When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 75 vert I just put a new radiator in and 2 12" electric fans (2000-2400cfm) with a 180 thermostat(didn't have a stat before this project) and a new 16 lb 230 degree cap. The reason for the electric fans was the shroud was in 4 pieces and the clutch was bad so this was cheaper. anyway.......I set the fans to kick on at 185 and off at 170 ish. I noticed that Ideling temp is about 210-215 when driveing its about 195ish so the question is..... is 1. 210-215 to high of an idel temp and 2. should I change the fan to kick on at 195 and off at 180ish Im also running 20-25% glycol (probly spelled that wrong) and the rest distilled water with water wetter. Just wondering if this is right or a bit to hot please let me know and any suggestion would be very helpful. thanks in advance. Mrtroutjedi.
Last edited by mrtroutjedi; May 11, 2005 at 07:10 PM.
because my fan kicks on at 185 and thats what the gauge temp reads Im pretty shure the gauge is correct (or they both just happen to be off the same amount)
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i don't think this system is designed correctly.....something is not correct .....the thermostat should be controlling the temperature....perhaps the cfm of the fans is incorrect? could they be wired/mounted so the fans are spinning inthe wrong direction? the fans should produce enough cooling air movement to keep the car at the thermostat setting....perhaps i can give you a couple degree rise for august stuck in traffic but not now...(i didn't notice where you live but i'm assuming its still moderate temps where you are)
Temps here are 90 to 100 every day and some times I get stuck threw three light changes and my temp stays at 180 even with the air running. Still have the original radiator electric fan and a stock clutch fan. Now the A/c at that time does not keep too cool so I rev up the motor to idel around 1,000 rpm to move more air threw the A/C front coils. The enging still holds at 180 to 185. Now the engine oil temp will go up to 200-210 if I hold high revs on the highway for a long distance and I do have an engine oil cooler.With out the oil cooler the oil temp goes to 270. But the engine stays 180.
A 180-degree thermostat will regulate the operating temperature so that the engine can't run cooler than 180-degrees. If your cooling system has sufficient capacity, the car will reach 180-degrees and stay there. If the engine temperature runs over the thermostat opening point, then you have a difficiency in your cooling system capacity.
Having electric fans that shut off below the thermostat is somewhat pointless if the system is working properly. If the electric fans shut off at 170 degrees and the thermostat is a 180, then what you're doing is running the fans to the point where the thermostat begins to close to get the coolant back up to 180. Of course, all this depends on where you're measuring the coolant temp for the fan switch.
Having the fans kick on just above the thermostat means that you're running the fans a lot more than you need to. If you're using the fans to mask a system problem, then they are not doing the job they were intended to do.
Generally, if the system has sufficient capacity and all the mechanicals (pump, water jackets, radiator flow, cap, engine timing and fuel mixture...) are right and you were using electric fans exclusively, then you'd want the turn-on point at around 220 degrees and the turn-off point near the thermostat point. Electric fans would rarely turn on once the car was over 30 mph or so since you should have sufficient airflow through the radiator at this point.
To me, it looks like you've got something working against you if the fans can't get the coolant temp to the thermostat point at idle. Your "underway" temp also shouldn't be above the thermostat.
ok then things I need to do to fix problem...
1. buy temp gun to check rad temp (looks like a trip to harbor freight horay! they just built on by the house)
2. check air fuel mix
3. check timeing
4. change fan on off set point to on around 195-200 on 180-185 off(sound good)
I know the fans are pulling air i can put a piece of paper on the ac condenser and it will stick there and put it behind the fans and it blows around.
Ill keep you informed thanks for the help
what made you go this route to begin with? perhaps your problem is poor water flow through the radiator
the radiator was leaking so i decied to replace. when I got in to the project the core support was rusted out the shroud had been cut into 4 pieces held together with tape and tie straps the clutch had half the bearings missing and there was no thermostat so i figed a electric fan would be cheaper rather than pay 250 for a shroud the fans and the relays together weren't that much so I saveing about 75 bucks doing it this way and I might gain a few h.p. in the process
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by mrtroutjedi
its a stock so i think a 4
it seems to me that you have insufficient flow of coolant through the radiator....what are we missing.....the hoses aren't collapsing are they...how old is the water pump?
and the lower radiator hose has a wire spring in it to stop it from collapsing?
yep
I ordered a high flow thermostat and a new sensor to come on at 200 and off at 185 so im gonna try to the timeing this weekend ( if I have time) and the parts should be here by monday( hopefully sat ) all depends on summit
Is the measurement point the same for the fans and for the gauge? i.e. is the gauge taken off the heads and the fans measuring somewhere on the radiator? That can be the difference in temperatures.
it sounds like the water pump is going bad to me. if you changed everything else out it wouldnt hurt to put a new pump on to help out. you should be able to pick up a new water pump at you local auto parts store and they are fairly cheap and a good investment.
i have the gauge sensor in the head and the fan sensor in the intake manifold,so no thats not the issue i just orderd the new sensor cause i dont want the fans running all the time ( my brain fart )
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.