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That's a thermal circuit breaker, could be part of the vintage air system
Tom
I agree it may well be opart of the VA system. . I just had VA installed on my 62 and the installer specifically told me that he Purposely did not install that fitting under the fender well due to engine heat and insta=ead, moved it inside the cockit behind the Pass Sider Kick panne.
You would best be served by consulting you VA packing list and install documents to see if such an item is listed or better yet call VA and send them the photo and ask them if it is part of thier unit.
Eddie
UPDATE 12-7-2024 - Just went for a 30 minute test drive. Exactly 9 minutes into the drive it once again shut off and immediately fired right back up. The remaining 21 minutes were without issue.
Changes made:
New Headlight switch - this resolved my dash lights not working and now 100% of all lighting is working as expected
New Battery Gauge - This resolved the fried Battery Gauge and this new gauge is now working as it should
Removed Ignition shielding from the distributor/Coil - As the failure continues it's a positive that the Ignition Shielding is not the culprit
I spoke to MSD support and they state that if it were the Mallory Coil that it would never start back up immediately rather it would take approximately 5 minutes before it would cool down enough to start. They are suggesting that I am intermittently losing a ground but as it immediately cures itself, good luck finding it.
UPDATE 12-7-2024 - Just went for a 30 minute test drive. Exactly 9 minutes into the drive it once again shut off and immediately fired right back up.
I'm at a loss - next step idea's are welcome!
Thank you,
Rick
I would try this:
Get it running. Then run a jumper between coil positive and the battery clipped on securely enough to survive a quick ride. Take it out for the 10 minutes it takes to rear its ugly head. If it quits as it has been than you know the trouble is ahead of the ignition switch and wiring. If it keeps running than you know to look for an intermittent in the ignition feed.
However, I and I bet others here are suspect of your Mallory ignition. Before now were I you I would have dropped in a standard points distributor and coil to rule all that red box stuff out. No one cruising a C2 around the countryside needs a Mallory or anything beyond the ignition Mother Delco initially provided. I understand racing and all that. These Mallory units are known to fail eventually. This is likely tripping you up.
That and your harness. These cars are worth the trouble to undo stupid wiring and accessories, really.
Thanks Dan, the jumper will be my next test. As far as distributor and coil do you have a recommendation where to buy? I see the vette dealers like Top Flight sell a multitude of HEI tach drive around $600 - UGH
Used on eBay for $350 + $40 shipping - claims to be disassembled, cleaned, lubed and ready to go
Rebuilt at J&D corvette for $350 with an additional $125 core. As I don't have a core this $475 + Shipping
Then what coil? Obviously I'm not an ignition expert
Thanks Dan, the jumper will be my next test. As far as distributor and coil do you have a recommendation where to buy? I see the vette dealers like Top Flight sell a multitude of HEI tach drive around $600 - UGH
Used on eBay for $350 + $40 shipping - claims to be disassembled, cleaned, lubed and ready to go
Rebuilt at J&D corvette for $350 with an additional $125 core. As I don't have a core this $475 + Shipping
Then what coil? Obviously I'm not an ignition expert
Pending better advice than mine from our friends here decide what you want to do long term. Just get it to run reliably and then assess? Or remove the prior owner(s) handiwork and install a stock Delco ignition. Not HEI. Stock. Why? They work and when they don't it's a 10 minute troubleshooting session followed by another 5 minute repair. Others here will point you to a good source for a stock tach drive distributor and coil both readily available. Zip Corvette likely has what you need.
Pending better advice than mine from our friends here decide what you want to do long term. Just get it to run reliably and then assess? Or remove the prior owner(s) handiwork and install a stock Delco ignition. Not HEI. Stock. Why? They work and when they don't it's a 10 minute troubleshooting session followed by another 5 minute repair. Others here will point you to a good source for a stock tach drive distributor and coil both readily available. Zip Corvette likely has what you need.
Dan
I bet a wanted ad in the C2 classifieds would bring up suitable Aunt Clara choices. The main failure spots for old-school Corvette Delco distributors are the bronze bushings wearing and the tach drive chewing itself up but both of those are pretty easily fixed.
I would try this:
Get it running. Then run a jumper between coil positive and the battery clipped on securely enough to survive a quick ride. Take it out for the 10 minutes it takes to rear its ugly head. If it quits as it has been than you know the trouble is ahead of the ignition switch and wiring. If it keeps running than you know to look for an intermittent in the ignition feed.
However, I and I bet others here are suspect of your Mallory ignition. Before now were I you I would have dropped in a standard points distributor and coil to rule all that red box stuff out. No one cruising a C2 around the countryside needs a Mallory or anything beyond the ignition Mother Delco initially provided. I understand racing and all that. These Mallory units are known to fail eventually. This is likely tripping you up.
That and your harness. These cars are worth the trouble to undo stupid wiring and accessories, really.
Dan
Just because you removed the distributor shield doesn't mean that the damage to the wires wasn't already done. You need to very closely inspect the wires running from the coil to the distributor and from the coil to the ballast resistor making sure there is no chaffing to those wires. Also, make sure the end connections are clean and tight.
Additionally, the black wire from the coil to the distributor may have a loose/bad connection to the ground plate inside the distributor...more common than you might expect and would cause the exact issue you're having.
Happy Holidays and Happy new Year to all. Hopefully this is my last post on my random engine shut off issue. I went and got a Delco distributor and it's out being restored now. Meanwhile I bought an Echlin ECH-12 and thought "what the heck" I'll install it now - this was Dec-21. I have since gone for 6 days of test driving without issue. Hmmm, so far it looks like it was the Mallory Coil all along. I'm still going to get rid of the Unilite distributor and go with the Delco once I get it back.
In conclusion, every issue that I have posted seeking the help from the awesome folks in this forum are now resolved.
Random Engine shutdown
Battery Gauge
Redesigned Crankcase Ventilation - new valve covers and hose routing
Throttle linkage
Air Cleaner
Fuel Lines
and other small misc things that the forum has made me aware of from the pics that I posted
Glad to see you have won your long battle. You have to be a little hard headed to drive these old cars. Once fixed proper they are reliable.
Congratulations and a Happy new Year to you!
As one who has also FINALLY solved all of his cars problems and is now Happily Bored with nothing more to do than Drive and enjoy the car, I completely understand!
Now, the only thing left to do is to sell this car and buy another one and start all over again so you have something to do!
Have fun.
Eddie '62
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Just because you removed the distributor shield doesn't mean that the damage to the wires wasn't already done. You need to very closely inspect the wires running from the coil to the distributor and from the coil to the ballast resistor making sure there is no chaffing to those wires. Also, make sure the end connections are clean and tight. 
