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Did you check or put new batteries in your VOM? Weak batteries will give erroneous readings.
Right now, I would not like your readings as they should increase with wire length and be consistent with the manufacture's specification for resistance per foot of wire.
I understand that max allowable ohm's are 5,000 ohm's per foot of spark plug wire. So if your longest wire is two feet, then 10.000 would be your max allowable. Of course you would hope that it would ohm out considerably less than that. I remember a post from John Z years ago mentioning 5,000 ohm/ft. max. Mabey somebody here on the forum could confirm this.
Wouldn't be the first set of LL plug wires I've had issues with. I've been able to "fix" them by re-crimping the ends. Sometimes where the center conductor is folded back under the crimp is compromised and creates poor / intermittent readings.
Attached article for our chapter newsletter I wrote the first time I ran into this.
The difference may be in the terminal crimps to the wires. If looking for a bad wire I would run the car in the dark. Someone once mentioned misting the wires with water. Then with a gloved hand, wiggle the wires around a little. With reproduction wires you will probably have a pretty good light show. My own experience with BB repro wires was intermittent shorting at the plug terminal ends that engine vibration was constantly wiggling some.
Just toss the wires. I wasted a bunch of time measuring (measured on spec) still poor running. Replace them now runs perfectly. Wires decay with time. Dump them and begin with a known solid baseline.
If you need or want dated coded wires, you're pretty well stuck with reproduction, graphite impregnated fiber core type. Not very reliable, at best. I've seen them break the core entirely inside the white insulator and black jacket, more than once. Made for some difficult diagnosis. A resistance test won't necessarily find that kind of fault, either.
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