I've got the engine pulled and one side of the suspension out. I have seen the pics from some of the cars here in which the engine bay is detailed and looks great. I have already started degreasing the frame and other caked on parts. My questions are:
What kind of paint did you use for the firewall, inside of the fenders, and on black rubber hoses?
What technique do use to get everything looking good. Did you use a spray can and /or brush for paint?
Did you take things apart and out of the car to paint them?
Did you reuse the the old nuts and bolts but just paint those as well?
Or do things look so good because you simply bought new parts?

 

I just spent the last 8 years restoring my 68 coupe and I did a combination of the things you listed.
I removed everything including every nut and bolt. Anything that was in good working order was fully cleaned and repainted the correct color as specified in the many books I have collected for this purpose. I used Krylon spray can paints as they were recommended by several on this forum and are available in the various color shades at local hardware store. ( I did not know there were so many different shades of black) I also used Eastwood frame paint whihc I sprayed and brushed on. Any parts that could not be properly reconditioned or were no longer in good condition were replaced with new and correct parts. I was lucky as I purchased my car in 72 and was second owner so no one had a chance to Bubba anything and the car was mostly original. I did everything myself except the machine work on the engine rebuild which was left to a local machine shop. I used Castrol Super Clean to remove most of the grease and dirt and also Simple Green cleaner. Both products are easily available, just be careful as the Castrol Super Clean is pretty powerful. Don't leave it on to long especially on aluminum. Use the Simple Green for lighter cleaning, it's less harsh. Then repaint everything and reassemble. When you are done it is very gratifying to see how nice everything looks and it doesn't take a bankroll to do it; just time and effort and a little patience.
Good luck with your project.

 

I forgot, a bench grinder with a wire wheel is a great help for making old parts look like new before repainting. Get's all the rust and discoloration off rather than just painting over it or replacing. Much cheaper also than buying all new especially since the new parts aren't always correct or better. This is true of the various fasteners, nuts, bolts, as well.

 

sandblast all the parts that u can then brush on por-15 and topcoat. also por-15 frame before topcoating. if u have an air compressor, a diegrinder does a much better job of grinding frame etc and is much easier. if u don't have an outside sandblaster harbor frieght has a 5 gallon blaster for around $80 to $100 that works great, that what i used. thats the easiest and best way to strip frame and parts. get er done.

 

It is well worth it to disassemble and sandblast and paint just like everyone has described. You will enjoy opening your hood at the shows. I pulled the engine and sandblasted the frame and surrounding areas.
Take your time and it will be well worth it.

Here's a '69 Torino Gt that I detailed for a friend. Same idea.

Before...


After...

 

What kind of paint did you use for the firewall, inside of the fenders, and on black rubber hoses?

 

I doubt the hoses were painted at all.

 

This is great information 79vetter as I am doing the exact same thing on my 72 LT-1. I removed my engine yesterday and was on the end of a high pressure washer most of the day today. I used a degreaser that my I purchased from Costco. It worked ok, but I would like to try the Castro super Clean... Please advise on where to purchase it. And also, where can I purchase the Eastwood frame paint? Thanks in advance. Don

Wow!!! 3joh that engine looks might fine, great job!!!!

 

Thanks for the compliments. The hoses were not painted. I mostly used rattle cans to paint the engine compartments, Rustoleum and the Lowe's brand sprays real well. Prep and primer is the key to good looks and durability.

 

SEM products (in my opinion) are the best rattle can paints on the market. Not only is the paint top notch, but the spray nozzle is also the best.

 

I bought gloss black spray paint from Rustoleum at Home Depot and sprayed it on the frame yesterday. It looks terrific in my opinion. I used a heavy duty wire brush on the end of my drill to get all the crud off. Then I used course sand paper on my Mouse sander to get the frame shiny clean. I didn't bother to prime first because the guy at Home Depot said that a light first coat is just as good as using an actual primer. Then a second coat to finish it off. I will post a pic tonite.

 

I bought gloss black spray paint from Rustoleum at Home Depot and sprayed it on the frame yesterday. It looks terrific in my opinion. I used a heavy duty wire brush on the end of my drill to get all the crud off. Then I used course sand paper on my Mouse sander to get the frame shiny clean. I didn't bother to prime first because the guy at Home Depot said that a light first coat is just as good as using an actual primer. Then a second coat to finish it off. I will post a pic tonite.

 

I had good results with Krylon. It dries quickly, too.

You don't want to paint hoses or wires - just degrease and clean them up. To keep the paint off of them when you spray - wrap them in aluminum foil. Easy on, easy off - works great!

 

I painted my engine compartment by brush with boat type one part epoxy. off white almost gray. Engine out.

70 deville body color -catalylized BC CC with the engine in Some hoses were painted so this can be done but should be painted out of the car. When things get moved it shows the black underbelly.
This is debatable going that far though, but is easily changed by buying new hoses, or installing painted ones.
DON"T paint wires! The paint cracks and you lose your color coding.

The caddy is gone but looked beautiful with the matching car color. A maroon color.

The Vette is pure joy to work on with the very bright IE. not black engine compartment color. My vette is white and should have been painted white too.

My suggestion
white or light color for engine compartment visibilty. Even pearl.
Body color for max glitz, this really sets off any car.

Catylized paint since it is everything proof and quite durable. Although my use of brushed boat paint proves just about any method/material seems to work, as long as its clean and scruffed.
A cheap airbrush could be used on small items.


I found out the hard way... replace any split lock washers. If you don't the old washer will break in half or at least a bolt hanging C. All my bolts on the A-arms were loose with the right top arm rotating off when the brakes were applied. Shattered fan shroud, ruined fan, creased radiator and loss of confidance in the car.
If its not loosened you don't have to replace it though. The re-use of very old lock washers breaks them and you can't tell this when assembled.

 

Here's mine. I used semi-gloss.

http://c3vettes.com/gallery/chris69-restoration1

 

very clean and very purdy. nice work

 

Nice looking and clean work I like your choice of Valve covers

 

Very Nice...

 

WOW... that is one great looking engine! Wish I had a friend like u to finish mine! Just kidding... I took my radiator out to have it rodded out... figured after 32 years, it was time to detail everything in there before I put it back in. Amazing how one little thing just keeps getting more and more pieces out of my engine compartment