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I have bled many master cylinders on the car. I prefer to bench bleed them, but if you do, do not push too hard on the spool as you can damage the rubber cups. If you bleed it on the car or on the bench, you still need to put a bleeding fitting on the outlet(s) to monitor the air movement.
I could be wrong, check your GM manual for directions.
let me add some context.
I bled the master in the car, a bled all the wheels twice it just seems like the pedal is too low. It goes to the same spot every time and is a hard pedal. I’ve adjusted the brakes. They’re all dragging just to touch. Is there anything I can do to raise the pedal?
Is this a new master cylinder? Is it single cylinder or dual? How much play do have before the pedal starts to move the shoes? Is it possible the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder has not been adjusted with minimal play / clearance before moving the spool in the cylinder?
Is this a new master cylinder? Is it single cylinder or dual? How much play do have before the pedal starts to move the shoes? Is it possible the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder has not been adjusted with minimal play / clearance before moving the spool in the cylinder?
New master, it is 1/2” when the shoes touch and 3” till the pedal stops. That leaves the pedal 2” from the floor. I don’t think there’s any adjustment in the push rod.
Is it a single (original type) master cylinder? or a (modified) dual type master cylinder?
Singles bleed just fine in the car. Duals sometimes need to be removed and bench bled, especially since they never get enough cylinder travel, when replacing singles.
Is it a single (original type) master cylinder? or a (modified) dual type master cylinder?
Singles bleed just fine in the car. Duals sometimes need to be removed and bench bled, especially since they never get enough cylinder travel, when replacing singles.
How about raising the rear of the car enough so that the rear of the master is higher than front. Any air will go to rear and should bubble out when you step on the brake pedal.
If pedal is hard and goes to same level every time it’s not air in the system. Brake shoes are moving too far, broken or weak return springs, or needs full proper adjustment. What caused you to start this process, is master cylinder new/rebuilt?
Chip
If pedal is hard and goes to same level every time it’s not air in the system. Brake shoes are moving too far, broken or weak return springs, or needs full proper adjustment. What caused you to start this process, is master cylinder new/rebuilt?
Chip
The car has been sitting for over 40 years I replaced all brake parts with original type equipment except the drums I’m thinking it’s possible they may be oversized as in turned 1 too many times
The car has been sitting for over 40 years I replaced all brake parts with original type equipment except the drums I’m thinking it’s possible they may be oversized as in turned 1 too many times
Years ago, 75 ish, the mobile brake guy had oversized shoes he sold for oversized drums... I used them on my Jeep and saw many others used.. Never had a problem... Check around to see if these are available IF your drums are too big..
Years ago, 75 ish, the mobile brake guy had oversized shoes he sold for oversized drums... I used them on my Jeep and saw many others used.. Never had a problem... Check around to see if these are available IF your drums are too big..
The car has been sitting for over 40 years I replaced all brake parts with original type equipment except the drums I’m thinking it’s possible they may be oversized as in turned 1 too many times
Did you adjust to lock then back off or just to drag?
Chip