Front Seal, 1963 Diff.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Front Seal, 1963 Diff.
My front seal on the rear-end is leaking, uglying up the bottom of the car. Is this easily replaceable? (looks like NOT!) Or is it a case of while your'e this far into it you might as well ...... Thanks in advance!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 386
Likes: 3
From: Chapin SC
If and when you change it make sure the pinon splines are not pitted. I had my seal replaced when the rear end was out of the car and didn't know there was pitting. All back together and it leaks a lot thru the splines.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
I've done it a couple times. Once with a new crush sleeve and once without. As long as you crank the torque wrench untill the nut is at least back where it started (mark it and the pinion with a punch or paint before removing it) - you don't have to worry about the crush sleeve replacement.
It's a pita working in the hole while laying under the car, but hey - it's a Sting Ray. The only thing almost as much fun as driving one is working on it. You'll have a big grin on your face when it's done.
It's a pita working in the hole while laying under the car, but hey - it's a Sting Ray. The only thing almost as much fun as driving one is working on it. You'll have a big grin on your face when it's done.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
If you will look in the 1970 up shop manuals it will tell you that the end of the splines on the pinion yoke should be sealed with a non hardening compound! This will prevent leaking when the yoke is placed back on the pinion shaft. Since the yoke slides over the pinion shaft and seals to the rear end by way of the pinion shaft seal. The splines are prone to leak. I guess GM knew there was a problem with this and revised the shop manual. By putting this on the yoke before it's installed back on the pinion shaft will make sure you don't have any leaks after you are done.
The Permatex number when ordering is 2A. We use this stuff in my shop and it works real good. You can pick this up at Napa, or any of your local FLAPS.
Red
The Permatex number when ordering is 2A. We use this stuff in my shop and it works real good. You can pick this up at Napa, or any of your local FLAPS.
Red
Last edited by REDRED62; Aug 3, 2004 at 11:32 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,068
Likes: 27
From: St. Joseph Mo
Did mine on a drive-on lift last April. Follow the directions in the chassis service manual. I hope your pinion nut isn't locktited like mine was. You may need to have someone jam a screwdriver in the u'joint on each side to prevent pinion turning when you remove/replace the nut.
Don not attempt this laying on your back with the car on jack stands. You need lots of manuver room.
Don not attempt this laying on your back with the car on jack stands. You need lots of manuver room.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 388
Likes: 1
From: Bridgeport CT
Make sure you have a 63 differential
Sir:
The front yoke seal on a 63 and (possibly some) early 64 is different and not interchangeably with the later 64-79 yoke seal. Often the whole rear differential assembly has been swapped out of one Vette into different model year. Therefore make sure yours is actually a 63 model before ordering the seal or you may be delayed. You can easily determine which rear you have by examining how the front cushion mounting bracket attaches to the front differential mounting boss.
On 64 and later models it mount with 2 long bolts using castle nuts and cross drilled for cotter pins. Then run side to side right through that lower differential mounting boss. Those holes are not threaded and thus use the castle nuts.
In 63 these is only 1 of the long bolt using a castle nut, and cross drilled for a cotter pin. Instead of a second long bolt, the 63 use 2 shorter bolts – one of each directly threaded into a tapped hole in the differential mounting boss.
So if the brackets has 2 castle nut mounts showing it’s not a 63.
Geoffrey Coenen
PS Wanted: nice 69 L-89 convertible. No project.
The front yoke seal on a 63 and (possibly some) early 64 is different and not interchangeably with the later 64-79 yoke seal. Often the whole rear differential assembly has been swapped out of one Vette into different model year. Therefore make sure yours is actually a 63 model before ordering the seal or you may be delayed. You can easily determine which rear you have by examining how the front cushion mounting bracket attaches to the front differential mounting boss.
On 64 and later models it mount with 2 long bolts using castle nuts and cross drilled for cotter pins. Then run side to side right through that lower differential mounting boss. Those holes are not threaded and thus use the castle nuts.
In 63 these is only 1 of the long bolt using a castle nut, and cross drilled for a cotter pin. Instead of a second long bolt, the 63 use 2 shorter bolts – one of each directly threaded into a tapped hole in the differential mounting boss.
So if the brackets has 2 castle nut mounts showing it’s not a 63.
Geoffrey Coenen
PS Wanted: nice 69 L-89 convertible. No project.
