Convertible Top Replacement
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
Likes: 4
From: Smile, it's just the internet.
My efforts over the course of that weekend included removing, cleaning, rustproofing, painting, reinstalling, and aligning the frame. I also installed my harness bar and made at least one run to the hardware store for nuts/bolts.
The actual fabric work only took a day, IIRC. The frame work took another day.
The actual fabric work only took a day, IIRC. The frame work took another day.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Got the old top off today. The old frame is in decent shape with the exception of the front bow. It had surface rust. I was actually really scared it was going to be a lot worse than that. It was mostly around and under the weather strip. So we cleaned and prepped the area. We brushed on rustoleum primer to kill all the rust. Let that set and then I put about four coats of flat black on the areas affected by the rust. Turned out pretty good. Then I put in new tack strips on the front bow. I pulled the second bow out and cleaned the wasted tack strip out and pulled out the padding for that bow. I started to install the tack strip on this bow, but let me tell you, it is a tight fit. How in the world did you guys go about fitting the tack strip in the bow? I guess I could spread the sides of the bow and install the tack strip and then clamp the sides of the bow back down.
If you have done this, please explain what your technique was for this operation.
If you have done this, please explain what your technique was for this operation.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I have the 2 front bows and the header done. Now I am trying to get the rear bow that has tack strip all the way across. First of all I have to get the old tack strip out. It is a mess and seems to be held on by huge staples. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Someday I'll tackle mine but one thing I'm set on or decided I definetly would do is to take off the frame and have the whole thing powder coated first. nothing ruins a nice new top is to see the frame all scraped up and fugly when it's down stowed in the down position. I finally decided to wait till next year and pull the engine/ tranny/ front suspension/ convertible top and while the engine gets rebuilt I'll send out everything for powdercoating, that includes the fan shroud, all the brackets, A-arms, drag link, convertible top frame, etc re-ceramic coat the headers etc. It'll all go back in with a TKO-600 
All in all less than $200 for all the powder coating and really sets the car off. My .02.
All in all less than $200 for all the powder coating and really sets the car off. My .02.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I think a powder coated frame would be a great addition. I should have done this powder coating a long time ago. I did have a few places that needed some attention. The front header bow had rust under the tack strip and so did the main rear one just above the window. I cleaned both of them and they are primed and being painted. Powder coating should eliminate this.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
Likes: 4
From: Smile, it's just the internet.
Eddie, are you using the fiber or plastic tack strips? I replaced all of mine with fiber ones 'cause I heard that the plastic ones didn't grip the staples too well over time. The strips were a really tight fit. I used a hammer and dowel to seat them in the channels after I got them started with a pair of vice-grips. IIRC, I also chamfered the edges to give an easier time starting the strip.
Sounds like your frame was about the same as mine. I also had some rust at the base of the vertical window channel.
Sounds like your frame was about the same as mine. I also had some rust at the base of the vertical window channel.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by CGGorman
Eddie, are you using the fiber or plastic tack strips? I replaced all of mine with fiber ones 'cause I heard that the plastic ones didn't grip the staples too well over time. The strips were a really tight fit. I used a hammer and dowel to seat them in the channels after I got them started with a pair of vice-grips. IIRC, I also chamfered the edges to give an easier time starting the strip.
Sounds like your frame was about the same as mine. I also had some rust at the base of the vertical window channel.
Sounds like your frame was about the same as mine. I also had some rust at the base of the vertical window channel.
My new tack strips are the fiber type and you are right they are a really tight fit. WOW!!!. My thumbs are sore now. I wound up using a pair of pliers to squeeze the strip into the groove. The rear bow I was able to force the 2 strips into the groove with my thumbs. Then I mounted the pads from the rear bow to the front bow on both sides. I then mounted the straps on the rear bow. I got the top mounted on the rear bow. I finally got the weather strip into its groove on the rear bow. That was probably the hardest part as far as I am concerned. I still have a ways to go but it is going to look really good.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Here are a few pics of my slowly coming along Stayfast top. I am only working on it a few hours a night. I have a question for you guys that have done this. Looking at the bottom pic, there is a little bit of slack in the top between the 2nd and 3rd bows. Should I pull this slack out toward the rear or pull it tighter at the front. I am thinking it would be easier to pull it to the front. Just wanting to post an update on my top replacement and seek a little advice.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
John,
The top is from Al Knoch. The material is called Stayfast. My wife said it is going to look like a Tux on the vette when it is all done. Hopefully Saturday I can roll it out of the garage and get some pics in the daylight. I think maybe tomorrow night I should be done with the installation.
The top is from Al Knoch. The material is called Stayfast. My wife said it is going to look like a Tux on the vette when it is all done. Hopefully Saturday I can roll it out of the garage and get some pics in the daylight. I think maybe tomorrow night I should be done with the installation.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
Likes: 4
From: Smile, it's just the internet.
Eddie, it looks to me like the front corners need pulled in tighter. My top was vinyl, so I don't know how the stayfast reacts... Does it have the cables above the window channels installed yet?
I really like the look of that fabric! Wish I had known about it before I did mine in vinyl... Is it like the cotton they used on older tents?
I really like the look of that fabric! Wish I had known about it before I did mine in vinyl... Is it like the cotton they used on older tents?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
I got my stayfast top from Al Knoch at the Corvette Expo in Houston. The stayfast top is more expensive than vinyl, it was about $300 as opposed to $180 for vinyl. One really nice thing about the stayfast top is that it doesn't show wrinkles after being folded up like vinyl does.
Your doing a good job Eddie 70. Keep up the good work.
Orville
Your doing a good job Eddie 70. Keep up the good work.
Orville
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
Likes: 313
From: Lake Norman NC
looks good...i think your on the right track..once everything is pulled and things will tighten. That stayfast is like canvas, so its not going to stretch like vinyl. Eddie, if you don't care, after your finished, could we get some pics of the back window.? i'd like to see if its the large back window like on the original style vinyl tops. My father did his 74 in a canvas material, and it had a small window. I think i'm going with a stayfast black top this winter myself.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,131
Likes: 4
From: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
Very nice play by play and pics. I have a feeling this job is in my future as well. Previous owner had a new top installed on my car but the frame was never cleaned up and the old weather strip never replaced. Was thinking about powdercoating the top frame too, but aren't there some plastic bushings in the frame that could be a problem with the heat required for PC? Wouldn't the frame have to be un-riveted, dis-assembled and PC'd piece by piece? I'll probably cruise with my hard top or just on sunny days until I get the soft top back in order.
I'd be interested in borrowing the video as well when the next guy's done with it.
Thanks again, Eddie, for sharing!
I'd be interested in borrowing the video as well when the next guy's done with it.
Thanks again, Eddie, for sharing!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I am done with my top. It was a lot work and actually enjoyable. I can now say I did do it myself.
