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To make the line straight and parallel to the tube centerline, I laid the tube on a flat table and then got my 4' level and set it next to the tube so that they touched. I used the level as a straight edge and marked a line with a Sharpie. I then marked off the opposite side at half the circumferenc, or 6.28" (for a 4" OD tube, circumference is 12.5664". Formula for calculating is 2x3.1415xradius) and used the level again as a simple straight edge.
Cutting was done with a pneumatic cut-off tool, by hand. It's not as perfect as it looks, but the cut edges aren't as visible as you'd think once the shield is mounted.
I would have rather cut it on my table saw, but it was burried under other unfinished projects and I didn't have a suitable blade. I've never had much luck getting a bandsaw to make cuts like this without the tube twisting (like a spiral) as I cut.
I am a mechanical contractor by trade, I build Ice plants, chemical refrigeration packages, etc. from the frame up and I must say you did an execllent job on those.
I found something the works better than having to bolt on the brackets. It's called Ultrafuse and it can be used to repair/weld aluminum. No welding experience is needed, only a propane torch. Just heat the area you want to weld and apply the ultrafuse just like applying solder. Then you don't have to worry about drilling holes into the shield.
Got a chance to drive the car this weekend for the first time since I installed the shields. They get good-n-warm. Hot enough to let you know you're touching them, but not hot enough to blister...unless you react really slow. I'd say they maintain about 150 degrees.
Some time I may bend up new brackets with a .375" stand off instead of the .250". I don't think I'm getting enough air under the shields...
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
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