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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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You wrote in a recent thread that you swiss-cheesed the vacuum reserve tank and now have the headlights running directly from engine vacuum. Can you explain how you did this? Or is there a paper somewhere explaining it? Thanks!

Brett
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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It is very simple. Actually carguy4sure did this and finds the lights work better. There is a vacuum line comming from the engine that plugs into the vacuum tube. There is also a line from the vacuum tube to the light to activate the acuators. Just unplug the vacuum line from the motor to the resovior and hook it directly to the line going to the actuator. Splice in a Tee to operate the 2 actuators.
I haven't done this in years so just going off memory but just follow the lines and eliminate the resovior.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:01 AM
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Why did you hole the tank instead of removing it? Is it load-bearing?

Brett
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
Why did you hole the tank instead of removing it? Is it load-bearing?

Brett
If I removed the tank I would have to build some structure to support the front end. I was able to take a 39 pound tank down to 19 pounds and at the same time it still supports the front end . At high speeds there is alot of force on the front end and if you remove this structure you might have problems with cracking.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 12:51 PM
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Thanks!

Brett
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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Ah! Had to think about that structural thing for a minute... I'm used to the case-of-beer-sized tank on the driver-side fender in my 68. I forgot they moved to the front end later on...

A bit slow on the up-take! Sorry.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CGGorman
Ah! Had to think about that structural thing for a minute... I'm used to the case-of-beer-sized tank on the driver-side fender in my 68. I forgot they moved to the front end later on...

A bit slow on the up-take! Sorry.
This is not a case of beer sized tank. It is a total structure across the front of the car
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 02:08 PM
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That's a lot of freakin' holes! How long did it take to drill them all?
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CGGorman
That's a lot of freakin' holes! How long did it take to drill them all?
A couple of hours , only a few sizes of drill bits, didn't break one. If you are dedicated and really want to shed pounds it is not that much work for the weight reduction. 20 pounds for a few hours work.
I removed 12 pounds from the 4 rotors alone with 920 holes, counted those.
It bugged me that my new 18 inch torque thrust 2 rims weigh more then my old centerline auto drags.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If I removed the tank I would have to build some structure to support the front end. I was able to take a 39 pound tank down to 19 pounds and at the same time it still supports the front end . At high speeds there is alot of force on the front end and if you remove this structure you might have problems with cracking.
Norval,mines completely gone,no cracking at 190mph or wheelstands but I did smooth the whole front end.By the way you will receive your tracking number via email. along with some 35mm pics of my car. ,also my headlight buckets are gone that was a lot of weight up there too.probably keep the support unless you did what I did .mike

Last edited by big632; Apr 20, 2005 at 08:00 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Hi Mike. I am anxiously awaiting the new billet fuel door and will have to post pictures. YOur car must have some typle of support up front. I need my lights, don't want to change to anything else and I feel the added support of the gutted/acid dipped/drilled stock tube would do the job.
I completed the car last night, set it down on the ground and prepared to call the insurance today only to find the weather is falling apart. Prediction rain and about 45 as the high for the weekend. Guess I will just have to wait.
But it is hard....
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