Craftsman Torque Wrench Help
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Craftsman Torque Wrench Help
Anybody know how to repair, or calibrate this wrench? The handle seems to have let loose, and has about on inch of slop in it
There are 2 nuts inside the handle seperated by a plastic collar, one on the outside of the collar and another on the inside. They mount to a threaded rod that runs into the main shaft..
Oh btw, only 1 year warranty on a torque wrench..
It is a Craftsman clicker style 'microtork' model 9 44476. I hate to go buy a new one if this can be fixed...
Opinions please..
Steve
There are 2 nuts inside the handle seperated by a plastic collar, one on the outside of the collar and another on the inside. They mount to a threaded rod that runs into the main shaft..
Oh btw, only 1 year warranty on a torque wrench..
It is a Craftsman clicker style 'microtork' model 9 44476. I hate to go buy a new one if this can be fixed...
Opinions please..
Steve
#2
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by OldSchool
Anybody know how to repair, or calibrate this wrench? The handle seems to have let loose, and has about on inch of slop in it
There are 2 nuts inside the handle seperated by a plastic collar, one on the outside of the collar and another on the inside. They mount to a threaded rod that runs into the main shaft..
Oh btw, only 1 year warranty on a torque wrench..
It is a Craftsman clicker style 'microtork' model 9 44476. I hate to go buy a new one if this can be fixed...
Opinions please..
Steve
There are 2 nuts inside the handle seperated by a plastic collar, one on the outside of the collar and another on the inside. They mount to a threaded rod that runs into the main shaft..
Oh btw, only 1 year warranty on a torque wrench..
It is a Craftsman clicker style 'microtork' model 9 44476. I hate to go buy a new one if this can be fixed...
Opinions please..
Steve
A friend in the Vette club had the same problem. SEARS wanted more to calibrate it then it was to buy on new. Best way in my opinion is to either buy a new one (Harbor Freight for $20) or to rebuild it as best you can and then calibrate it yourself.
To calibrate your wrench you need some known torques. Whilst there may be error (lets say 5 -10%) this should be effective if you don' want to spring for new. Borrow at least one other torque wrench from a friend, preferably a torsion bar type. Torque down a bolt to a value witht the borrowed torque wrench on something that is not attached to the vette!
Now starting way below the other setting start testing your rebuilt torque wrench. It should click on the first try as it is set below the OTHER wrench. Now add 5 FTLBs and try again. When you are close to the value of the other wrench you should get to a point before or just after where it won't click. ie You just found the torque setting on your wrench that corresponds to what the bolt/nut was torqued at.
Was the error large? Small?
Repeat the test for different torques and with a different torque wrench as a baseline. If the error is small and constant then write/tape it to your wrench (add/subrtract +/- XX FTLBS). If it large then either rebuild your wrench and start from scratch or throw it away and buy another.
The key here is having a good baseline to calibrate too. If you had say ten Torque Wrenchs and you measured all of them there will be an error between them but it will be small. By checking your wrench against at least 2 others you can compare how accurate it is and then make an informed decision on whether you can live with it being out X% or not.
Hope this helps.
Pete
#3
If I was going to calibrate it, I would find some bar bell weights and make a fixture (socket and vice) and apply different weights at a given moment arm (length). This way you are not using someone elses un-calibrated wrench; you will, however, you will be relying on the accuracy of the weights and the length on your moment arm.
#5
Sears and other tool makers sell a torque wrench calibrator.
So if they're selling them, someone is buying them. I would call around some shops, somebody has at least one of them out there...
So if they're selling them, someone is buying them. I would call around some shops, somebody has at least one of them out there...
#6
Also, if you decide to calibrate it on your own, keep in mind that the distance from the handle to the axis of the rachet head is CRITICAL.
That's why instructions for using a torque wrench clearly state no breaker bars, and most will show you how to calculate (roughly) the real torque if there is some kind of extension put on the torque wrench that lengthens the distance between the rachet axis and the handle.
Remember too, that a torque wrench isn't a torque limiter, so it is easy and often overlooked that you can over-torque something with a torque wrench.
Not that it is impossible to do it yourself, but put it this way, if the bolt and/or nut is important enough that it has a specific torque rating it is supposed to be set to, the importance is kind of implied IMO.
That's why instructions for using a torque wrench clearly state no breaker bars, and most will show you how to calculate (roughly) the real torque if there is some kind of extension put on the torque wrench that lengthens the distance between the rachet axis and the handle.
Remember too, that a torque wrench isn't a torque limiter, so it is easy and often overlooked that you can over-torque something with a torque wrench.
Not that it is impossible to do it yourself, but put it this way, if the bolt and/or nut is important enough that it has a specific torque rating it is supposed to be set to, the importance is kind of implied IMO.
#7
Team Owner
I got one from Harbor Freight 1/2 for 12.00.
Originally Posted by stingry
OldSchool,
A friend in the Vette club had the same problem. SEARS wanted more to calibrate it then it was to buy on new. Best way in my opinion is to either buy a new one (Harbor Freight for $20) or to rebuild it as best you can and then calibrate it yourself.
To calibrate your wrench you need some known torques. Whilst there may be error (lets say 5 -10%) this should be effective if you don' want to spring for new. Borrow at least one other torque wrench from a friend, preferably a torsion bar type. Torque down a bolt to a value witht the borrowed torque wrench on something that is not attached to the vette!
Now starting way below the other setting start testing your rebuilt torque wrench. It should click on the first try as it is set below the OTHER wrench. Now add 5 FTLBs and try again. When you are close to the value of the other wrench you should get to a point before or just after where it won't click. ie You just found the torque setting on your wrench that corresponds to what the bolt/nut was torqued at.
Was the error large? Small?
Repeat the test for different torques and with a different torque wrench as a baseline. If the error is small and constant then write/tape it to your wrench (add/subrtract +/- XX FTLBS). If it large then either rebuild your wrench and start from scratch or throw it away and buy another.
The key here is having a good baseline to calibrate too. If you had say ten Torque Wrenchs and you measured all of them there will be an error between them but it will be small. By checking your wrench against at least 2 others you can compare how accurate it is and then make an informed decision on whether you can live with it being out X% or not.
Hope this helps.
Pete
A friend in the Vette club had the same problem. SEARS wanted more to calibrate it then it was to buy on new. Best way in my opinion is to either buy a new one (Harbor Freight for $20) or to rebuild it as best you can and then calibrate it yourself.
To calibrate your wrench you need some known torques. Whilst there may be error (lets say 5 -10%) this should be effective if you don' want to spring for new. Borrow at least one other torque wrench from a friend, preferably a torsion bar type. Torque down a bolt to a value witht the borrowed torque wrench on something that is not attached to the vette!
Now starting way below the other setting start testing your rebuilt torque wrench. It should click on the first try as it is set below the OTHER wrench. Now add 5 FTLBs and try again. When you are close to the value of the other wrench you should get to a point before or just after where it won't click. ie You just found the torque setting on your wrench that corresponds to what the bolt/nut was torqued at.
Was the error large? Small?
Repeat the test for different torques and with a different torque wrench as a baseline. If the error is small and constant then write/tape it to your wrench (add/subrtract +/- XX FTLBS). If it large then either rebuild your wrench and start from scratch or throw it away and buy another.
The key here is having a good baseline to calibrate too. If you had say ten Torque Wrenchs and you measured all of them there will be an error between them but it will be small. By checking your wrench against at least 2 others you can compare how accurate it is and then make an informed decision on whether you can live with it being out X% or not.
Hope this helps.
Pete
#8
The length of the handle is only critical when calibrating. When in use, it does not matter how long the handle is or where you apply the force on the handle as long as the wrench is calibrated correctly.
#9
Race Director
I have a Sears clicker type torque wrench that will "slip" at some points along its ratchet. That is so aggrivating. You will be applying torque to a bolt and get a good chance to bust your knuckles. I took it back to sears and I was informed of the one year warranty on torque wrenches. Grrrr!!!!!
#10
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Location: Denver Colorado
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Originally Posted by Eddie 70
I have a Sears clicker type torque wrench that will "slip" at some points along its ratchet. That is so aggrivating. You will be applying torque to a bolt and get a good chance to bust your knuckles. I took it back to sears and I was informed of the one year warranty on torque wrenches. Grrrr!!!!!
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
#13
Le Mans Master
Wow a 14 year old response, awesome..
fyi i gave up on harbor freight torque wrench..but they sell an electronic one that is pretty damn accurate surprisingly..i use it to compare my usa torque wrenches..just to compare especially low end of torque with 1/4 etc..brake bleeder screw...about 8 pounds
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...ter-63917.html
fyi i gave up on harbor freight torque wrench..but they sell an electronic one that is pretty damn accurate surprisingly..i use it to compare my usa torque wrenches..just to compare especially low end of torque with 1/4 etc..brake bleeder screw...about 8 pounds
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...ter-63917.html
#14
Team Owner
Go to e-bay and buy a 'beam' style torque wrench. Unless it gets damaged, there is nothing to go wrong with it.
#15
Pro
Here is a link to a calibration company in Jacksonville FLA http://firstcoastcalibration.com/. 20 years ago I calibrated instruments for the tool & die industry as a side line for my machine shop. A service for companies in my area. NIST traceable.
#16
Le Mans Master
Here is a link to a calibration company in Jacksonville FLA http://firstcoastcalibration.com/. 20 years ago I calibrated instruments for the tool & die industry as a side line for my machine shop. A service for companies in my area. NIST traceable.
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CA-Legal-Vette (11-07-2019)
#18
Le Mans Master
I’ve had mine forever and it did same thing. It’s been sitting dormant in toolbox. I took it to Lowe’s 2 weeks ago and they traded it. I pointed out that the new one only said 90 days but I didn’t have the original package but thought mine was lifetime. She called management and they said it was on the list to take back. Give it a try. I got a sweet new one in a case.
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
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Anybody know how to repair, or calibrate this wrench? The handle seems to have let loose, and has about on inch of slop in it
There are 2 nuts inside the handle seperated by a plastic collar, one on the outside of the collar and another on the inside. They mount to a threaded rod that runs into the main shaft..
Oh btw, only 1 year warranty on a torque wrench..
It is a Craftsman clicker style 'microtork' model 9 44476. I hate to go buy a new one if this can be fixed...
Opinions please..
Steve
There are 2 nuts inside the handle seperated by a plastic collar, one on the outside of the collar and another on the inside. They mount to a threaded rod that runs into the main shaft..
Oh btw, only 1 year warranty on a torque wrench..
It is a Craftsman clicker style 'microtork' model 9 44476. I hate to go buy a new one if this can be fixed...
Opinions please..
Steve
https://www.thomasnet.com/indiana/ca...0021202-1.html
#20
I just tried to return it to Lowe's and they would not, stating its not the same as ones in stock..... Well no sheat...……...They had me call some numbers, 1 in the Phillippines who I could hardly understand. Thjey said it had a 1 year warranty.....So looks like I'm fu_ _ ed...…………….So mush for lifetime warranty. Anyone else have any ideas?