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I have discovered one of my headlight limit switches is bad as one of the connections has broken off. I have not been able to find a thread that explains how to replace this switch. Can it be replaced without having to remove other parts of the car? If so, what are the steps and if not, what has to be done to access it? Appreciate the help!
Corvette supply store.
1/4" or 5/16" wrench or socket (small battery operated socket driver)
open the hood to full extension
Get familiar with wrenching blind
2 bolts for either switch to remove
This project is done by feel not sight
dcamick is correct it's done by feel and maybe a mirror. This by the way is not a limit switch for the motor. It operates the headlight flashing warning light. Have fun.
You should place a bolt, or something like it, in the center hole of the hood support rod when it is in the up position. It is very easy to get so focus in trying to work blindly in the headlight area and not realize how often you touch and move the hood. You don’t want the hood to shut while you are working in that area.
Just in case you don't know.......That is not a limit switch.It has nothing to do with the motor or the limit of travel. The limit is mechanical, and is established by the "y" bracket adjustment. Unless you just want to fix it, like for judging or something.....
see below. I have modified the original post to correct false information about when the light comes on on the dash, and how the switch works. sorry for the confusion
Last edited by mike coletta; Feb 2, 2026 at 05:17 PM.
Just in case you don't know.......That is not a limit switch. Simply a grounding micro switch that turns the "headlight" dash light on. It has nothing to do with the motor or the limit of travel. The limit is mechanical, and is established by the "y" bracket adjustment. Unless you just want to fix it, like for judging or something.....
Lights must be turned on, and the buckets "up" for the dash light to be on.
In my terminology the buckets must be "up" for the warning light to turn off. To me buckets up means the headlights are rolled to the fully open position. The switches are connected parallel which means that if EITHER bucket is not fully open and headlights are on the warning light will stay on. These switches are "normally closed" switches that only open to remove the ground and turn off the warning when the tell tale switch buttons are pushed in to OPEN the switch and remove ground for the lamp.
In my terminology the buckets must be "up" for the warning light to turn off. To me buckets up means the headlights are rolled to the fully open position. The switches are connected parallel which means that if EITHER bucket is not fully open and headlights are on the warning light will stay on. These switches are "normally closed" switches that only open to remove the ground and turn off the warning when the tell tale switch buttons are pushed in to OPEN the switch and remove ground for the lamp.
When pulling the headlight switch out to its' full detent the headlight bulbs will illuminate and the dash red warning light will come on...and stay one until the headlights are rotated into their full open position. When I was a younger man, I would ride around at dusk with my headlights on, but not rotated, and that little red light would flash constantly. Brought back memories.
I just fixed mine as the light was not coming on mine.
I dropped the steering wheel and pulled out the instrument console as I thought it was the bulb where the warning idiot light comes on.Bulb was good!
After investigating a little further I found out that my wire fell off the limit switch and that is why it was not working. Hooked up wire and it works fine.I then checked the other side and that side did not have the switch at all. Just 2 wires hanging. On order with 2 screws. So it does work with only one limit switch hooked up.Get a good size vanity mirror.I used my wife's and it works great.
Be careful when you tighten those two small bolts down on the switch. The surface where those switch's mount to are not always perfectly flat or the casting has small irregularities to them. You can crack the switch really easy. Ask me how I know. What I had to do was put a very thin washer on one end between the switch and the casting to alleviate the surface irregularity so the switch would sit flat. Just what I ran into.
Thank you all for the insight and suggestions. Will definitely make a difference. I understood the role of the switch just didn't know what else to call it given that seems to be what the parts suppliers call it when ordering one. Hopefully will be replacing it this coming weekend!
You’re right. I frankly don’t know what I was thinking. Getting old sucks. Thanks for the clarification.
Originally Posted by 65GGvert
In my terminology the buckets must be "up" for the warning light to turn off. To me buckets up means the headlights are rolled to the fully open position. The switches are connected parallel which means that if EITHER bucket is not fully open and headlights are on the warning light will stay on. These switches are "normally closed" switches that only open to remove the ground and turn off the warning when the tell tale switch buttons are pushed in to OPEN the switch and remove ground for the lamp.
Headlight Limit Switch Replacement
When pulling the headlight switch out to its' full detent the headlight bulbs will illuminate and the dash red warning light will come on...and stay one until the headlights are rotated into their full open position. When I was a younger man, I would ride around at dusk with my headlights on, but not rotated, and that little red light would flash constantly. Brought back memories.
