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I'm trying to remove the steering wheel and associated stuff so I can install the new directional harness and cancelling cam.
I removed the horn button cap and the large nut on the steering column but when I pull on the part of the column that the steering wheel is connected to it wont come off the column.
Do you need a special puller? When I pry on it it just seems to want to spring back.
What is the correct proceedure?
It is not telescopic.
You'll need a steering wheel puller, or you risk damaging your wheel. There should be two threaded holes in the steering wheel hub near the centeral bolt. These are used to connect the puller with bolts. The puller has a central threaded bolt that you tighten to push against the stud that the large nut you removed was threaded onto.
I'd recommend getting a Craftsman combined Harmonic Balancer/Steering Wheel puller for convenience, as it can prove very useful for other work as well.
I have used a harmonic balance puller for this task for years, but you can buy a steering wheel puller at any auto parts store for around $10 if you don't think you might need the harmonic balancer puller someday. If money isn't a big object, spring for the dual purpose puller.
I hate to look stupid but here goes.
I bought the steering wheel puller and it worked great.
Now I'm trying to replace the directional cable and I can't feed the connectors down the steering column or get the old one out.
Do you have to pull the whole steering column out of the car?
That bezel that goes around the column and screws under the dash is in the way along with the housing that holds the directional assembly.
Am I missing something ???
How do you get the connectors fed through the little holes???
I'm told Friday June 25th is drive your vette to work day and it looks like I'll be driving something other than my 65.
Any tips would be great.
For the turn signal harness - I used a very small precision screwdriver and inserted into the tab for each 'blade' of the harness. Then, from the back side pulled the wire out of the harness, down the column, and inserted it into the new harness, but not all the way. That way, I new the order the wires went in, but the metal blade did not 'click' into the plastic and require the screwdriver removal method.
Kyosho's got it. I did the signal replacement a while back. You need to remove the wires from the cresecent-shaped connector on the pigtail of the switch. The small screw driver slid into the proper side of the connector to release the tang works well. Feed the wires through the slot in the bezel, etc. and then reconnect them to the connector by pushing them in til the little tang on the spade snaps in place. I used and awl to scratch letters (cuts down on the "bonehead effect") indicating which color went in which slot (or make a good drawing before you start pulling wires out of the connector).
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