I have a 1962 fuel injected vette and want to convert it to a carb. Any suggestions on best method.

 

I'm using a performer intake on the 62 with a 600 Holley, not my first choice for the carb but the best fit. I don't think I could get a Qjet on this intake and still close the hood.

There are plenty of junk later GM intakes that are super low profile and super low on performace, stay away from them. You could look around for one of the early manifolds, problem here is everyone thinks they are gold plated.

 

Just box up your FI unit and ship it to me. I will provide you with a manifold and carb. Please be sure to include all the small parts, and of course the distributer. I'll also provide a tach drive distributer. All this stuff came off my 62 when I put the fuel injection BACK ON.

Seriously, why on earth would you want to convert the car to a carb?

 

Thanks for the info. I just want to try to keep it running and not spend all my time working on it.

Don

 

Yep, in a box on the shelf is a good place for the injection. The same place I have my 65 setup, in several boxes in the shop, and no it's not for sale!!!!!

 

1. I know nothing about the fuel injection used on these cars. But my understanding is that if you can get it set right, it'll stay set for a good long while. I believe most people send them to somebody for refurbishing. I think it'd be a shame not to use the FI unit. It should be able to be fixed and made to work right.

Your problems aren't all over with an intake manifold and carb. That set up is costly and brings with it its own set of problems.

2. Any Chevy manifold will work. Aftermarket aluminum ones are about $250. The 340 HP manifold for '62s which will look the best will run over $500. When you swap back to FI, you'll get your money back on the OEM one, but not the aftermarket one.

3. Correct carb (3269S) will also run over $500. You can get a 3721 replacement for around $250. You can get an aftermarket replacement (Carter 9600 something or Edelbrock 1406, I think) for around $250.

4. You'll also need the 340 HP fuel line and filter with the 3269 or 3721 ($40). Or make a fuel line with the aftermarket replacement Carter or Edelbrock. Edelbrock makes a nice one with a filter for around $50.

5. The correct air cleaner will fit the 3269 or 3721. A repro will cost around $250. The correct air cleaner base won't fit, and can't be made to fit, the aftermarket carbs. You're on your own finding an aftermarket air cleaner to fit under the hood; clear the fuel line and throttle linkage; and, fit the aftermarket carburetors. I couldn't.

6. You'll screw around, but you will be able to work out choke and throttle linkage interfaces.

7. You could throw any old swap meet intake manifold on there - $100. Fit a swap meet carb - less than $100. Pray that a $35 rebuild kit will make the carb good as new. Run rubber hose from the fuel pump to the carb - just like Bubba. Hope the car doesn't catch on fire. Finish off with a Summit drop base open element air cleaner - $40. You don't need a choke to run in the nice weather that you usually run this car in. But do you really want to drive around a car with pressurized rubber fuel lines?

 

One real good reason to stick with the FI is that you DON'T have to work on it. Another is that your car is much more interesting with it installed and worth as much as $15K more if you should sell it. Other than that, a carb will certainly get you from A to B.

 

Seriously Don,

Why do you NOT WANT to use the Rochester system?

 

That's where the FI for my '62 is Bought it 9 years ago when I couldn't decide to go "original" or "crate"!
Cruz

 

My '60s intake has the part ## for a '62. I planning on doing a 2x4 setup for it this winter, so if you're not in a huge hurry.. I got the intake and air cleaner you'll need.