Be sure to clean them good..Think Thermo Tec gives instructions on that...I'm using Xtreme Dynomat 138 w/aluminum constraining layer..self adhesive...they say to use a residue-free solvent to assure bond...
Rich

 

When should that plenum in the pass side kick panel be open or closed? Mine is open on max a/c, the vent under the hood by the wiper compartment closes on max a/c.

 

rihwoods,
i used a deglosser called PASO for final clean before applying the insulating reflective shield.
Worked great.

 

Thanks...that saves me some time....
Rich

 

That's exactly right...

When you go to a/c max, it closes the outside "fresh air" door (located outside of the car, right side of airbox). Since the system is no longer able to pull air from the outside, it opens the inside kick panel flap to allow the inside air to be recirculated.

a/c max is the only time that those two flaps are in that configuration. All other climate settings use outside air. FYI - a/c max also closes the hot water valve.

 

Just recieved two sheets (12"x24") of thermo tec self adhesive insulation from Summit yesterday. Suggestions on exactly where to install it? Was thinking the Pass side footwell for the first piece. How about the second? Further back towards the cat or under the pass seat maybe?
Will be cleaned good and will prep the plastic.
ESU

 

I found what I think was a good price on thermo tec at speed zone 24-7. Sorry, I don't know how to put the link in here.

 

I put in a 3/4 ball valve (with a PEX end) that fit right into the 5/8 heater hose line. The pex end is just a tapered knurled type of end to fit into the hose. This has signifigantly reduced my heat problem. (79 L-82) But I still want to persue other causes. Specifically the insulation on the foot rests.....

 

I installed the thermotec sheets a few days ago. Took a lot and I mean alot of scrubbing to get those floorboards clean. Power washed, engine degreaser, gumout, brake cleaner, plastic prep spray, you name it. It stuck real well except in one spot where I couldnt scrub so well so I cut it short and will do that later when I can get to it. Did the pass side floor board starting right behind the heater core area and working down towards the rear end. Made sure I put some anywhere the exhaust ran close and also by the tranny. Next project will be to clean up the drivers side by the tranny and insulate that. When I wear shorts I can feel heat comin off the tranny hump console area.

. ESU

 

Was thinking of ordering some...my concern was adhesion....I may pop rivet mine on..but first must be convinced there will be at least a 20 F reduction....can you get readings with an IR gun of your footwells ? Mine on pass side run 120 F on 95 degree days...thermotec may be the best choice as it is stricky a heat barrier...
Rich

 

I dont have one of those IR guns, .

 

Only(1) is needed, and you can get it at any good hardware store. Get (2) 1/2" steel insert adapters and 2 new hose clamps and (1) 1/2" ball valve, remove the factory vacuum controlled heater shut off valve ( they all leak to some degree, even new ones) and insert the valve/fitting comination right where the factory valve was. No permanant mods. necessary, an dyou can put the factory valve right back in the winter if you need to.

 

I bought this heater control manual shut off valve at Autozone. I have not installed it yet, but I think it will look like it belongs. This is part number 84707, it cost $11.99 (last summer). I believe they have a couple sizes.

 

Yes, the 73 has those shields, you could clean the metal shields and apply heat shield reflective material to them also.....

 

Yesterday installed "Reflectix", (double foil with two inner bubble layers) on pass side footwell....ambient temps outside were 85 F...(Drove Vette on Hwy for test)
Footwell carpet before Reflectix = 110 F
After installation = 95 F
The interesting thing were exhaust pipe temps near footwell = 462 F and exterior surface of footwell =165 F....(the pipe being 4" away)
Based on this result I will not attempt to install Thermotec on exterior footwells....instead,I'm going to make a sheetmetal heat shield for the exhaust pipe (24" long) leaving 1" space between pipe and shield...the shield will be between pipe and footwell...The Reflectix cost $20 for a 48"x 10 Ft roll....part no. BP48010...it is for interior only as it's temperature range is -60 F to +180 degrees F....

 

my 73 has one of these heat shields on each side, i jet coated them!

 

Good idea....I'm going to test an exhaust pipe shield..simple to make and fit with hose clamps...using 16 ga galv sheetmetal...

 

My 74 has those heat shields too... I thought they were something a PO had put on there. They don't look very "factory"

Ed '74 SB Coupe

 

This thread has a bundh of good information so I figured I would post the information back to it rather than start yet another thread....

I just finished my interior rebuild which included gutting the interior and laying dound sound deadener (dynomat clone), a layer of reflectix and then the carpet set with jute backing. That significantly cut down the footwell temperature, but I was still getting no A/c benefit.

Long story short, I have a vacuum leak in th eline to the heater hose valve. When we applied vacumm to the valve (using a mityvac), the A/C went cold again.

I know many people are putting in ball valves to cut-off the flow, but this looks a bit odd to me under the hood so me and a buddy improvised a slightly different (yet still a bit bubba) solution.

We tee-d off one of the vacuum lines from the carb to the thermal flaps on the air cleaner housing. Now, when th eengine starts, full vacuum is applied to the valve and it shuts off the flow. The only downside is that when you floor it, the valve loses vacuum and the hot water starts flowing into the heater core.

It's still a bit bubba, but atleast it's stealthy bubba!

I'll fix the vacuum line, but atleast I can now drive with real A/C.

By the way, with the hot water shut-off, the A/C vents blow about 57 degree air into the cabin. I find myself flooring it every once in a while just to warm up.

 

"It's still a bit bubba, but atleast it's stealthy bubba!"

Well,don't do this.....



Tried a short cut by tacking shield to pipe...now I have to remove it,and set it up like I first thought...isolated from the pipe with clamps and an true air gap...

On your vacuum line,my buddy put a loop in mine,effectively shuting off heater control valve,but I have no heater...don't need it.
Rich