Winterization question - gasoline stabilizers
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Ocean Gate, New Jersey
Winterization question - gasoline stabilizers
I intend to take my car on a 25 mile trip every 3-4 weeks for the next six months (starting in November) in order to keep it in shape. Should I keep the gas tank full (with stabilizer) or run it with about 5 gallons in the tank to refresh the fuel frequently during the winter? What do you recommend?
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
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If you're intending to drive it over the winter because you think it will 'benefit' the car or the car 'needs it' - forget it. It does more harm than good and the car will do just fine without driving it.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,545
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From: 406ci SB, AFR 180 Heads - 490 HP @5,600 RPM 529 lb-ft @ 4,100 RPM
Mine are in a heated garage all winter, parked on carpet to protect the undercarage from and dampness that may come off the cool cement floor. I maintain about 50 degrees unless I'm working in the shop. I do not use any fuel stabilizer, but do start them every 2 or 3 weeks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
Stabil is an excellent product. My car isn't on the road
yet so I use it. I use it in the fuel for my lawn mower and chain saws since they some times go 2-3 months without useage. The chain saw has sat for as long as 18 months and started up and ran fine.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Keep the tank full, use stabil and drive it if you want to, but not in the snow!
Up here in the northland we park em from November to April. No running no moving, nothing. I do change the oil bebore storage tho.
BTW gas starts to go bad in about 2 weeks. If you are not using the full tank before then, use a stabilizer
Up here in the northland we park em from November to April. No running no moving, nothing. I do change the oil bebore storage tho.
BTW gas starts to go bad in about 2 weeks. If you are not using the full tank before then, use a stabilizer
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
If you're intending to drive it over the winter because you think it will 'benefit' the car or the car 'needs it' - forget it. It does more harm than good and the car will do just fine without driving it.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
Gasoline itself is stable for at least a year. If you leave your gas cap off, some additives might evaporate (but I doubt you do this). Filling the thank will reduce the area for condensate to form.
IMO driving the car every so often will at least keep the battery charged and rotate the tires. I drive every chance I can in the winter on dry days.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
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From: Surrey
Mine sits all winter (6 months) without being run & starts fine every spring & I don't use any stabiliser. However, for longer periods I'd use it as I've had the "joys" of stripping out & cleaning up carbs that have had old gas turn into a thick, slimy mess that clogged everything up.
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2005
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I agree. Two months or less seems to be fine for the gas. I would keep the tank full, though, to help prevent condensation in the tank from turning to rust. It seems to take about four months before the gas starts to turn to "varnish" in our climate (New Mexico).
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 194
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From: Hamilton Ontario
Where I live I store anywhere from 4-5 months, depending on mother nature. Fuel stabilizer is a must under those circumstances. Anyone who doesn't use it for those extended periods is playing with fire.
If you are going to drive as often as you say, you will not need stabilizer, but you will have to keep the tank full. That will keep any condensation from building up in your tank and rusting the top of the gas tank. A 25 mile drive is great for the car as it allows it to come up to temperature and avoids any condensation build up in the engine. As mentioned in Mike Ward's post, just starting a car, or giving it a short run, is a bad thing.
In reality your car isn't in storage. Sounds like you plan on driving it as much this winter as I do all summer.
Cheers.
If you are going to drive as often as you say, you will not need stabilizer, but you will have to keep the tank full. That will keep any condensation from building up in your tank and rusting the top of the gas tank. A 25 mile drive is great for the car as it allows it to come up to temperature and avoids any condensation build up in the engine. As mentioned in Mike Ward's post, just starting a car, or giving it a short run, is a bad thing.
In reality your car isn't in storage. Sounds like you plan on driving it as much this winter as I do all summer.
Cheers.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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Originally Posted by Mark PittPayne
Where I live I store anywhere from 4-5 months, depending on mother nature. Fuel stabilizer is a must under those circumstances. Anyone who doesn't use it for those extended periods is playing with fire.
If you are going to drive as often as you say, you will not need stabilizer, but you will have to keep the tank full. That will keep any condensation from building up in your tank and rusting the top of the gas tank. A 25 mile drive is great for the car as it allows it to come up to temperature and avoids any condensation build up in the engine. As mentioned in Mike Ward's post, just starting a car, or giving it a short run, is a bad thing.
If you are going to drive as often as you say, you will not need stabilizer, but you will have to keep the tank full. That will keep any condensation from building up in your tank and rusting the top of the gas tank. A 25 mile drive is great for the car as it allows it to come up to temperature and avoids any condensation build up in the engine. As mentioned in Mike Ward's post, just starting a car, or giving it a short run, is a bad thing.
If someone is worried about condensation, the engine will be the LAST part of the car to suffer. The oil will cling to interior surfaces for years, long after the outer unprotected surfaces show signs of rust.
The best way to INDUCE corrosion is to bring a cold car into a warm garage -same effect as a cold beer on a warm day. Each time you drive your car on a winters day and bring it back into the storage area, you will induce a new cycle of condensation- so why do it?
The best thing you can do is:
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring
Disregard all the crap about putting it on blocks too- this just puts unnatural strain on the suspension bushings.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Originally Posted by Z-man
Gasoline itself is stable for at least a year. If you leave your gas cap off, some additives might evaporate (but I doubt you do this). Filling the thank will reduce the area for condensate to form.
IMO driving the car every so often will at least keep the battery charged and rotate the tires. I drive every chance I can in the winter on dry days.
Varnish starts to form pretty quickly. Doesn't matter for the tank, but messes up the carbs.
Ever taken apart a carb on a car that was driven daily? It has varnish already!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Mike's suggestions are good ones (last one is optional in my book):
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring
On the other hand ...
A car doesn't suffer greatly from going for a short drive from time to
time. If the engine/tranny reach operating temp, then it is fine.
Condensation ? In the winter ? Where it is cold and the relative
humidity is like 1% ??
OK - maybe if you run a humifier in the house and the air gets
pumped out to the "heated" garage. My garage under stays cold
and dry all winter long, but once the ground thaws - big moisture.
Salt - the #1 culprit. Gladly, our town does not use any salt.
Only 2 roads in our town are state routes and thus salted.
I plan on enjoying my vette during the winter, but only on cold dry days - and only on the unsalted roads.
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring
On the other hand ...
A car doesn't suffer greatly from going for a short drive from time to
time. If the engine/tranny reach operating temp, then it is fine.
Condensation ? In the winter ? Where it is cold and the relative
humidity is like 1% ??
OK - maybe if you run a humifier in the house and the air gets
pumped out to the "heated" garage. My garage under stays cold
and dry all winter long, but once the ground thaws - big moisture.
Salt - the #1 culprit. Gladly, our town does not use any salt.
Only 2 roads in our town are state routes and thus salted.
I plan on enjoying my vette during the winter, but only on cold dry days - and only on the unsalted roads.
Last edited by NHvette; Sep 28, 2005 at 06:13 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 194
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From: Hamilton Ontario
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
You've misquoted or misunderstood me. A car does not need or benefit from any type of driving at all, short drive or long drive.
I too believe in putting it away and leaving it. I was referring to rusting out his engine and not needing stabilizer if he is going to drive it. The rest of the car is alway subect to damage from cold air to warm air transitions. Cheers.
Mark
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
If you're intending to drive it over the winter because you think it will 'benefit' the car or the car 'needs it' - forget it. It does more harm than good and the car will do just fine without driving it.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
I agree with both of these. I wouldn't worry about regular drives. I would just store it as dry as possible, if concrete put old rugs under the car, a light car cover, remove the battery and forget gas stablizer. Over a winter it won't make a difference.
I do like to spray things down with WD 40. It prevents corrosion on aluminum parts while sitting.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,056
Likes: 99
From: Southeast, Tennessee
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
If you're intending to drive it over the winter because you think it will 'benefit' the car or the car 'needs it' - forget it. It does more harm than good and the car will do just fine without driving it.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
Gas stabilant is not required for periods less than a year.
just my $.02
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Originally Posted by srs244
i disagree completely. at about 60 days gasoline will start to break down. ..........no one would consider storing the fuel without stableilzer. it costs so little to be more comfortable that it will be ok when you need it, than not to use it.
just my $.02
just my $.02
If 60 days was really the limit, we'd all be in trouble. Most of the gas in our daily drivers and at the gas pumps is older than that.
Adding stabilizer might make you feel better but it really doesn't do anything beneficial for the car. It's your money. I use my money to buy more beer. That makes me feel much better.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,930
Likes: 11
From: AnyTown NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The best thing you can do is:
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring
Disregard all the crap about putting it on blocks too- this just puts unnatural strain on the suspension bushings.
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring
Disregard all the crap about putting it on blocks too- this just puts unnatural strain on the suspension bushings.
These are the same steps I use every winter. However I do have a heated garage with a race deck floor. The only step I don't use is wash it....It's never needed it. I do use a detail spray between waxing/polishing cycles and I do throw a flannel cover over it b4 kissing it goodbye till spring. Never had a problem.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Montreal Quebec
What is an automatic tender ?( in reference to the battery)
Mike Ward quoted:
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring
Mike Ward quoted:
fill the gas tank
wash the car
clean the interior
pump up the tires to max. indicated pressure
change the oil and filter
disconnect the battery and attach an automatic tender
kiss it goodbye until spring