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502 CanAm Project Update

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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:02 AM
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Default 502 CanAm Project Update

Lots of progress but I didn't get to fire it up

More Pics under the avitar coming as soon as they are approved....




Tasks Completed this weekend...

Installed Rad Core support, rad/fan/oilcooler unit for good.
Reinstalled header/side pipe on Pass side after modding the frame to clear the O2 sensor in the jet hot headers (off by 1/2" DAMN)
Installed dip stick and moving the Knock sensor to the driver side.
Installed clutch linkage with rod ends (new lock and nut)
Installed rod end seals on Tie rod ends
Installed all new brake bleeder screws and rechecked all new brakeline connections and gravity bled for now. need better job later
Installed new battery mounts, +- Cables, and Battery
Installed new ground straps from engine to frame, cage to frame and fuel sender to frameGravity bled power steering Steeroids and hydraboost after new custom lines
Build relay mount for fuel pump starter and fan relays from S10 blazer parts
Finished fabbing up fuel pump, and fuel cell, Test fit ok, waiting for new style sending unit this week that works with foam for final assembly. Need to run some temp lines to test fire. uses 87 vette pump and sender.
Installed new diff mount bushing and bolts, cleaned and painted diff mounting bracket
Installed new poly Trans mount and Electric speedo sending unit
Removed old "stock" fuel line.

Parts that arrived last week waiting to be installed:
new driveshaft with spicer joints - painted and prepped
New Stewart Warner instruments
4" wide rubber belting for road scraping front air dam
New supples of 3/16 and 1/4 inch closed end pop rivets, weather pack connectors, and Otiker band clamps
New L&R shock mounts, french locks and 1/2 shaft bolts for axle flange
Steering column bottom bearing and associated parts (causing steeroids to bind slightly)
New door frame, hinges, and doors for bat compartment

Parts arriving this week:
misc AN fittings
New Fuel level sender
more rod end seals in 5/16(Clutch linkage), 5/8 (to finish my 6 link strut rods), and 3/4 (steeroids idler)

Parts/tools/material to order this week:
0.062 alum sheet for console, doors, floor and bat/jack doors
Bead roller
4.5 or 5" cowl hood cant decide Rib or Flat


Last edited by 84rzv500r; Jun 14, 2005 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:12 AM
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Looks good. I have a question or questions about your wheels. Can you give me the name of the wheel, the size, backspacing, and do you have to run spacers to clear the calipers. I need some inexpensive wheels and I like the look of yours. Thank you.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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You should really enjoy a 502 I don't envy the amount of man hours that you have in this project.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CrossedFlags77
Looks good. I have a question or questions about your wheels. Can you give me the name of the wheel, the size, backspacing, and do you have to run spacers to clear the calipers. I need some inexpensive wheels and I like the look of yours. Thank you.
Basset Front 15x8 3 inch backspace no spacers required and centers wheel in my flares. Rear 15x10 with 5 inch backspace and a 1.75" VBP adaptor with stock trailing arms, again to center the wheel in the flares.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 06:54 PM
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post some pics of the wheels so that we can see how they look filling up the flares..
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 07:21 PM
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See "My corvette photos"
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Looking good! Yes - we need more photos!! (Edit: checked out your photos. Lots of good ones!)

You're single I take it, with all the work you did this weekend.

I took my original fuel line out a couple of weeks ago. Man that was a real beech...

Last edited by Z-man; Jun 14, 2005 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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So there is no problem at all with caliper clearance. Cause that is exactly what I wanted to here.

Another question are you using the DOT approved wheels, or which design are you actually using?

Last edited by CrossedFlags77; Jun 14, 2005 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CrossedFlags77
So there is no problem at all with caliper clearance. Cause that is exactly what I wanted to here.

Another question are you using the DOT approved wheels, or which design are you actually using?
Yep, DOT wheels call them direct they are real nice to deal with. cheap and good to 200MPH
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 12:17 AM
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Sick car! Looks like one nasty ride.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 06:47 AM
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Man how I wish I could get that much done in a weekend Very clean assembly going into the gas tank Me thinking you're going to have lots of fun when done
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:34 AM
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"Clocks"


Clutch Linkage Installed (Note use of Oetiker Clamp on HB return Line)


Header bolts safteywired... Tip: Bend the ends over 180 degrees to keep from poking your fingers
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:49 AM
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When you get a chance could you take some pics of your cage and 4 inch rubber up front?
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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Looking good! Seems like you are doing it right. I'm jeleous of you for your motor!!!
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
When you get a chance could you take some pics of your cage and 4 inch rubber up front?
Cage pics are in "my corvette gallery" photos... "4 inch rubber"? fronts are 265/50R15

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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 06:31 PM
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I just looked at your first gallery page - sorry!

4" wide rubber belting for road scraping front air dam
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I just looked at your first gallery page - sorry!

4" wide rubber belting for road scraping front air dam
1/4 inch thick by 4" wide rubber belting for a haybine or flat pulley power transmission. 2 bucks a foot at the local tractor supply. This will be rivited to the front air dam and come down within a couple inches of the road, from fender tip to fender tip to do two things. 1. Force as much air into the rad as possible, keepping an area of low pressure under the car and 2. Look like a road racer...

I just finished assembling the fuel cell. I'll wire it up and put it in the car tomorrow night. I need to go over to the Big Rig Store and get a piece of 2" blue silicone hose to connect the input of the tank to the remote filler cap

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 12:42 AM
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This is 1.5 inch angle aluminum with self taping screws into the frame rails under the radiator with 5.5 inch rubber. Because of the high mounting location on my Daytona front end I reall need 8 or so inch rubber and use a larger aluminum stock

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 01:12 AM
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Gkull, I saw the way you sealed the bottom of your Daytona front end to draw more air into your radiator and thought of a way I could apply this to my car. I made a front air damn out of sheet metal and it has really lowered my temperatures ALOT. I thought I had some pictures of it installed but I will take some tomorrow.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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Mark, Great to see all your progress Just a couple of lesson learn inputs from my RamJet 502 install. Looks like you have the stock six quart oil pan on yours. I wound up having to switch to a kicked out Moroso seven quart pan to gain adequate ground clearance. the stock pan only gave me 3.5" and it wasn't long before I was the pan on racks and speed bumps.




What transmission are you going to use? If it is a manual tranny make sure you use the correct pilot bearing. the one they call out in the directions is incorrect for the Muncie or Tremec trannys.

Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Ramjet is very sensitive to that. I chased one down in my old headlight actuators that was small but caused major headaches with the MAP sensor.

There is probably more but can't think of them now. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions


Bullshark
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