Winter Undercarriage Project
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,397
Likes: 35
Winter Undercarriage Project
Come the end of October the car goes up on jack stands. My frame and trailing arms are clean with the exception of some occaisonal crud and some sporadic peeling chasis black. I have essentailly no rust.
My approach is to:
1. use WD40 and brush
2. follow with wire wheel on a drill, as needed in a few spots
3. prime any bare metal exposed
4. paint with frame paint/chasis black
Once everything is clean of debris, what would anyone suggest for surface preparation prior to any paint. I've heard that wiping down with laquer thinner is good? Any suggestions to prepare the surface prior to painting? How about for paint - GM frame paint? Chasis Black?
Once it gets cold I am on my way.
My approach is to:
1. use WD40 and brush
2. follow with wire wheel on a drill, as needed in a few spots
3. prime any bare metal exposed
4. paint with frame paint/chasis black
Once everything is clean of debris, what would anyone suggest for surface preparation prior to any paint. I've heard that wiping down with laquer thinner is good? Any suggestions to prepare the surface prior to painting? How about for paint - GM frame paint? Chasis Black?
Once it gets cold I am on my way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 101
From: Riverhead New York
Cleaner
I like to clean with Castrol, Super Clean. (White bottle, Purple label.) Just spray directly from bottle, rub or whatever, and flush with clean plain water. (I use Windex). It's water soluble and very strong! Wear gloves and eye shielding and be careful. I do not like the idea of Lacquer thinner in a confined space for a variety of reasons, all safety related. I would paint area after it has dried from Windex wash without worry. What year and color is your car. (Looks like 67 Lyndale in posting.) 
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
I completely cleaned my frame this past winter and found that my DeWalt 6" angle grinder with 4" wire wheel was my best friend. Followed closely by the 2" wire wheel for my drill. The angle grinder worked best because of the high speed. It would actually cut thru and throw off any grease and crud it would come in contact with plus the wire would give enough to get into most areas.
Once I made the big mess and got almost everything off that I wanted I washed it down in the garage. I then degrease with Greased Lightening which work pretty well. Then followed by paint prep. Two coats of POR and two coats of Rustolem enamel. I brushed it all on and both flow very well with no brush marks after it dries. I scuffed the surface between coats after letting it dry for awhile. It turned out pretty good.. Dave
Once I made the big mess and got almost everything off that I wanted I washed it down in the garage. I then degrease with Greased Lightening which work pretty well. Then followed by paint prep. Two coats of POR and two coats of Rustolem enamel. I brushed it all on and both flow very well with no brush marks after it dries. I scuffed the surface between coats after letting it dry for awhile. It turned out pretty good.. Dave
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 267
Likes: 18
From: Vergennes Vermont
Undercarrage
I Would Like To Know How To Protect Those Suspension Parts That Came From The Factory Unfinished. These Parts, And There Are Many, Tend To Start To Form A Coat Of Surface Rust.
I Was Advised That I Could Clean Them And Use Clear Fingernail Polish. Any Ideas??
I Was Advised That I Could Clean Them And Use Clear Fingernail Polish. Any Ideas??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,397
Likes: 35
It's not a 67
The car is:
66, 300HP, SB, 4 speed factory air, p/s, leather
Trohpy Blue (about 1100 made, even less with the A/C)
body on restore about 8 years ago, not used much
I looked at about 10 cars before buying - invested time, travel, and dollars only to find alot of cars misrepresented (rust, alot of body damage, or not original. Most peole wanted @ 38K or so.
This car had a few minor issues - radiator leak, soft brakes, occaisional leaky hose, but was otherside fine. I picked it up for less than 30K (delivery included) which left me alot of room to work with since I do most of the stuff myself. Alot of good things about the car - from Texas (no rust), all original except repro knock offs, and minimal body work. The paint is laquer (about 7.5/10). One day I will repaint with base/clear when I am done with my laudry list of projects. So far, I have tackled the following:
radiator
master cylinder
pads
clutch
hood adjustment
fluids
hood realease canble
tune up
rear sping
p/s hose leak
tranny and diff fluid
cleaning
The dog is:
3.5 y/o Golden female
great dog
she is a hunter - has rid my yard of moles, voles, rabbits, squirrels, and chip munks
66, 300HP, SB, 4 speed factory air, p/s, leather
Trohpy Blue (about 1100 made, even less with the A/C)
body on restore about 8 years ago, not used much
I looked at about 10 cars before buying - invested time, travel, and dollars only to find alot of cars misrepresented (rust, alot of body damage, or not original. Most peole wanted @ 38K or so.
This car had a few minor issues - radiator leak, soft brakes, occaisional leaky hose, but was otherside fine. I picked it up for less than 30K (delivery included) which left me alot of room to work with since I do most of the stuff myself. Alot of good things about the car - from Texas (no rust), all original except repro knock offs, and minimal body work. The paint is laquer (about 7.5/10). One day I will repaint with base/clear when I am done with my laudry list of projects. So far, I have tackled the following:
radiator
master cylinder
pads
clutch
hood adjustment
fluids
hood realease canble
tune up
rear sping
p/s hose leak
tranny and diff fluid
cleaning
The dog is:
3.5 y/o Golden female
great dog
she is a hunter - has rid my yard of moles, voles, rabbits, squirrels, and chip munks
