Interior still hot!!!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,065
Likes: 2
From: Smalltownville Michigan
Cruise-In 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by mapman
What is the condition of the hood seal? Open the hood, put a sheet of paper over the top of the firewall, close the hood, and see if you can pull the paper out. (Check several places along the firewall.)
If NO resistence is met, then hot air from the engine compartment is escaping past the hood seal and now is free to enter the air intake for the heater/AC.
If NO resistence is met, then hot air from the engine compartment is escaping past the hood seal and now is free to enter the air intake for the heater/AC.
damn, i never even thought of that one! thanks!!!! mine gets plenty hot there too!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Originally Posted by steves_77vette
One of the common mis-conceptions about insulation is where to put it. Putting insulation INSIDE the cabin is not going to help all that much. The reason is that the heat transfer is still getting into the cabin but is blocked from direct transfer where the insulation covers. The heat is still in the cabin and will go somewhere where the insulation ends. If you have heat coming in from the engine compartment or the exhaust, you have to block it from the OUTISDE before it even gets to the underbody. Themotec makes an aluminum sheet insulation with an adhesive back that should do the trick on the under body below the seats on both sides.
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 2
From: Flanders NJ
Originally Posted by TPIShark
I know the '76 and later cars had a vacuum-controlled hot water valve, that is usually missing. That might look a little more stock. It was pretty cheap from the local parts store, if I recall.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Originally Posted by mooneyd
That valve only shuts the hot water off when the AC is turned on. So if your AC is off you get the hot water thru the heater. When I had the T-tops off my feet where really hot so I added a ball valve in addtition to the stock one and it helps a lot.
Rich
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
Thermotec Products
Hi, I have the same problem with heat in the cabin area of my 70 Vette and I am going over to Summit to pick up my Thermoteck products for the heat shields under the foot rest area on the firewall side along with the spray adheadsive they offer, I 'll keep you informed, Jim
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
I've been working alot trying to eliminate the heat from mine as well. I found one of the greatest sources of heat is the heater/air cond box under the hood. After a drive, the exterior temp of the box was 240 deg. F. It's located less than 2" from the exhaust manifold which measured 550 deg. Even if you have headers that may run cooler, the box is still like a small oven, it's very thin and transfers the heat pretty well from the engine compartment into the ductwork. I made a temp. alumunium shield and put it between the manifold and the box and reduced the exterior temp to 120 deg. by taking the same drive on a similar day. That was only a test to see if it would work, I wouldn't recommend it as a long term fix, it's still in the same area and the aluminium transfers heat pretty well also, just a matter of time before the box would get hotter. I'm really thinking of using this stuff as a winter project. http://www.coollizard.com
I had a pretty long talk with them one day about it and it sounds pretty impressive. You have to buy a special gun to spray it.
Bill
I had a pretty long talk with them one day about it and it sounds pretty impressive. You have to buy a special gun to spray it.
Bill
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Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 2
From: Flanders NJ
Originally Posted by TopGunn
I've been working alot trying to eliminate the heat from mine as well. I found one of the greatest sources of heat is the heater/air cond box under the hood. After a drive, the exterior temp of the box was 240 deg. F. It's located less than 2" from the exhaust manifold which measured 550 deg. Even if you have headers that may run cooler, the box is still like a small oven, it's very thin and transfers the heat pretty well from the engine compartment into the ductwork. I made a temp. alumunium shield and put it between the manifold and the box and reduced the exterior temp to 120 deg. by taking the same drive on a similar day. That was only a test to see if it would work, I wouldn't recommend it as a long term fix, it's still in the same area and the aluminium transfers heat pretty well also, just a matter of time before the box would get hotter. I'm really thinking of using this stuff as a winter project. http://www.coollizard.com
Bill
Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: Dixie TN
I don't have an Ecklars book handy but, but before they used the foam collar the used a fiberglass mold covered on top by aluminuim type stuff. It was made to sit on a TH400, and it had four parts to hold it up. I'm not kidding about this get out your Ecklars book and find it. Sorry about my spelling i know its bad.
Later Al
Later Al
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
From: Allen, TX, USA
What is this thermotec material made out of? Is it flexible to be applied to the
external surface of the seat buckets and tranny tunnel?
Did the 80-82 cars have the tranny foam insulation? I've never seen it in the
AIM.
external surface of the seat buckets and tranny tunnel?
Did the 80-82 cars have the tranny foam insulation? I've never seen it in the
AIM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
Originally Posted by mooneyd
You're on the right track, but you need to use an insulating material, not one thats good at transfering the heat.
Ceramic is an excellent barrier to prevent absorption of heat by radiation which is what happens by the hot manifold being in such close proximity to the heater/air conditioner box. There are some roofing materials that are composed of some % of ceramic to help prevent solar radiation from heating up the structure.
Bill
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Originally Posted by adam
What is this thermotec material made out of? Is it flexible to be applied to the
external surface of the seat buckets and tranny tunnel?
Did the 80-82 cars have the tranny foam insulation? I've never seen it in the
AIM.
external surface of the seat buckets and tranny tunnel?
Did the 80-82 cars have the tranny foam insulation? I've never seen it in the
AIM.
http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/13500/13500.html
This is strickly for heat.....my 78 has a foam collar (barrier) glued to top of belhousing/tunnel.
Rich
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
From: Allen, TX, USA
Hmmm,
Ecklers says there was no tunnel insulation for 78-82 vettes.
But they will sell a insulation pad (dynamat?) for $45 for
the interior (under the plate).
Too bad its not on the outside.
Ecklers also shows the tunnel foam heat seal for 69-79 vettes,
but non, again, for 80-82's.
Was there a cooling problems for the tranny with the foam seal in place?
Would one be okay for an 81 ?
Ecklers says there was no tunnel insulation for 78-82 vettes.
But they will sell a insulation pad (dynamat?) for $45 for
the interior (under the plate).
Too bad its not on the outside.
Ecklers also shows the tunnel foam heat seal for 69-79 vettes,
but non, again, for 80-82's.
Was there a cooling problems for the tranny with the foam seal in place?
Would one be okay for an 81 ?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 1
From: Shore NJ
Originally Posted by flynhi
In 69, GM installed heat deflector plates that mounted on the engine side of the firewall on the footrest incline. Install these in addition to the Thermotec and your feet will cool off.
The foam collar that wedges between the bell housing and the trans tunnel also has a huge heat reduction.
Also check the boots where the clutch and accel rods go thru the firewall and the grommets where wires and speedo and tach cables go thru.
Two ways to check for holes in firewall:
1. place a drop light in the footwell, turn out the lights and look at the engine side of the firewall.
2. Have a friend blow compressed air all around the engine side of the firewall while you feel for air on the passenger side.
Each approach found a hole for me.
The foam collar that wedges between the bell housing and the trans tunnel also has a huge heat reduction.
Also check the boots where the clutch and accel rods go thru the firewall and the grommets where wires and speedo and tach cables go thru.
Two ways to check for holes in firewall:
1. place a drop light in the footwell, turn out the lights and look at the engine side of the firewall.
2. Have a friend blow compressed air all around the engine side of the firewall while you feel for air on the passenger side.
Each approach found a hole for me.
Best way to find a heat source or hole.............
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
OK, checked the vent in the pass side kick panel, it opens and closes properly, the rubber seal on it however leaves a lot to be desired. There were definitlely a few bare spots. However since this is open when the a/c is I dont figire thats my problem. I removed the screen on the pass side wiper compartment area and vucuumed out everything real good. When the a/c goes on the door in that area closes however there is a small gap, maybe the size of your pinky finger where I assume hot air could get through. Any ideas on how to seal that? Hood seal is good.
Also is there any direct correlation to engine compartment heat and a/c cooling properly. It seems that when I first start my car the a/c blows nice and cold but as the car heats up my a/c gets warmer. My engine will get as hot as 210 deg, another issue I'm workin on. I even went as far as ordering the $60.00 glass top shielding insert from Mid America to keep the sun from cooking the compartment and it helped but only a little.
Thx, ESU.
Also is there any direct correlation to engine compartment heat and a/c cooling properly. It seems that when I first start my car the a/c blows nice and cold but as the car heats up my a/c gets warmer. My engine will get as hot as 210 deg, another issue I'm workin on. I even went as far as ordering the $60.00 glass top shielding insert from Mid America to keep the sun from cooking the compartment and it helped but only a little.
Thx, ESU.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Hey just wanted to update everyone on some issues that I found with my car. Sorry it took so long, I was in Bowling Green last week checking out the new 'vettes being assembled!
I took the recommendation and got one of those IR guns to check temperatures...that thing is great.
After a long drive (and while driving), I found out that I had 120 degrees flowing out of my vents! I disconnected the heater hoses last month, so where's that heat coming from???
I also shot the heater box plenum from the inside of the car under the right-side dash. I got 150 degrees!!! That thing was hot! I shot the passenger side vent and it was roughly the same as the rest of the interior, so I don't thing it's leaking.
I did also notice about a 10 degree higher temp along parts of the tunnel, but I wasn't too concerned about those.
Any thoughts on the heater box???
I took the recommendation and got one of those IR guns to check temperatures...that thing is great.
After a long drive (and while driving), I found out that I had 120 degrees flowing out of my vents! I disconnected the heater hoses last month, so where's that heat coming from???
I also shot the heater box plenum from the inside of the car under the right-side dash. I got 150 degrees!!! That thing was hot! I shot the passenger side vent and it was roughly the same as the rest of the interior, so I don't thing it's leaking.
I did also notice about a 10 degree higher temp along parts of the tunnel, but I wasn't too concerned about those.
Any thoughts on the heater box???
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: webster ny
high temp debug
Originally Posted by 71SoCal
Hey just wanted to update everyone on some issues that I found with my car. Sorry it took so long, I was in Bowling Green last week checking out the new 'vettes being assembled!
I took the recommendation and got one of those IR guns to check temperatures...that thing is great.
After a long drive (and while driving), I found out that I had 120 degrees flowing out of my vents! I disconnected the heater hoses last month, so where's that heat coming from???
I also shot the heater box plenum from the inside of the car under the right-side dash. I got 150 degrees!!! That thing was hot! I shot the passenger side vent and it was roughly the same as the rest of the interior, so I don't thing it's leaking.
I did also notice about a 10 degree higher temp along parts of the tunnel, but I wasn't too concerned about those.
Any thoughts on the heater box???
I took the recommendation and got one of those IR guns to check temperatures...that thing is great.
After a long drive (and while driving), I found out that I had 120 degrees flowing out of my vents! I disconnected the heater hoses last month, so where's that heat coming from???
I also shot the heater box plenum from the inside of the car under the right-side dash. I got 150 degrees!!! That thing was hot! I shot the passenger side vent and it was roughly the same as the rest of the interior, so I don't thing it's leaking.
I did also notice about a 10 degree higher temp along parts of the tunnel, but I wasn't too concerned about those.
Any thoughts on the heater box???
I like the idea of the ball valve preventing hot coolant to flow to the heater core. I am going to implement this.
I will take some pictures - I think it would help explain things on the thread.