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From: 1961 Red w/White coves 85,532 Original Miles
CLutch return spring 1958 ?
I just received a new clutch return spring for my 1958, it looks like something you would use to hold up the garage door. Has anyone tried, or better yet, put one of these on before? I tried to pull it apart and about blew me unmentionables off. This can't be right.
Yes, it's right - that's the "Godzilla spring", which functions as a clutch return spring at one end of travel, and goes over-center as you depress the pedal and provides an "assist" in overcoming clutch pressure with the old-tech 3-finger Borg & Beck-type clutches of the day. If you have a more modern diaphragm clutch (which GM adopted in '63), you shouldn't use the spring, as it can cause the pedal to stay on the floor at high rpm.
Unless judging is an issue, just use a clutch return spring like the midyears use, from the upper cross shaft lever to the firewall.
I'm glad I saw your post. I'm putting together a '56 and just got the clutch return spring. At first I thought someone had sent the wrong spring and then I wondered how the heck I as going to get it on!
Guess I'll look into setting something up like a the midyears since I'm not interested in having the car judged.
I have the godzilla spring with a diaphragm clutch, as I had not read or heard of John's advice prior to installing it. I've logged only limited miles, but no problems as of yet.
If you do go with the big stock spring, it's not that hard to install using the shop manual procedure. Don't try to muscle it in...that's a hernia waiting to happen.
I recently asked the same question on this forum and received several good replies. One involved using a Crescent wrench on the upper spring perch, but I haven't tried it yet. However, I ordered the CD "Corvette Restorer" from the NCRS and found a detailed article on how to fabricate a special tool to install the "Godzilla" spring. If I can pull it off the CD tonight and save it to email, I will try to send it to you. It involves making a tool out of threaded rod to draw the spring open from the upper spring attaching point to the lower welded frame bracket. The fabrication of the tool, requiring welding skill, appears to be the most time consuming item. Once the tool is made, installing the spring would take maybe five minutes max. It will be a while before I install my spring as the lower bracket is needed on my frame. Perhaps someone on the Forum has the welding equipment to make the tool and then could rent it out to cover the costs of the materials and time. Hope this helps.
Here is the info that I had previously wrote (about installing the C1 return spring).
No special tool is required other than a large Crescent Wrench (12" or so). Assemble the spring at the bottom, then assemble it onto upper bracket (the bracket that bolts to the cross shaft), then assemble the bracket to the cross shaft using the bottom bolt only (leave this bolt loose so that the bracket can pivot in relation to the cross shaft). Then attach the Crescent wrench to the top of the bracket (across the upper end of the bracket - about a 1" gap at the Crescent wrench) and pivot the bracket into place and insert the top bolt. Adjust the bracket via the Crescent wrench (in relation to the cross shaft) so that the specified effort is obtained at the pedal, and then tighten the 2 bolts (see the ST-12 for adjustment procedure - you do have the ST-12 don't you?).
From: 1961 Red w/White coves 85,532 Original Miles
Re: CLutch return spring 1958 ? (Plasticman)
Thanks for the info on the installation. I now know that the spring is right and that it can be installed. I'm still thinking that if my garage door spring fails I know of something I can use until a replacement can be obtained.
If properly adjusted, you will like this spring quite a bit, as it assists pedal return (decreases pedal effort). I tried the Mid Year spring setup that JohnZ advocated, and did not like the increased effort.
I do have a diaphram clutch and have had no problems with banging gears (clutch always releases properly). Just make sure that your clutch adjustment is per the pressure plate manf.'s spec. Example: My adjustment is .040" (measured with a feeler guage) as measured between the pressure plate or flywheel surface and the clutch disc when the pedal is to the floor (this is called the air gap method of adjustment and requires 2 people to adjust it - one to put the pedal to the floor, and the other to measure and make the adjustment). If too much air gap is present, then the pedal can hang on the floor (no clutch engagement) at high RPM.
I must admit that I had given up on figuring out how to get that "garage door" spring on my car. The previous owner had used a weaker replacement spring. Decided to pull out the one I bought using the guidance from this threat and it was a piece of cake. Thanks guys.
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