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Old May 31, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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Default C-3 brakes

My 76 stops, has a stiff pedal, but takes a lot of leg to stop.

it has new calipers and rotors all around.

do you have the same problem?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:44 PM
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Default Air

Never Can Get A Firm Pedal
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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If you have power brakes, then the booster is probably going out. If you have manual brakes, is it any worse than before you replaced the calipers?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 06:27 PM
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Mine is very stiff. Oh yeah I have manual brakes.

First time the wife drove the Vette she said I think you need to look at the brakes because they don't stop very well. I said they stop just fine you just aint pushing hard enough.

Man talk about a difference when you get out of the '69 and get into the Cadallic CTS-V with 14.5" rotors and 6 piston calipers front and rear. Thanks God for seat belts on the first few stops.


.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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I love mine. I had a race shop install new capilers, rotors, stainless steel brake lines, and drain out old brake fluid. I love the brakes on mine short pedal, and very stiff.
Before all that they were pretty bad. Very soft pedal, brake light came on when the car started, and I think the calipers were leaky.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 07:59 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...161&forum_id=3

I highly recommend modern calipers as an alternative for people thinking of buying sleeved calipers. They don't cost any more and the adapter brackets are cheap.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 08:02 PM
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Had manual brakes. Went to a Hydroost and what a difference. Very little pressure to pin your eyeballs to the dash.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 08:18 PM
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I have the opposite problem. It takes a lot of leg to stop...but only because the pedal is too spongy/soft.

kdf
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 10:18 PM
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I suggest that you check for a restriction, brake hoses, brake lines, proportioning valve. My car stops fine with C3 manual brakes. Remove all brake hoses from calipers leaving hoses atached to the brake lines.
Insert each hose into a clean empty milk jug (4 jugs required). Remove top from master cylinder and fill both chambers with clean dot 3. Place top on m/c and sit in the car. S-l-o-w-l-y depress brake pedal till it bottoms out. S-l-o-w-l-y allow pedal to return to the top, wait about 10 seconds. Repeat 4 times then stop. Check milk jugs, you should have the same amount of fluid in each jug. If you have 1 jug with less fluid, replace that hose, if two rear with less, either a restriction between the proportioning valve & rear hoses or two restricted rear hoses or a faulty proportioning valve. not to say that you couldn't have multiple restrictions depending on condition of the system. If you have less fluid at the front jugs it's either piping, hoses or valve. All hydraulic brake systems need routine maintenance, with the exception of systems using pure synthetic dot 5 fluid. Systems flushed anually will last longer, it's a fact not an opinion. You don't need a retro-fitted bug sprayer with all the attachments to flush your system. I'm not saying you don't have a faulty booster, I don't even know if you have power assist brakes, what I'm saying is to CHECK everything FIRST, then recheck it BEFORE wasting money on anything. Anybody can change parts, the idea is to solve the problem first.
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