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L79 Distributor Question

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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 06:36 PM
  #1  
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Default L79 Distributor Question

Ok everyone, after careful and extensive research and a LOT of help from members of this site, I've come to the conclusion that the issue that I'm having(WAY too much mechanical/centrifugal advance) is based on a problem with parts within the distributor. I will be checking shortly, but I believe that the problem is with either the weights, springs, and MOST likely, the limit bushing. I plan on installing new advance curve springs, a new limit bushing, and new weights, if need be. My question is, CAN i change those parts WITHOUT taking the distributor out of the engine, which I would obviously prefer, or does the distributor HAVE to come out to change those parts correctly? IF it has to come out, HOW big of a job is that, and is it something I can do myself, and reinstall it correctly, assuming I'm somewhat handy under the hood. I'm trying to solve a problem here, not create a larger one....any thoughts ? :banghead:
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 07:12 PM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (BigBlockThunder)

I have done all of the above with the distributor in the car. The hardest one was the limiting bushing because it goes on from under the weights and you've got to get it to fit into the slot. Small parts, Big fingers...... Just got to be slow, patient and use small tools.
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 07:40 PM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (Subfixer)

Pulling the distributor is not a big deal if you pay attention to the direction that the rotor is pointing. It only takes a minute and will make working on the distributor a whole lot easier. If you lose it, just be patient with a manual and drop it back in. The rotor will rotate as you drop it back in because of the gear angle. Go hmm; pull and rotate the rotor back a little and drop it back in.


[Modified by stngry63, 12:46 AM 11/15/2003]
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 08:26 PM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (stngry63)

I love common sense! That's the way to do it.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 03:59 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (paul67)

Pulling the dist is one of those things that once you do it a few times it gets very easy. There are two things that seem to confuse people. One The gear teeth are angle cut so the dist rotates as it slides down. The rotor needs to be positioned to the right of your mark. As it drops in it will rotate slightly. The second thing that seems to cause trouble is the oil pump drive slot alignment. Because the angle cut teeth rotates the dist, it will mis-align itself with the oil pump drive slot. If you remove the dist it will not drop back in without realigning the oil pump drive slot. I use my oil pump primer tool to turn the oil pump drive slot back slightly but a large screwdriver will work also. If you know how to align the oil pump slot and if you know how much to pre-rotate the dist, it is about a 5 min job to pull out dist and drop it back in.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 11:23 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (joe58)

Don't forget to line up the dimple in the drive gear with the rotor tip when you reassemble it.

Duke
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 03:03 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (SWCDuke)

All that is true....and to add the one thing...these guys gave great advice as to replace all turning parts in my dist.....did that and all problems are gone.

It is really essential to replace all these parts and the related bushings. At the end it is not a very great deal. We also replaced weights and springs and tested them on a dist. tuneup machine.

Added a breakerless ignition too.....best investment. :smash:
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 10:25 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (BigBlockThunder)

Put me in the afraid camp on pulling a distributer. When I change points, condensers, etc on my distributer I lay a magnet (on both sides) below where I am working atop manifold next to dist shaft. If I drop a screw or something the magnet gets. :cool:
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 10:36 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (Daren Schneider)

yeah, me too. Even though I would score myself as an accomplished home mechanic, something about pulling the distributor raises the gut fear of all diy-ers everywhere - having to make the dreaded "ok, come tow this car to your shop and make it run again cause I really f-ed it up" phone call.
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 10:41 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (ctjackster)

Just pulled my first distributor last night. The hardest part was getting the damn tach. cable off. I took lots of pictures to capture the rotor picture.

All you have to do is remove the cap, coil wire, hold down bolt, and tach. cable. Then you simply pull up and it comes right out.


Queston - is there any differnece between the 250,300HP low RPM distributors and the SHP distributors aside from advance curves and vacuum cans?


Brian
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 10:50 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (Allcoupedup)

Just pulled my first distributor last night. The hardest part was getting the damn tach. cable off. I took lots of pictures to capture the rotor picture.

All you have to do is remove the cap, coil wire, hold down bolt, and tach. cable. Then you simply pull up and it comes right out. . . . .
ok, let me refine my earlier post - I have absolutely no fear of my abilities with respect to taking anything apart - it's the putting it back together again and having the car start and run right part that gets me spooked! :D
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 11:27 AM
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Default Re: L79 Distributor Question (Allcoupedup)

Queston - is there any differnece between the 250,300HP low RPM distributors and the SHP distributors aside from advance curves and vacuum cans?
Brian
Nope - other than the curve and can (and the band around the base), they're all the same. :thumbs:
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