Help, leak on floor, where?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Appleton WI
Help, leak on floor, where?
I just came back from a cruise to the mall and notice moisture in the carpet, passenger side. I pulled up the carpet and there was anit freese (green oily stuff) pooled on the floor (see "A"). But I don't see where it came from. no signs of leakage down the walls (see "B"). Earlier in the year I did notice a film on the windsheild at night; I know the heater coil is the problem here. How related are these events. What to do?
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,503
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh NC
A new seal kit for the air handler. Hoses.
And, if you're like me, plenty of spray paint to make everything look nice and new when you put it back in.
It's also a good time to re-seal the duct work--which you'll be removing.
The vacuum motors and linkages should also be scotch-brighted and lubricated.
It's a straight forward job, just tedious.
I've gotten my heater cores from Ecklers; they were exact fit.
And, if you're like me, plenty of spray paint to make everything look nice and new when you put it back in.
It's also a good time to re-seal the duct work--which you'll be removing.
The vacuum motors and linkages should also be scotch-brighted and lubricated.
It's a straight forward job, just tedious.
I've gotten my heater cores from Ecklers; they were exact fit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 83
From: Everyone needs something to believe in, I believe I'll have another beer. Wisconsin
Originally Posted by pmurray
When I make an order for a heater core, what else should I have on hand to fit the problem? ie. hose, clamps, etc. I don't want to keep waiting for parts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 176
From: Hillsborough NC
Dr. Rebuild has a very good seal kit. While you're in there, you probably should check the seal on your passenger side vent door and re-seal it too.
I'm currently going through all of this. I need to remove the dash to re-dye and re-seal the vent system. It'e a big job, but nothing has been too difficult, just time consuming.
If you're goona tear deep into it, do yourself a favor and remove the seats, they just get in the way.
I'm currently going through all of this. I need to remove the dash to re-dye and re-seal the vent system. It'e a big job, but nothing has been too difficult, just time consuming.
If you're goona tear deep into it, do yourself a favor and remove the seats, they just get in the way.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
Originally Posted by SLVRSHRK
Dr. Rebuild has a very good seal kit. While you're in there, you probably should check the seal on your passenger side vent door and re-seal it too.
I'm currently going through all of this. I need to remove the dash to re-dye and re-seal the vent system. It'e a big job, but nothing has been too difficult, just time consuming.
If you're goona tear deep into it, do yourself a favor and remove the seats, they just get in the way.
I'm currently going through all of this. I need to remove the dash to re-dye and re-seal the vent system. It'e a big job, but nothing has been too difficult, just time consuming.
If you're goona tear deep into it, do yourself a favor and remove the seats, they just get in the way.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 176
From: Hillsborough NC
Originally Posted by terry82
my p.s.vent door needs a new seal .how do you get the door out and where do i get just the door seal ?
Pull on the actuator assembly and remove the clip that holds the arm to the door. Once that and the spring are disconnected, the actuator will come out with it's bracket.
To remove the door, press the top hinge pin down (it's spring loaded) and pull the top of the door towards the interior until you can lift the door from the lower hinge pin. Pretty straight forward.
The door seal is sandwiched between the two panels of the door (riveted together). You will have to drill out the rivets to remove the seal. The Dr Rebuild kit contains the new seal, rivets to put the door back together and a new press on nut for the actuator-door linkage.
While you are in there, clean out the passage and be sure that the seam between the forward wall of the plenum and the fender (the seam you can see when you look through the vent from the center of the car) is sealed. The plenum is a part of the fender and if that seal is broken, heat from the engine compartment will come into your A/C system, which will degrade it's performance.
Assembly is the revers of the above.
Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Time to repair:
1) 5 minutes with "stop leak". (This worked for 8 years for me with no side effects).
2) 1 hour to replace heater core if you don't have that fancy, schmancy air conditioning...
1) 5 minutes with "stop leak". (This worked for 8 years for me with no side effects).
2) 1 hour to replace heater core if you don't have that fancy, schmancy air conditioning...
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: The Dirty, Dirty South
Originally Posted by jpatrick636
Test the new core before you install it. It does happen occasionally that they leak. Not a good thing to discover after installation.
(don't ask me how I know, lets just say I got lots of practice on this particular repair...)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 176
From: Hillsborough NC
Originally Posted by Contrail
AMEN!
(don't ask me how I know, lets just say I got lots of practice on this particular repair...)
(don't ask me how I know, lets just say I got lots of practice on this particular repair...)
Attach the sides of the valve to the heater core lines. The tube I got worked OK on the larger feed with cable ties. For the smaller one, I had to build up the diameter with electrical tape to get a good fit.
Use a bicycle pump to pressurize the tube/core.
Immerse the whole assembly in a bucket of water and make sure your tube to core connections are sealed.
Leave it overnight in the bucket. If the tube is still pressurized after a day, the core is good. If not, you should be able to see the leak point by the trails of bubbles.
Works well, I have mine in the utility sink as I type.