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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 07:53 PM
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Default Power Window Question

Neither of my power windows works at this point. The passenger side went out 2-3 years ago & the driver side stopped working a few months ago- it used to stop working but if I hit the door panel it would fire up again for awhile.

I've taken the driver side door panel off & cleaned all wiring contacts but no luck. I've tapped on the motor but that hasn't worked either. I can hear a click at the motor when I hit the window switch which tells me that the motor is getting power. I'm thinking I'll need to replace the motor at this point but was wondering if there are any other opinions.

If I replace the motor(s) what's the degree of difficulty and what else needs to come out to get it done? Also, what's my best source on the net for a motor & what should I steer away from? Thanks in advance.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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First try jumpering the motor to see if it works. Usually its the wires or a wire that runs through the door jamb. Constant flexing breaks them bit by bit until the wire that used to be a very large high amp wire is a teeny little thing.
The clicking motor means it is getting power not that it isn't. Its a good sign of the door jamb wiring, or its shot

The connector on the motor can also be a problem but the jamb wiring usually goes. Old and loose connector. Either way jumping the motor itself will tell you if the motor is bad.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 10:40 PM
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Must be power window month. Both quit working. Suppose I better get out the old test lite because it is no fun in the rain without the side curtains. I could understand the humor... but someone else doesn't. Good luck with your repairs..
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 10:43 PM
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my wires broke in the door jamb...... i spliced in a 12" piece of wire to make some slack and would be easier to fix if it breaks again.....

b
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 10:45 PM
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Not too sure about a 69 but on my 77 and 79 only three small bolts
hold the motor in. It' a little tight space to work in, bolt heads face
towards the outside of car so it's like working backwards. A couple of
the bolts can be easy to get to if you have a ratching box-end.
Also might be easier to test motor out of the car.


**NOTE: Make sure to brace/block the window actuator and windows up so that once you pull the motor the window does not come down on your hands. HTH
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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Thanks guys- the motor DID work when I tested it so it's just a matter of tracing back through the wiring. Funny because the wires look almost virgin w/ no crimps or bends but it's gotta be there somewhere. A new wiring set up is about $12 per side including connectors.

This saved me the cost of a new motor so I appreciate the help. By the way, two estimates for labor only to replace both motors were $300 & $400- $100 an hour at one shop! That's when I decided to do this myself.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Les
Thanks guys- the motor DID work when I tested it so it's just a matter of tracing back through the wiring. Funny because the wires look almost virgin w/ no crimps or bends but it's gotta be there somewhere. A new wiring set up is about $12 per side including connectors.

This saved me the cost of a new motor so I appreciate the help. By the way, two estimates for labor only to replace both motors were $300 & $400- $100 an hour at one shop! That's when I decided to do this myself.

Say....Where did you buy the new wiring set up? I need to replace the wiring on my 75....

Thanks,
BLVette75
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 06:46 PM
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I haven't bought it yet because I may be able to splice the bad section. I looked around in the supporting vendors here yesterday and found it in a couple of places. I think it was Ecklers and Zip but I'm not sure.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 07:05 PM
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Thanks... I will check it out.

BLVette75
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Les
Thanks guys- the motor DID work when I tested it so it's just a matter of tracing back through the wiring.
Les

So you have the motors out? Try running them out of the door. All connections incl. switches, circuit breaker need to be cleaned- contact cleaner is best. (WD-40 works)
Someone mentioned cleaning inside the motor to fix his. Check circuit breaker.

Separately check motor bracket mounts- there is one that normally gets broken. When it worked if the door flexed- that & a rattle is the sign.
A repair piece is available.

Last edited by Ganey; Aug 13, 2005 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 08:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by BLVette75
Say....Where did you buy the new wiring set up? I need to replace the wiring on my 75....
BLVette75
You can get a door wiring set from Corvette America also if that helps you in your search.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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Ganey,
I'm gonna work on one side at a time & right now it's the driver side. While messing around I found that the window will go up only by jumping the motor but it will go down via the switch once it's up. That tells me the problem is in the blue wire (or the side of the switch it goes to) so I'll check those out first.

The door does flex when the motor runs so you're right- I have a problem w/ the mount too. But I just wanna get it working in time for an event next weekend- if so, I'll fix the rest later. Thanks.
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