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What is the pro/cons of a quartz conv. clock. I am not interested in NCRS but have a matching powertrain relatively stock car (except tires, shocks, hoses, belts). I store the car over the winter for 4 months without disconnecting the battery. as as my clock does not work, the car starts up fine in the springtime. I really dont want to put a trickle charge on the car as I like the car cover on at all times.
If I convert to quartz clock does it run on a 9 volt battery and no juice from the car?
Can I convert back to original 5 years from now if I change my mind. Or does the clock get bubberized.
I have a quartz clock in my TF 67, don't use a trickle charger when storing (4months). Have a green **** on the battery which I use while storing. Start the car twice during the winter months. Just reset the clock in spring. 4 years and no problems. I do have a heated garage which I am sure helps. I do keep a tricle charger on my C5 when storing. :thumbs:
My original 66's clock works just fine....... but I unplugged it, and I don't miss it at all (if I want to know what time it is, I look at my wrist watch), to me not drawing down the batt when parked is more important.
I store the car over the winter for 4 months without disconnecting the battery. as as my clock does not work, the car starts up fine in the springtime. I really dont want to put a trickle charge on the car as I like the car cover on at all times.
I'd recommend putting a "green ****" on it, and disconnecting the battery during storage. You can run the leads from a "Battery Tender" in through the fender gills to the battery (they have a quick-disconnect plug to the tender) and plug it in once a month for a day or so to keep the battery from discharging and sulfating so you don't have to mess with the cover. My cars are stored for 4-6 months in my heated garage too; the Tender shows a green light after about 18 hours when used once a month. Although I don't use them, this is essential with a "restoration battery" - they're "old-tech" inside, and one deep-cycle discharge kills them; the old-tech plates sulfate, and they won't take a charge; you can't bring them back to life. :thumbs:
Pros and cons as far as the clock movements go are ....
Quartz Pros- Accurate to a minute a year
Pulls milliamps Vs Amps
No Points ...plastic movement ,nothing to oil hardly any wearing parts.
Doesn't change any cosmetics at all ,plugs in the same.
You will see some advertise a battery powered quartz movement but they have to hack up your case and install a 5 dollar house clock movement ....not the way to go.
Cons on Quartz
Does hurt you on a seriously judged car
Has a steady second hand sweep VS the tick toc like a mechanical
....
The quartz is the way to go in my opinion ....just alot better movement.
If your car is that original I would not convert to quartz. They are cheap to convert but original, working clocks are very expensive. If yours hasn't been messed with, it's probably an easy fix. Usually, just lightly sand the contacts and squirt a little WD on the gears. Mine hadn't run for 20 years and it took about 5 minutes to get it going again. That was 5 years ago and it's still running. Don't convert, buy a cheap watch instead.
VERY iNTERESTING :skep: :skep: :skep:
I cannot get over the pt deduct from NCRS. Despite the fact that I am not interested in NCRS, I feel the car is so original (and more importantly has not been messed with) that I will probably stay with the original movt. By the way, my thinking has come around full circle. Thanks for the replies.
If this forum was not so good, I probably would have sold the car by now. :D :cheers: