution is actually something very simple? It usually is, in the end. WE --or --I, for that atter, always seem to go for the complicated solutions first.
Another lesson learned.
Eddie
I purchased the Fuel Line kit recommended however When I removed my jury rigged tube from the fuel pump I learned that my fuel pump is a 3/8 line while this kit is 5/16. I'm looking for a nipple that will fit into the pump and reduce to the 5/16. Has anyone run into this problem?
UGH - the random shutoff is back. All seemed well for several days, then on my test drive post fuel line pump to carb test drive the engine again just shut off and while coasting immediately started back up without issue. You may recall that I discovered the coil wire to the ballast resister was falling off and I felt good that correcting that resolved the problem. SO now it will be trial by fire and my next step will be to replace the Mallory Coil and Distributor. Can anyone make this easier on me and tell me what distributor and coil I should buy? New reproduction or used? Does anyone have one for sale?
It appears that Mallory has a not so good reputation amongst the car people!
I've been researching and it seems that a factory distributor with Pertonix HEI Conversion kit and a Pertonix coil might be a good solution. Recommendations are appreciated.
You sure your bulkhead harness plugs are pulled, looked at and cleaned? Change the ballast resistor. Could go open when hot. They get hotter at idle with longer dwell. Failing that I would install a proper GM points distributor and coil.
Ok, I'll check the bulkhead and change the resister. I know nothing about Ballast Resisters, Is there a specific one that you might know of or will any do? Like aftermarket at places like Autozone?
First, review the Mallory installation instructions for the distributor. It could be a ballast resistor is not required and could be part of your problem if you have reduced voltage to the distributor. I can't see how it is wired.
The boot on the coil wire isn't seated well on the coil tower. Check and see if the coil wire is seated in the coil tower, if not, it could be arcing and causing a problem.
I am not a big fan of aftermarket as GM products seem to last longer and perform better. I would recommend a stock distributor, either rebuilt or new. Points work fine for 10 - 15,000 miles, then need to be replaced. I prefer points, but have the dwell meter to tend to them. Many guys like the Breakerless SE ignition module. It is all up to you.
I checked the bulkhead and it appears to be fine. The Mallory Unilite does require a ballast resistor. The coil wire appears askew however I have checked it multiple times and it is seated. I loosened it and pulled the coil up to take a pic of the part number for this posting. I have also removed the ignition shielding and still have had this random shutoff. The weird thing is that while coasting and within a few seconds of the event it fires right back up and runs well (until the next time). This is the hard part, whatever is causing the engine to suddenly feel like it's immediately and instantaneously out of gas is immediately gone as fast as it appeared. The engine fires back on so fast that you never actually hear the starter. It's hit the key and vroom
An instant shut off is generally ignition or the red wire syndrome. Do your electrical gauges and lights in the dash also lose power. Have you checked the bulkhead connections at the firewall? Intermittent total loss of power could be a poor connection at the starter on either battery cable or a bad cable or a bad connection of the red wire at the horn relay or other connections. I don't see a ground wire on your alternator and can't see the voltage regulator to see if there is ground wire there. Given the bad connection you found on the resistor, there may be more.
If the coil wire boot is allowing an arc to one of the posts, it could kill the ignition system. Look for traces of arcing in the ignition system.
You sure your bulkhead harness plugs are pulled, looked at and cleaned? Change the ballast resistor. Could go open when hot. They get hotter at idle with longer dwell. Failing that I would install a proper GM points distributor and coil.
Dan
I agree with you Dan. Especially about reinstalling the points. I had nothing but trouble with Pertonix and the return to points immediately solved my problems.
Eddie
I also agree wiyth Dan about the red wire/bulkhead issue as being very suspect with what you are describing. But, can’t a bad ignition switch cause similar symptoms? I’m asking, as I have not personally had a switch problem.
R66
Wires at the starter are tight
Bulkhead harness appears to be good and is tight
Starter wires are tight
Horn Relay appears good and tight
The ground wire on the voltage regulator was not loose but not as tight as it could be. I could move it with hand pressure. I've just tightened it up so that I could NOT spin the wire with hand pressure as I could just prior to tightening that up
I've not yet observed if I lose dash power but I must drive home that when the event happens it's all immediately back to normal within a blink of the eye, and this is no exaggeration, it is that instantaneous. I absolutely could be wrong but I cannot imagine a wire that is loose enough to cut the engine off but tight enough to within a blink of the eye start it back up and be fine for a while....except maybe that Regulator ground?
If you have a volt / ohm (VOM) meter, you can test the ballast resistor without 12v power on it - key off. When testing the resistor, first inspect it for cracks, then check the resistance. You may want to try to move it around during the resistance test to see if it opens up. Not likely a bad resistor unless it has a crack to break the resistance wire.
You can eliminate the ignition switch by running a jumper wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the input of the ballast resistor. Disconnect the wire from the ignition switch to the ballast and insulate it with tape. Then connect the jumper. Take it for a spin. Make sure the jumper connections are secure and you may want to put a small fuse (~10a) in the jumper although the 65 ignition circuit is not fused per my knowledge.
I am assuming the loss of power as well as the restoration are both instantaneous with no stumble. Although I don't see one, is there an amplifier in the ignition circuit??
You can also put a bulb in a socket and feed it from the IGN terminal of the fuse box (if the 65 has one) and mount the bulb in view on the dash. Or, you can put your VOM on the dash and monitor the voltage from the IGN terminal
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