Shark Fever
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: Ashland, Kentucky
Shark Fever
I have to admit that I haven't done my research on this forum, but I have a few questions that you guys may be able to answer quickly. There is a guy at work that has a '77 L82, automatic, with 78,000 miles for sale. I havn't drove it yet or looked at it closely. It needs paint bad. It is dark blue and has blue interior. The owner said it needs a universal joint, he doesn't know if it is on the drive shaft or the half shaft. He said it whines while driving down the road. He said he also put a new carb in it. He said he put a Rochchester in it and he has the original that came out. The driver seat is worn and the dash has a couple of cracks in it. He also said the weather stripping is fair and doesn't leak. My first question is where can I find the build sheet on a '77? My '95 has a sticker under the rear compartment. Does a '77 have something like this so I can read the RPO codes? How do I tell if it has the original engine? What is the max you would pay for this (just so I don't get burned)? I am driving the car tommorow and I have a problem with patients (I'm an impulse buyer)!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
The build sheet can be on the gas tank, behind the dash, stuffed in the frame rail..I even found one jammed in the strut rod bracket..Info. for numbers, etc. can be found in the "Black Book"
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...KJL10L726J8NPF
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...KJL10L726J8NPF
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Others can correct me but I doubt it matters at all if the numbers match or anything. These are the era cars to buy because they are affordable and that leaves you money to fix stuff like worn seats and to upgrade engines. Engines usually don't match because the original has detonated. In this years case because more power was wanted- better. So if the engine isn't original your money ahead prolly 
The black book isn't going to do this guy much good since he wants it and he wants it now!
The black book isn't going to do this guy much good since he wants it and he wants it now!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 2,845
Likes: 2
From: Apex NC
You probably don't really want to hear this, since I remember that "gotta have one" impulse myself, but here goes.
Paint on a Corvette is expensive. For a nice paint job, you're looking at $3k to $5k. U-joints don't whine, that's usually a problem with the differential itself. Not cheap to fix unless you know how to work on one yourself. Seat covers are not expensive, a few hundred $$, and a top dash pad is in the $300 or so. Weatherstrip is not cheap, and can be challenging to install correctly. If I were estimating the amount of outlay needed to get this car in good driving, good looking shape, I'd figure on $6k to $8k or so.
Given that really nice '77's can be had in the $10k to $12k range with excellent paint and no mechanical issues, I'd be hard pressed to give more than $6k for this car. But that's just my opinion. I've been through the "buy a fixer-upper" thing with my '69 and really don't have the stomach to do another one. In the end you end up with way more in the car than if you'd have bought a nicer but more expensive car at the outset.
Paint on a Corvette is expensive. For a nice paint job, you're looking at $3k to $5k. U-joints don't whine, that's usually a problem with the differential itself. Not cheap to fix unless you know how to work on one yourself. Seat covers are not expensive, a few hundred $$, and a top dash pad is in the $300 or so. Weatherstrip is not cheap, and can be challenging to install correctly. If I were estimating the amount of outlay needed to get this car in good driving, good looking shape, I'd figure on $6k to $8k or so.
Given that really nice '77's can be had in the $10k to $12k range with excellent paint and no mechanical issues, I'd be hard pressed to give more than $6k for this car. But that's just my opinion. I've been through the "buy a fixer-upper" thing with my '69 and really don't have the stomach to do another one. In the end you end up with way more in the car than if you'd have bought a nicer but more expensive car at the outset.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 3
From: I KNOW JESUS... HE'S MY GARDENER
Originally Posted by Techno
Others can correct me but I doubt it matters at all if the numbers match or anything.
Matching #'s on a '77? WGARA?
Last edited by SkunkApe; Jul 18, 2005 at 10:52 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 3
From: I KNOW JESUS... HE'S MY GARDENER
Originally Posted by big_G
I bet no one gave a rats *** about matching numbers in 1957, or 1963, or even 1967....just a thought
We will have long run out of fossil fuel before a "matching #'s" '77 is worth enough to worry about (the matching #'s).
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: Ashland, Kentucky
Thanks for your replies! The guy was asking 7500 for it and he came down to 6500 pretty fast. He also kept saying it was an L82 and it had the L82 badges. But I beleive an L82 is designated by an X in the
VIN not an L and not for sure but I thought they had an alum. intake, this was cast iron. Anyway I passed because it was to R-O-U-G-H. I am going to try to save more money and join the Gen3 family later. Thanks
VIN not an L and not for sure but I thought they had an alum. intake, this was cast iron. Anyway I passed because it was to R-O-U-G-H. I am going to try to save more money and join the Gen3 family later. Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10,628
Likes: 132
From: Duvall, WA
Originally Posted by SkunkApe
Matching #'s on a '77? WGARA?
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
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From: Lenoir City Tennessee
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by 95polo
Thanks for your replies! The guy was asking 7500 for it and he came down to 6500 pretty fast. He also kept saying it was an L82 and it had the L82 badges. But I beleive an L82 is designated by an X in the
VIN not an L and not for sure but I thought they had an alum. intake, this was cast iron. Anyway I passed because it was to R-O-U-G-H. I am going to try to save more money and join the Gen3 family later. Thanks
VIN not an L and not for sure but I thought they had an alum. intake, this was cast iron. Anyway I passed because it was to R-O-U-G-H. I am going to try to save more money and join the Gen3 family later. Thanks