I'm a new C1 owner (about a year ago). I have a '62 that's white with black interior AND a powerglide. It also has both tops, 3.36 posi, am radio for options. It was a Vette Vues cover car in 1984, along with owner history -- a very original car. How rare is this color and transmission combo? Anyone guess? Thanks.

 

There were 1532 62's built with Powerglide. White was a pretty popular color, as was black interior. There are no records which cross reference which options were built with what colors, or with which other options for that matter.
What strikes me as "rare" about the car you describe is that the Powerglide has survived unscathed for 41 years. As we "baby boomers" continue to age, we may see transmission swaps going back the other way, but for the time being the PG is still sort of an endangered species.

 

Any 62 in good condition is a rare car. Many out of the 14,000+ have been rebuilt , crashed, or scrapped for parts. Those cars are nearly 42 years old. I personally would like to know how many are actually left? 10% would only be 1400 in any engine configuration. :grouphug:

 

Eric,
I also have a powerglide C1, and I love it! it may be a little slower than a 4 speed car, but it has not been thrashed all it's life, and is allways the subject of conversation wherever I go! There are so few of the old PG cars left that many have never seen one. I had been looking for a PG car for over a year when I found mine which had been abandoned in a garage in the high desert of California for 14 years. For me, a four speed car was not really an option as I am 6' tall and over 240lbs, and could not drive one if my life depended on it! It is a good thing I live in a good weather state, because it is a real strain to drive it with the top up. I have to scrunch down in the seat and tilt my head sideways to keep the top bows from hitting me on the head.
:seeya


[Modified by John McGraw, 12:28 PM 2/18/2003]

 

Even with my 4-speed, I can approach a "STOP" sign in fourth gear, give it a "Pepsi Cola" stop (the PAUSE that refreshes), tap the brake, then give it "easy" gas without down-shifting...and it's just like driving a "Power-Slide" :thumbs: ;) :yesnod: :cheers:
:steering: Cruz :steering:

 

weihemuller...Welcome! This forum is for you :cheers: ! Ask all the question you want, one or more will be happy to share there experience and/or information with you. I like the description of your car, should be a fun driver. :yesnod:


[Modified by Bluestripe67, 12:55 AM 2/19/2003]

 

Thanks for all the great advice -- especially from the anti-powerglide guys! I looked for about 6 months before I found my "babied" '62 powerglide. However, I'm a hot rod, 4-speed shifting kind of guy by nature. I've had many hot street cars that I street raced, all with 4 speeds -- and I blew the tranny on all of them!!! I plan on having my 327 and powerglide professionally rebuilt with no corners cut -- including dyno sheets. For example, AFR (Air Flow Research) aluminum heads or Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, 284 HE roller Comp Cam, port-matched Edelbrock intake, BG Demon Vac. Secondary carb, MSD tach drive distributor, and headers with 2-1/2 Corvette exhaust. This motor will dyno at approximately 425-435 gross horsepower -- all on premium pump gas!

Combine that with an Art Carr transmission upgrades, 3.36 posi rear (the current ratio), and total car weight of only about 2800 pounds (because of reduced weight with aluminum heads, intake, water pump, carb, etc.) and this car will blow away ANY small block, and most big block Corvettes ever built by Chevrolet -- all with just the press of the gas pedal (no shifting necessary).

My goal is to have a totally stock looking exterior and interior '62 (except under the hood) powerglide car. By the way, the rims are new repo's 15X5 inch with BF Goodrich 205/70 T/A's. These are the widest tires that I could find to fit a 5 inch rim -- height of 26.3" and foot print of about 8". They look bigger than they are when on the car. I had the rims professionally painted (Ermine White) to match the car. With the square looking, blackwalls on a white rim and chrome hubcab, this car looks like a very nostalgic street racer!

 

Can you spell..."sleeper"! :eek:

 

Well, so much for the "survivor".

 

:nono: :nono: :nono: Different Strokes for Different Folks ;) :yesnod: :cheers:
:steering: Cruz :steering:

 

I know it sounds bad 62fulie (altering an original), but I will keep all my original parts. Besides, other than the "top end" of the motor and a few internal parts, the car will look like an original and be a number matching car. I plan to put the old Corvette 7 fin valave covers on it, keep my original air cleaner on the new carb, and use the Edelbrock Performer manifold with the oil filler tube in the front. In addition, I will paint the aluminum heads, manifold, and water pump orange to match the block. The disctibutor will all fit under the original ignition shielding, and I foget to say that the exhaust manifolds will be CNC custom machined Corvette Ram's Horn exhaust that are guaranteed to flow as good as "headers" until 6000 rpm! So, in other words, when I open my hood, you will have to look very closely to notice the changes.

 

With your plans in mind, a 4-speed may have been a better option.

Mark

 

Yeah, I know. A 4-speed with 3.70's would be ideal for street/cruising with my engine combo. However, what I'm trying to do here is do what Chevrolet would have done if they had the new and improved parts. So, I want to keep the matching number block, trans, rear end, and I want to maximize their potential -- yet keeping the car streetable, reliable, and sounding like an old Vette should (and, oh ya...FAST.)

 

The Vette valve covers ain't gonna work. You need crankcase ventilation. Check the archives on this subject.

 

BUT I thought he mentioned he was going to use the front oil filer tube ???

 

Still has to have the other end. Has to use the oil fill tube either with a sealed cap and PCV valve and hose to the carb as the "exhaust" end and an "intake" end from a valve cover to the air cleaner, or use the oil fill tube with a vented cap as the "intake" side and install an "exhaust" side from a valve cover with a PCV valve to the carb.

See the thread about two pages down entitled "Old Intake And Valve Covers On A Modern Block" for solutions. :thumbs:

 

Yes, the Edelbrock Performer intake has the oil filler tube boss, however, you have to punch it out. I will have this done when the intake is port-matched to the new heads. I will take digital pictures to show the motor when it's done, and I think you'll be amazed at how "stock" looking the motor will be until close observation -- did I forget to mention the 425-435 reliable, pump gas horsepower! I must confess, the only reason this 327 will make that kind of reliable street power is due to: Comp Cams aggressive roller cam, hi-perf alum heads with bowl work and multi-angle valve cuts, port matched Edelbrock intake, and Barry Grant carb, along with free flowing exhaust.

In addition, I was told by a couple of pro engine builders that the TRUE horsepower numbers were never quite as high as Chevrolet advertised on their small block chevys in the 60's. Don't know if this is true or not?

 

Did you ever determine if this car is truely a "survivor"? Now, IF IT IS, you need to understand that there is no such thing as "putting it back" after it has been modified. Then it is simply another restored car, even if you put the original parts back on.

I have nothing at all against modifications to old Vettes. I think they are great on the right car. In particular, mods that are nut and bolt reversable cause no harm to the car as long as you keep track of all the pieces and send them on with the car if you decide to sell it.

HOWEVER, in the event that this car proves to be a true "survivor", you might consider passing it on to someone else to look after and build a nice driver just like you want it from a different car. This would make both economic sense and sense for the preservation of an unaltered survivor.

If the car isn't really a good "survivor example, by all means do with it as you please.

If you are using the original 327 block for your built up engine, then the crankcase vent issue is much simpler. It already has a breather hole in the rear and all you need is to add the oil tube in the front. You can use a road draft tube or a PCV valve, your choice. If you are using a later 350 block, then there is no vent tube hole in the rear and you need to check the archives for the various solutions offered.

 

I don't believe its possible to do anything to the stock exhaust manifolds to even get close to the flow of a set of decent headers. I have asked many engine builders about this and they all tell me the same thing. I wanted to keep my manifolds but was assured that my 410 HP motor would lose at least sixty or more HP with a manifold no matter what I had done to it. I hope you prove that wrong.

 

i am sure on this 8 year old thread, whatever needed to be proven, was done a long time ago.

Doug